It seems that all of a sudden, numerous lawns in Georgia are turning white. Well it is not snow, nor is it left over cotton from last fall. The “cottony” appearance is due to the presence of a weed named facelis (Facelis retusa).
Facelis
Facelis, also called annual trampweed, is a winter annual member of the Aster family that reproduces by wind-blown seed. This weed reaches heights of 4 to 6 inches and has alternate wedge-shaped leaves with a small tooth at the tip. The upper leaf surface is green, while the lower leaf surface is densely gray due to the presence of leaf hairs. Flowers are very inconspicuous; however, seed have soft, white bristle-like hair. With severe infestations the lawn becomes white when seed are being released from the plant. Typically facelis is found in lawns with a low density of turfgrasses, as well as on open, droughty, low fertility sandy or clayey soils.
Facelis actually germinates in the fall and late winter months, produces seed in late April to June and then dies. May is not the preferred time to control facelis, as the weed is essentially in the process of dying.
There has been very little research done on controlling this weed in turfgrasses. Additionally, this weed does not appear on herbicide labels. However, herbicides that contain 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba and triclopyr or atrazine applied during the mid-winter through early spring months should control facelis.
Since this weed is found on droughty, low-fertility sites, try to improve the turfgrass density through liming, fertilization and irrigation.
Ground bee nests are usually in groups – image taken by Diane Stephens, Houston County Master Gardener
Ground or Digger Bees Attack Lawns
The first sign of ground or digger bees in lawns may be strange little mounds of soil with a hole nearby. The ground bees will be flying over this area. Ground bees are solitary bees that dig and nest in the ground. These bees live one per hole but there may be many holes in an area creating ground bee communities. There are many types of ground bees that vary in color and range from one-half to three-quarter inch in length. Some types of solitary wasps live like this as well.
Female ground bees dig nests in the ground up to six or so inches deep in which to raise young. The bees pile earth around the sides of the hole. These bees can be very active in March and April. The female ground bee stocks the nest with pollen and nectar to feed the young bees. Some solitary wasps stock their nests with insects.
Ground bees typically cause little problem. The digging should not be enough to damage the lawn. The bees are not very aggressive and probably will not sting. You should be able to work and mow grass around them with few problems. People that are allergic to bee stings may want to be cautious when working around the bees.
Close up of ground bee nests – image taken by Diane Stephens, Houston County Master Gardener
We do not recommend chemical controls for ground bees or wasps. These bees can be beneficial – serving to pollinate plants or destroy harmful insects. They will probably only be around for four to six weeks and then disappear until next year.
If you must control them, use cultural controls.
Ground bees like dry soils. Water the soil when bees first become active. Apply one inch of water once a week if it does not rain.
Ground bees nest in dry areas where the grass is thin. Find and correct the problems making the turf thin. This may involve soil sampling, irrigation, soil aeration or other practices.
Find ways to thicken the turf in these areas to reduce ground bee problems. Know the needs of the turf grass and meet them!
In areas that will not grow grass, mulch the area.
If you must use a pesticide, watch during the day to see where the holes are located. After dark, dust these areas with carbaryl (sold under the name Sevin and other names) dust. A dust insecticide should cling to the bee’s body better than a spray. Keep people and pets out of the area while it is being treated.
The bees are not generally harmful and pesticides are toxic. The cure may be worse than the problem. Try to put up with the bees if you can. These bees may be difficult to control and may return year to year. If you have ongoing problems with them, follow all recommendations very carefully. See this site where I found much of this information http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html
There is one large caution in connection with ground bees and wasps. Ground bees are not aggressive but can look like other bees and wasps that are very aggressive and harmful. Make absolutely certain that you are not dealing with a yellow jacket or bumble bee nest. Both of these insects can literally cover you with stings very quickly. They can also have extremely large nests in Georgia. If you ever get into trouble with these, run until you escape them. Running inside may help. Do not stop to swat, roll on the ground, etc.
One difference between ground bees and other bees or wasps is that ground bees live by themselves and make many holes in the ground. Yellow jackets and bumble bees have many insects per hole. Use the following from Dr. Will Hudson, UGA Entomologist, as a guide for identification.
Many holes with one 1 bee per hole = solitary bees (like ground bees) that sting only as a last resort.
One hole, many bees = social bees (like yellow jackets and bumble bees). Keep away! These are non-reproductive workers that will sacrifice themselves in defense of the nest.
For insects other than ground bees, you may want to hire a pest control company or a wildlife removal company. They should have the training and equipment to do the job properly.
Please share this information with others in the landscape industry. For more information:
Phenoxy herbicide damage to a willow oak tree. Image credit: Paul Pugliese.
Paul Pugliese is the agriculture & natural resources agent for the University of Georgia Extension office in Bartow County.
An herbicide designed to kill weeds in turfgrass can also kill neighboring trees and shrubs.
Herbicides in the phenoxy chemical class provide broadleaf weed control in lawns, pastures and hay forages. Some of the more common chemicals in this class include 2,4-D; MCPP; dicamba; clopyralid; and triclopyr.
Safe for animals but not always for trees and shrubs
These chemicals are considered very safe and leave very few toxicity concerns for animals. In fact, many of these herbicides are labeled for pasture use and allow for livestock to continue grazing without any restrictions.
Phenoxy herbicide damage to a willow oak tree. Image credit: Paul Pugliese.
However, pesticide labels should always be read and followed to determine if any special precautions should be taken for specific site uses.
Phenoxy herbicides provide selective weed control, which means they control many broadleaf weeds without causing damage to grass. Of course, each product is a little different and some are labeled for very specific turfgrass types, depending on their tolerance.
The label should be checked for application to a specific lawn type (tall fescue, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, etc.). If the turfgrass isn’t on the label, don’t assume the herbicide can be applied to all lawns.
Unfortunately, phenoxy herbicides don’t discriminate between dandelion weeds or any other broadleaf plants, including many trees and shrubs. So, it’s very important to take extra precautions when applying these herbicides near landscaped areas with ornamental plants.
Wind and rain can spread herbicides
Consider the potential for drift damage to nearby plants and avoid spraying herbicides on a windy day. There is also the potential for movement of these herbicides through runoff and leaching in the soil. This is why the product label usually warns against spraying within the root zone of trees and shrubs and never exceeding the maximum application rates listed on the label.
Many homeowners and landscapers often overlook these label precautions. The information that is contained on the label can seem somewhat vague to inexperienced applicators.
The biggest misconception concerns where the root zone of a tree or shrub exists. The roots of mature trees and shrubs actually extend well beyond the drip line of the canopy. Research shows that absorption roots may extend as much as two to three times the canopy width.
Consider spot-spraying to target individual weeds rather than broadcasting applications across the entire lawn. And never exceed the labeled rate.
In landscapes that contain mature trees and shrubs, phenoxy herbicides may not be the best choice for weed control. These herbicides may be best reserved for wide-open spaces such as athletic fields, parks and pastures where tree roots are at a safe distance.
The high potential for herbicide damage to trees is another great reason to protect tree roots by providing a mulch zone that extends well beyond the drip line of the canopy. If you’re not trying to grow a manicured lawn underneath a tree, then there is no reason to apply phenoxy herbicides there for weed control.
Use the right herbicide for the job
Another way to avoid potential damage is to rely less on phenoxy herbicides. Other classes of herbicides have less potential to affect the roots of nearby trees and shrubs. Take the time to identify your weeds and choose a more selective herbicide rather than combination products that usually contain multiple chemicals in the phenoxy class.
Many pre-emergent herbicides can prevent weed problems in lawns. The key is to apply them at the correct time in spring and fall. Applying too early or too late often provides inadequate weed control and requires additional herbicide applications. Rotating pre-emergent herbicide classes will avoid the potential for resistant weeds. Also, be sure to apply water to the area according to the pre-emergent herbicide’s label to activate it in the soil.
For more information about the effects of phenoxy herbicides on landscape trees and shrubs, view the UGA Center for Urban Agriculture webinar at ugaurbanag.com/webinars. For assistance with weed identification and specific herbicide recommendations, contact your local UGA Extension office at 1-800-ASK-UGA1 or visit www.Georgiaturf.com.
Rank growth of winter annual weeds occurs at the same time that warm-season turfgrasses begin to green-up, or emerge from winter dormancy. These weeds compete with the turfgrass for soil moisture, nutrients, growing space, but most importantly for sunlight. Warm- season turfgrasses, with the exception of St. Augustinegrass, are not highly shade tolerant. Thick mats of winter weeds will shade the turfgrass at a time that root carbohydrates are being exhausted by the green-up process. Additionally, thick mats of winter weeds shade the turfgrass and decrease photosynthesis. The net result is a weakened, or less dense stand of turfgrass, that is readily infested by summer annuals such as crabgrass.
Purple Deadnettle, Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft. Bugwood.org
Preemergence herbicides
Research has shown that the preemergence herbicides, such as Balan, TeamPro, Surflan, XL, Ronstar and many others, that are used for summer annual grass control do not significantly affect the spring green-up of labeled warm-season turfgrasses. A possible exception is Pennant (metolachlor). There have been some significant delays in the green-up of hybrid bermudagrass with Pennant applications to dormant turf.
Postemergence herbicides
The situation with postemergence herbicides is dramatically different. Most postemergence herbicides will slightly delay the early spring growth of warm-season turfgrasses. These delays can range from a few days to a few weeks.
In the event of an overdose (an extremely high rate), delays in spring green-up can occur for a longer period of time. Usually, the turfgrass will completely recover within two to six weeks with proper cultural management.
With the exception of Image, most postemergence herbicides can safely be used during green-up. Some slight delay in green-up may be noted; however, this effect can be lessened by:
Using the lowest recommended rate
Insuring that the application equipment is properly calibrated
Using spot treatments
Following all recommended cultural practices, fertility, irrigation, etc. to promote rapid spring growth.
The use of postemergence herbicides should be avoided during the spring green-up of turfgrasses that have been poorly managed, or that are experiencing winter injury problems. Properly maintained, healthy, vigorous turfgrasses are more tolerant to postemergence herbicides than turfgrasses that have not been properly maintained or are suffering from winter injury.
Some postemergence herbicides state on the label “Do not apply during spring green-up.” Obviously, these products should not be used at this time of year. However, the use of other postemergence herbicides is warranted if there is a severe weed infestation on properly maintained turfgrasses. The slight delay in green-up from the use of these herbicides is more than compensated for by the removal of competition that dense mats of weeds exert on the turfgrass.
As always – read and follow all pesticide labeling directions!
Fire ants remain the most prevalent outdoor ant pest in most areas of the southern U.S. Throughout the U.S. we estimate the annual cost of fire ant control at over $6 billion. But the cost of this pest goes far beyond measurable dollars. Fire ants reduce the recreational value of our parks and backyards, disrupt wildlife populations, and send thousands to emergency rooms each year from their painful stings.
So as we get ready to enter fire ant season, it may be a good time to bring yourself and your staff up to speed on fire ant control. Many people are surprised to learn that fire ants are not an especially difficult pest to manage, once the biology and control tools are understood.
One of the best places to learn about fire ant management is the eXtension fire ant website, a place where the best information about fire ant is assembled by Extension agencies throughout the South. This information was recently summarized and presented in an informative webinar by Dr. Fudd Graham, fire ant specialist with Auburn University. Dr. Graham focuses on fire ant biology and use of baits for fire ant control.
It’s worth knowing something about how fire ant baits work because they are the most economical, ecologically friendly, and effective control methods for fire ants. The webinar will provide you or your technician with an hour of training that should pay for itself many times over.
Mike Merchant is an entomology specialist for Texas AgriLife Extension. He works with pest management professionals, school facilities managers, extension volunteers, researchers and other extension professionals. His areas of specialty center on research on insects affecting man including spiders, scorpions, fire ants, termites and others. His program also focuses on training school maintenance professionals in principles of integrated pest management (IPM). His goal is to make schools healthier, cleaner places to study and live.
Clint Waltz and Patrick McCullough, Turfgrass Specialist and Weed Specialist, University of Georgia
Annual bluegrass – Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft., Bugwood.org
Annual bluegrass (Poa annua L.) is a troublesome winter annual weed in residential turf. Compared to most turfgrasses, annual bluegrass has a lighter green color, coarser leaf texture, and produces unsightly seedheads.
Annual bluegrass seed germinates throughout the late-summer and early-fall once soil temperatures drop below 70° F. Seedlings grow and mature in fall, overwinter in a vegetative state, and produce seed in spring. A second germination can occur in late-winter as soil temperatures rise and the days become longer.
Annual bluegrass is a prolific seed producer and individual plants may produce hundreds of viable seed, even when closely mowed. Annual bluegrass flowers over several months in spring and produces seed that may remain dormant in soil for years before germinating. Annual bluegrass often dies from summer stresses but may survive in protected sites that receive irrigation. Controlling annual bluegrass in mid- to late-spring in residential lawns can be difficult.
Annual bluegrass can produce seeds even when closely mowed. Image – John Kaminiski
Control in bermudagrass and zoysiagrass
Up until mid-February (when the bermudagrass was fully dormant) applying a glyphosate containing product (e.g. Roundup) was an option for postemergence annual bluegrass control. Even then, care must be taken not to “overdose” the weed and harm the bermudagrass. Applicators commonly over-spray the weed with glyphosate and some herbicide moves deep into the bermudagrass canopy where it contacts green bermudagrass stolons near the ground. Any green part of the plant in the bermudagrass can absorb the glyphosate which can damage the plant.
It is now too late and risky to consider spraying glyphosate to control annual bluegrass in dormant bermudagrass. While bermudagrass may still look “completely” dormant it is starting to greenup and the application of glyphosate during greenup can damage the turf. Do not apply glyphosate to dormant grass of any type other than bermudagrass since other grasses never really go completely dormant and may be damaged by the herbicide.
There are a few selective herbicidal options to control annual bluegrass at this point in the season. In bermudagrass and zoysiagrass, if the annual bluegrass population is bad enough the best option is treating with either Revolver (foramsulfuron) or Monument (trifloxysulfuron).
Control in centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass
Neither of these herbicides is labeled for use on centipedegrass or St. Augustinegrass. In centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, atrazine containing products are an option but large annual bluegrass grass plants are difficult to control with a single application.
The weed is an annual cool-season grassy weed that will die-out in a couple months as temperatures warm. For now, having patience and tolerance maybe the best option. Plan for next winter and spring. Begin with good turfgrass cultivation this summer. For example:
Deep and infrequent irrigation encourages turfgrass root development which improves the ability of the lawngrass to compete with weeds.
• Identify and alleviate soil compaction since annual bluegrass prefers compacted soils. For rapid recovery and improved vigor, core aerifications should be performed during the active growth period of warm-season turfgrasses.
• Mow the lawn at the appropriate height for the grass species. Lower mowing heights may stress turf and reduce its ability to compete with annual bluegrass. For proper mowing height recommendations, visit www.GeorgiaTurf.com
• Lastly, begin a preemergence herbicide program in late-summer to help control the seed that were deposited this season.
Landscapers can help homeowners with controlling annual bluegrass now and planning a healthier lawn to prevent annual bluegrass next year.
2015 Sod Producers’ annual survey examines inventory and price
Clint Waltz, UGA Turf Specialist
In November 2014, the Georgia Urban Ag Council conducted their 21st consecutive survey of sod producers. The purpose of the survey was to determine inventory levels and projected price changes for spring 2015. The following is a survey overview. You can find the complete survey online here.
Survey overview:
Supply of warm-season turfgrasses is low, regardless of turfgrass or grower type.
The delivered price for all grasses is expected to increase.
Grass prices are at historic levels.
2015 continues an eight year trend of increasing average prices for certified grass.
Freight rates per mile shipped to Atlanta, or within 100 miles of the farm, will increase.
Growers that report adding a fuel surcharge nearly doubled from 2014.
No grower expects to remove acres from turfgrass production.
More turfgrass acreage will come into production in 2015.
Recommendations:
Get price quotes regularly.
If possible “book” or lock prices to ensure availability and price.
Landscape managers are in high demand to maintain and enhance grounds for commercial and public property owners, including stadiums, golf courses, apartment complexes, resorts and office parks. The University of Georgia proudly offers its own courses for the landscaping industry.
In UGA’s turfgrass courses, you’ll learn to select and maintain different types of turf grasses for a variety of conditions, such as drought, shade and high traffic.
Register yourself or employees for UGA’s Principles of Turfgrass Management (offered in English or Spanish) and become Landscape Industry Certified by PLANET, The Professional Landcare Network.
Register yourself or employees for UGA’s Sports Turfgrass Management. UGA’s Sports Turfgrass Management Course is an in-depth review of fundamental sports field management practices, endorsed by the Sports Turf Managers Association (STMA).
Armitage’s courses Herbaceous Perennials for the Sun and Herbaceous Perennials for the Shade ideal for master gardeners, nursery employees, and landscape designers.
Learn standard turfgrass management practices and procedures. This course covers soils, turfgrass growth, fertilization, mowing, irrigation, weeds, diseases, pesticides, and much more.
Aprenda prácticas y procedimientos estándares sobre el manejo de céspedes. Este curso cubre suelos, crecimiento de céspedes, fertilización, corte, irrigación, malas hierbas, enfermedades, pesticidas y mucho más.
This course explains how turfgrass management practices are specifically adapted to sports fields. You’ll learn the principles of warm- and cool-season turfgrass establishment, growth, maintenance, and troubleshooting.
Learn how to plant, propagate, and care for 18 awesome perennials. You’ll learn each plant’s origin, characteristics, bloom time, flower structure, and optimum growing conditions.
Learn how to plant, propagate, and care for 20 awesome perennials. You’ll learn each plant’s origin, characteristics, bloom time, flower structure, and optimum growing conditions.
Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, University of Georgia. This info is edited from a longer article which can be read here.
Dormant transplanting of trees and ornamentals in the Southeastern United States is a common practice. Warm-season turfgrass sod can also be successfully established during dormancy.
Recommendations for normal sodding also apply to off-season sodding.
Successful transplanting is highly dependent on healthy sod, which is difficult to determine when the sod is dormant or overseeded.
Rootzone preparation is critical for success. Loosen the soil to a depth of 6 inches by tilling before sodding.
During site preparation prior to turf establishment is the best time to take a soil sample to determine pH and nutrient needs. Correction of soil pH and soil nutrient deficiencies is more effective when lime and fertilizer are incorporated into the soil before sodding.
Next, level smooth and moisten the soil. The soil should be lightly watered, but not saturated. Ruts from foot traffic or equipment can occur when soils are too wet and are difficult to repair after the sod is laid.
To prevent drying and potential cold injury of roots, install sod within 48 hours after harvest. This also allows the radiant heat from the earth to offer the sod some protection from cold injury when compared to turf exposed to the elements on a pallet.
Sod should be laid tight and rolled to minimize creases. If creases are apparent after sodding, top dress the sod to fill low spots, conserve moisture and potentially retain heat near the soil surface.
For best survival, avoid winter desiccation and low temperature injury. Dessication can be a significant problem since the warm dry winds of late winter and early spring increase the demand for water, but the combination of low soil temperatures and a limited root system will reduce the plant’s ability to obtain water.
Direct low temperature injury can be a problem because the crowns, stolons and shallow rhizomes may be killed. Unfortunately, newly sodded turf lacks deep rhizomes and the expansive root system necessary to recover from winter stresses.
Research and practical experience has shown that warm-season turfgrasses may be successfully sodded during the off-season (October-April) when the grass is dormant or slowly growing. However, the cooler climates in and north of Atlanta may damage some turf species. More winter injury has been observed on zoysiagrass and centipedegrass as compared to bermudagrass sodded in the fall or winter.
Overseeding sod with ryegrass may reduce warm season turf vigor and quality. While overseeded turf may look appealing during the winter months, during the spring the more heat-tolerant perennial ryegrasses can compete with the warm-season turf for water, nutrients and light. This can cause a poor spring transition and delayed green-up of the warm-season species. This is more common in ryegrass that has been heavily fertilized in the spring.
To assist spring green-up and stimulate turfgrass growth, fertilize with 1.0 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet once night temperatures consistently reach the mid 60s F. Also to further encourage warm-season species growth, lower the mowing height. This practice opens the turfgrass canopy, allowing more sun to the permanent warm-season species while stressing the overseeded grass. Resume accepted maintenance practices once conditions are favorable for warm-season turfgrass growth.
In summary, successful sod transplanting depends on proper soil preparation, good soil-to-sod contact, avoiding low temperature injury, and most importantly – proper water management to prevent desiccation. For more information, see these resources or contact your local UGA Extension Office.
The turfgrass industry is officially losing Illoxan (diclofop-methyl) and Embark (mefluidide) in 2015. These are two important tools in weed control programs with no comparable replacements. The loss of these materials has significant implications for resistance management, seedhead control, and efficiently managing high quality turfgrass.
Goosegrass – John D. Byrd, Mississippi State University, Bugwood.org
Illoxan (diclofop-methyl)
Bayer will not be reregistering Illoxan. Unfortunately, the return on Illoxan sales was not worth the expenses of reregistration for the company. Illoxan is a postemergence herbicide used for goosegrass control in bermudagrass golf courses. This herbicide is one of the most effective chemistries for controlling goosegrass in greens, tees, fairways, and roughs. More importantly, Illoxan is the only ACCase inhibitor used in bermudagrass turf and the loss of this mechanism of action may have significant consequences for resistance management. Goosegrass resistance to ALS inhibitor herbicides, specifically foramsulfuron (Revolver), is becoming more widespread throughout the Southern U.S. Turf managers also have restrictions on MSMA use on golf courses that limit the ability to effectively control goosegrass and other weeds.
Illoxan is an excellent herbicide for controlling goosegrass at most growth stages in bermudagrass and also offered an alternative mechanism of action in resistance management programs. The implications of losing Illoxan in golf course management will emphasize the need for investments in good preemergence herbicides for goosegrass control. Dinitroanilines (DNAs) like prodiamine (Barricade, others) and pendimethalin (Pendulum, others) have potential to control goosegrass but results are often erratic. Resistance to DNA herbicides has also developed in goosegrass populations and alternative chemistries may be needed for effective control. From our research at UGA, Ronstar (oxadiazon) and Specticle (indaziflam) have consistently been the best preemergence herbicides for controlling goosegrass in bermudagrass turf. Other herbicides such as Dismiss (sulfentrazone), Sureguard (flumioxazin), and Tower (dimethenamid) have potential to control goosegrass but our results have been inconsistent over years.
With the loss of Illoxan, bermudagrass managers will only have Revolver (foramsulfuron), Tribute Total (foramsulfuron + thiencarbazone + halosulfuron) and Dismiss (sulfentrazone) available for postemergence goosegrass control. While these herbicides may control immature goosegrass, single applications often do not control tillered plants. Revolver and Tribute Total are both ALS inhibitors and will not effectively control mature goosegrass or resistant biotypes.
Turf managers may also explore the use of MSMA + Sencor (metribuzin) for goosegrass control but these treatments can be very injurious to bermudagrass in summer and may require sequential applications. Moreover, superintendents in Georgia are limited to one application of MSMA per year, not to exceed 25% of the total golf course. Turfgrass managers must understand that losing Illoxan may limit their ability to control goosegrass and may have serious repercussions in resistance management programs.
Embark (mefluidide)
Embark is a growth regulator primarily used for annual bluegrass seedhead control in turfgrass management. Earlier this year there was controversy around the future manufacturing of mefluidide, the active ingredient in Embark, and if this product would be available after 2015. PBI Gordon explored opportunities inside and outside of the U.S. to have mefluidide manufactured and formulated to make new Embark products. The opportunity to make new material was very costly for the company and PBI Gordon has decided not to pursue this investment. The Embark 2S product will be pulled completely, and there will be new Embark T & O 0.2L (essentially a dilution of the 2S) released until the current supply is gone. Once the existing inventory has been sold, Embark will no longer be available from PBI Gordon.
Embark is a growth regulator that has a long history of use in turfgrass and roadside management. Embark is the only seedhead inhibiting growth regulator available for use in warm and cool-season turfgrasses. Turfgrass managers primarily use this chemistry for seedhead control on annual bluegrass, tall fescue, bermudagrass, and other turfgrass species. Proxy (ethephon) is the other seedhead inhibitor available for turfgrass. It is labeled only for cool-season grasses but may be applied to certain zoysiagrass varieties. Proxy causes leaf chlorosis, stand thinning, and quality reductions in bermudagrass, seashore paspalum, and other warm-season species. Other PGRs like Primo (trinexapac-ethyl) or Trimmit (pacloburazol) may provide partial seedhead control but are generally less effective than Embark and Proxy.
Current research efforts at UGA include evaluating seasonal application timing of PGRs to minimize injury and maximize seedhead control on warm-season grasses. We are also evaluating alternatives to Embark, primarily ALS inhibitor herbicides, for seedhead management in bermudagrass turf. Embark is the most popular PGR for annual bluegrass seedhead control in bentgrass greens in Georgia and further research will be needed with Proxy, Proxy + Primo, and other compounds to replace Embark.
Patrick McCullough is an associate professor and extension specialist in turf weed science at the University of Georgia in Griffin.
