Construction Damage in Your Landscape

Source(s): Walter Reeves


Construction damage to plants on a home site is common. In many cases it is an unavoidable consequence of building a home. In other cases, the damage could have been avoided with just a few precautions. The best time to control construction damage is before it occurs. Unfortunately, few of us are afforded that luxury. By the time we see a home and decide to buy it, the damage, much of which may be unseen, has occurred.

What You Don’t See

Some of the damage will be obvious when you first inspect the site, particularly damage to the shrubs and ground cover. However, your landscape could also be suffering from hidden damage that is difficult to detect and expensive to repair. When homes are built, the grading, trenching, tunneling, and excavating of the construction site damages nearby plant roots. It also changes the soil structure and affects the natural drainage system that existed before the site was cleared. Problems that show up months or even years after the home is occupied probably did not exist before construction began.

Building Your Home

When construction began, the site was likely cleared of most of the small plants in the immediate area and bulldozed flat. Soil was removed to construct a basement. Trenches were dug for the foundation and for drains. Paths were scraped and compacted for driveways and walks. Sewer trenches were dug or drain fields were laid and septic tanks placed in position. Trenches were dug for electric, gas, telephone, and cable lines. Soil was replaced along the foundation and the basement walls. Finally the soil was graded, seeded or sodded, and watered.

What You Get

The result of these construction activities is a less than natural situation. The soils are compacted. Plants are displaced. The natural drainage system has been replaced with something possibly less efficient. There are fewer plants for controlling runoff. Roofs, walks, patios, and drives may cover up to 70% of the lot.

Construction and Trees

Possibly you bought your new home because of the beauty of its trees. But the trees may have hidden damage that will cause them to die within two years. Before purchasing a home, you should inspect the trees on the lot to determine if they have been damaged by construction activities. Above ground damage to trees seldom causes the tree to decline in health or die. Rather, the more serious problems lie underground. Depending upon the severity of the injury and the species of tree, damage may take as long as seven years to show up. It is important to recognize situations where damage is likely to have occurred.

How Trees Grow

The natural trees in your yard grew in much different conditions than what exists now in their environment, which has been disturbed by construction activity. It is important that you assess the damage they may have suffered as soon as possible. The following facts about tree growth will help you understand which trees in your yard may be suffering from construction damage.

Tree roots extend from the trunk about two to three feet for every inch of the trunk’s diameter measured 4 feet above the ground. For example, a 10 inch diameter tree may have roots growing 30 feet away from the trunk. Knowing the “root zone” of your trees can help you identify possible problems. If construction activity has come into the root zone by 30 percent or more, you can expect some leaves and limbs to die. More significant damage might cause the whole tree to die eventually.

In the heavy clay soils of the Georgia piedmont, up to 90% of a tree’s roots will be located in the top 12 inches of soil. These roots are seeking oxygen, water and nutrients. The addition of as little as four inches of dirt above the existing soil may cause oxygen levels around the roots to decrease, damaging the tree. On the other hand, the removal of the upper 12 inches of soil on a construction site will take away roots which will not grow back.

A tree is anchored by large roots close to the trunk and farther away. If construction activity has severed any roots close to the tree, it may cause the tree to fall in a strong wind.

The trunk of a tree will naturally swell at its base, where you can see the major root collars entering the ground. If you can’t see the top of the roots, the trunk has had soil added to the original grade.

Trees do not heal – they seal. When part of a tree is damaged, whether root, trunk, or branch, the tree will give up that area and seal it off to prevent disease and insect attack. Dead limbs may occur near a damaged area as the tree seals it off. The limbs may die sporadically for several years after the damage occurs.

Nutrients travel from the leaves to the roots in tubes just 1/8 to 1/2 inch under the tree’s bark. Without bark to protect the tubes, nutrients cannot be transported to the roots and eventually the tree, will die.


Center Publication Number: 12

Composting: Feed Your Landscape, Not the Landfill

Source(s):

  • Gary L Wade
  • Wayne McLaurin

Landfills in Georgia are filling up fast, and residents throughout the state are recycling items such as newspaper, cans, glass and plastic in an effort to prevent this problem.

Landscape recycling also makes sense because leaves, lawn clippings and tree trimmings account for up to 30% of the material being dumped in landfills today. These riches from Mother Nature can be easily recycled right in our own backyards by a process called COMPOSTING.

Composting is a practical and convenient way of recycling leaves, lawn clippings and trimmings from the lawnscape. It is also an economical way of producing rich humus that can be added back to your soil.

Composting is not just a practice for farmers, rural residents or serious gardeners. Anyone with a landscape can benefit both the environment and their landscape by composting.

To learn more about composting and find answers to these commonly asked questions about composting:

  • What is compost?
  • What are the best materials for composting?
  • Do compost piles have offensive odors?
  • Where can I make a compost pile?
  • How big can I make the pile?
  • Do I have to build a frame to hold the compost?
  • How do I construct the pile?
  • How do I care for the pile?
  • What causes decomposition?
  • Does compost have a nutrient value?
  • When is compost ready to use?
  • How can compost be used?

Resource(s):

Center Publication Number: 35

Composting Made Easy

Source(s): Bobbi Sedam, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences (Master Composter – Dekalb County)


Easy, But Slow Compost

Pile leaves, grass and cut up branches in an out-of-the-way place in your yard. Wait a year and then dig underneath the pile for the finished humus the worms have made for you.

Quick Compost

  • Make a compost pile or bin about 3 feet wide and 3 feet high.
  • Chop particles as small as possible.
  • Mix “green” (like grass) and “brown” (like leaves) material.
  • Keep the pile moist, like a wrung-out sponge.
  • Turn the pile with a pitchfork at least once a month.

Compost will be ready to screen and use in your yard in 6 months.

You can compost

  • Vegetable and fruit scraps (bury these in your pile)
  • Wetted-down paper napkins, paper towels, paper board
  • Plant material
  • Animal manure (except dog or cat manure)

Avoid Composting

  • Dog or cat manure (can carry disease transmittable to humans)
  • Meat, milk, bones, cheese, fish, bread or oily kitchen wastes (can attract undesirable varmints)
  • Grass or plant material treated with herbicide
  • Invasive plants(like ivy) or weeds unless thoroughly sun-dried

Compost is produced with oxygen from the air and has a wonderful earthy smell. It rarely happens that a pile gets a bad odor. If it does, turn it and add some dry material. That will immediately solve the problem.


Resource(s): Composting and Mulching

Reviewer(s):

  • James R. Barbe, Program Specialist II – Glynn County. The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
  • Lee Ann Powell, CEA – Chatham County. The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.
  • Jenny Robbins, CEA – Clinch County. The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Center Publication Number: 24

Common Lawn and Garden Terms

Source(s): Randy Drinkard


Some of the most commonly-used lawn, landscaping and garden terms include:

Annual – a plant that grows, blooms, produces seed or fruit and dies in one year or less.

Biennial – a plant that grows and establishes itself the first season, then blooms, produces seed and dies the second season.

Broadcast – a product that is distributed over a large area of space.

Compost – decomposed organic matter, used to enrich the soil and improve drainage and aeration.

Contact – a product that adheres to and is localized on the surface of the leaf or stem of the plant.

Fungicide – a product that controls a fungus.

Herbicide – a product that controls plants.

Humus – the brown or black organic part of the soil that results from the decay of leaves or other organic matter.

Insecticide – a product that controls insects.

Integrated Pest Management(IPM) – multiple tactics used in a compatible manner in order to maintain pest populations below levels that cause economic or unacceptable injury without posing a hazard to humans, domestic animals or non-target life forms.

Miticide – a product that controls mites.

Non-selective herbicide – a product that controls all and any types of plants.

Organic Matter – Any material which originated as a living organism, such as compost, manure or peat moss.

Pesticide – a product that will control a pest.

Perennial – a plant that lives for more than two years, often for many years.

Postemergence – a product that controls visible weeds.

Pre-emergent – a product applied to the soil surface that inhibits weed growth.

Rodenticide – a product that controls rodents.

Selective herbicide – a product that controls only certain types of plants, eliminating non-desirable plants while maintaining desirable plants.

Systemic – a product that is absorbed through the leaves and/or roots of the plant and moves throughout the plant.

Weed – a plant out of place.


Reviewer(s): Todd Hurt, Training Coordinator, UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, June 2006.

Center Publication Number: 206

Common Herbs – Herbs In Southern Gardens

Source(s): Wayne J. McLaurin


Herb Planting Season Spacing Propagation Growth Pattern Light Requirement
Anise (a) Spring 6-8″ Seed 18-24″ Upright Full sun
Anise (a) Spring 6-8″ Seed 18-24″ Upright Full sun
Anise Hyssop (p) Spring 1′ Seed/division 1′ Upright Full sun
Artemisia (p) Spring/fall 2-3′ Seed/cutting/division 2-4′ Upright Full sun/light shade
Basil (a) Spring 1-2′ Seed 1-3′ Upright Full sun
Bay (p) Fall (protected) Container Cutting 3-10′ Woody, upright Partial shade
Borage (a) Spring/late summer 18″ Seed 1-2′ Upright Full sun/partial shade
Caraway (b) Spring/fall 8-12″ Seed 2-3′ Upright Full sun/light shade
Catnip (p) Spring 18″ Seed/cutting/division 1-3′ Upright Sun/partial shade
Cayenne (a) Late spring 2′ Seed 1-2′ Upright Full sun
Chamomile (p) Spring 8-12″ Seed/division 12-14″ Matting Full sun/light shade
Chervil (a) Early spring/late summer 9-12″ Seed 1-2′ Branching Light shade
Chives (p) Spring/fall 8-12″ Seed/division 8-24″ Clumps Full sun/partial shade
Cilantro/Coriander (a) Spring/late summer 4″ Seed 1-2′ Branching Full sun/partial shade
Comfrey (p) Spring/fall 3′ Seed/cutting/division 3-5′ Clumps Full sun/partial shade
Costmary (p) Spring 2′ Seed/division 1-3′ Clumps Full sun/partial shade
Cumin (a) Spring 12-18″ Seed 1′ Upright Full sun
Dill (a) Spring/summer/fall 12-18″ Seed 2-3′ Upright Full sun
Fennel (b,p) Spring 18″ Seed 4-5′ Upright Full sun
Garlic (p) Spring/fall 6-8″ Sets 2′ Upright Full sun
Ginger (p) Late spring/summer 2′ or container Root division 2-4′ Upright Partial shade
Horehound (p) Early spring 1′ Seed/division 2-3′ Upright Full sun
Hyssop (p) Early spring/fall 1′ Seed/cutting/division 1-2′ Upright Full sun/partial shade
Lavender (p) Spring/fall 18-24″ Seed/cutting 18-36″ Upright, shrubby Full sun
Lemon Balm (p) Spring/fall 1′ Seed/cutting/division 2-3′ Branching Full sun/partial shade
Lemon Grass (p) Late spring 3′ Division 2-3′ Clumping Full sun/partial shade
Lemon Verbena (p) Spring 3-4′ Seed/cutting 3-5′ Branching/woody Full sun/partial shade
Lovage (p) Fall 2-3′ Seed/division 3-4′ Upright Full sun/partial shade
Marjoram (p) Spring/fall 6-12″ Seed/cutting/division 6-24″ Upright, shrubby Full sun
Mint (p) Spring/fall 1′ Cutting/division 2-3′ Upright Full sun/partial shade
Monarda (p) Spring/fall 1′ Seed/cutting/division 3-4′ Clumps Full sun/partial shade
Mountain Mint (p) Spring/fall 3′ Seed/division 2-3′ Clumps Partial shade
Oregano (p) Spring/fall 1′ Seed/cutting/division 12-30″ Matting, shrubby Full sun
Parsley (b) Early spring/late summer 6-8″ Seed 12-18″ Upright Full sun/partial shade
Patchouli (p) Spring 2′ Seed/cutting/division 1-2′ Branching, woody Full sun
Pennyroyal (p) Early spring/fall 6-12″ Seed/cutting/division 1′ Matting Full sun
Perilla (a) Spring 2′ Seed 2-3′ Upright Full sun/partial shade
Rosemary (p) Spring/fall 2-3′ Cutting/division/layering 2-3′ Upright Full sun
Rue (p) Spring/fall 18-24″ Seed/cutting/division 2-3′ Branching, woody Full sun/partial shade
Sage (p) Spring/fall 18″ Seed/cutting 2-3′ Branching, woody Full sun
Santolina (p) Spring 2-3′ Seed/cutting/division 18-24″ Upright Full sun
Savory (a/p) Spring 6-10″ Seed/cutting/division 8-18″ Upright Full sun
Scented Geranium (p) Spring 1-2′ Cutting 1-3′ Branching Full sun/partial shade
Sesame (a) Spring 8-12″ Seed 2-3′ Upright Full sun
Soapwort (p) Spring/fall 18″ Seed/division 1-2′ Branching Full sun/partial shade
Sorrel (p) Spring/fall 18″ Seed/division 1-2′ Clumping Full sun
Stachys (p) Spring 18″ Seed/cutting/division 12-18″ Clumping/matting Full sun/partial shade
Sweet Cicely (p) Spring 2′ Seed/division 2-3′ Upright Partial shade
Sweet Woodruff (p) Fall 1′ Seed/division 8-12″ Clumping Shade
Tansy (p) Spring/fall 2-4′ Seed/cutting/division 3-4′ Upright Full sun
Tarragon, French (p) Spring 1-2′ Cutting/division 1-2′ Upright Partial shade
Thyme (p) Fall/spring 1′ Seed/cutting/division/layering 3-12″ Matting, bushy Full sun
Yarrow (p) Spring/fall 1-2′ Seed/division 1-5′ Clumping Full sun
(a) = annual; (b) = biennial; (p) = perennial

Resource(s): Herbs in Southern Gardens

Center Publication Number: 265

Cold Protection of Citrus in Georgia

Source(s): Randy Drinkard


An important consideration when growing any type of citrus plant in Georgia is cold protection. Young citrus plants, even the most cold hardy types, cannot withstand freezing temperatures as well as more mature, bearing trees.

Before the first freeze, trees up to four years of age should be banked with a clean soil up to a height of about 15 inches. Soil banks should be removed after the last chance of freeze in the early spring. Wrapping material with good insulating properties such as fiberglass or foam rubber also make effective protectors and may be used in lieu of soil banks. These materials should be a minimum of six inches thick and must make good contact with the soil.

When only a few plants are involved, protective covers may be used when severe freezes occur. On extremely cold nights, placement of one or two electric light bulbs beneath the cover provides good protection.

Sprinkler irrigation can also be used to protect citrus during freezes. Start applying 1/4 inch per hour when temperatures drop below freezing and continue until temperatures rise above 32 degrees F. Support weak limbs if possible to prevent breakage from ice. The ice should be clear and icicles should be present. If ice is milky white, increase the volume of water being applied.

Among the citrus types which are most easily killed by freezing temperatures are citrons, lemons and limes. Temperatures from the mid to high 20s F. will readily kill or severely damage these plants. Sweet oranges and grapefruit are somewhat more hardy and usually require temperatures in the low to mid 20s before incurring major damage to large branches. Tangerines and mandarins are quite cold hardy, usually withstanding temperatures as low as the low 20s F. before significant wood damage occurs. But among the edible types of sweet citrus, the satsuma (also called the satsuma mandarin or satsuma orange) has the greatest degree of cold hardiness. Properly hardened bearing trees will with stand temperatures as low as 20 degrees F. without appreciable wood damage.

Keep in mind the temperature ranges given above refer only to leaf or wood damage. Citrus fruits easily freeze at 26-28 degrees F. when these temperatures last for several hours. Further, a longer duration of freezing temperatures is required to freeze fruits of grapefruits as compared with sweet oranges. And tangerines and satsuma fruits are more easily frozen than either of the former.

The particular temperature at which tissue of a given plant will freeze and the degree of the damage sustained are functions of a number of factors in addition to the species and variety involved. These factors include:

  1. the freezing temperature reached
  2. the duration of the minimal temperature;
  3. how well the plant became hardened or conditioned before freezing
    temperatures occurred (the freezing point of tissue of a hardened citrus plant may be 5 to 6 degrees lower than an unhardened plant
  4. whether the plant is wet or dry (the killing temperature is 2 to 4 degrees F. lower for a dry citrus plant)
  5. age of the plant (a young plant cannot withstand as much cold as a more mature tree).

Citrus plants seem to freeze at higher temperatures in some years than others. The contributing factor seems to be the difference between air (ambient) temperature and leaf (tissue) temperature. On a windy night with clear or cloudy skies, leaf temperature will be approximately the same as air temperature. On a cold, clear night with little or no wind movement, leaf temperature may easily drop several degrees (3 to 4 degrees F.) below air temperature because of radiation heat loss. Thus, under the latter circumstances, while the minimum air temperature on a given night may have only been 25 degrees F., actual leaf temperature of the plants may have reached 21 to 22 degrees F. The critical temperature is that of the leaf or fruit and not the air temperature per se.


Resource(s): Citrus Fruits for Southern and Coastal Georgia

Cold Damage to Ornamental Plants

Source(s): Robert R Westerfield, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, Extension Horticulturist


Cold damage to ornamental plants can be a problem during the winter in the Georgia landscape. This is true whether you live in the upper elevations of the mountains or in the most southern regions of the state. Regardless of where you live, recommended practices can maximize the chances that your prized landscape plants will survive the winter.

cold

During the summer months, ornamental plants are actively growing and would be severely injured by even the slightest frost. During the late summer and early fall, the plants must prepare themselves for winter through a process called cold acclimation. This process is initiated by the cooler temperatures and shorter day lengths that naturally occur at this time of the year.

Cold acclimation must occur in a timely fashion. If it occurs too early, the growing season of the plants will be shortened; if too late, they will be injured or killed by early frosts. Several factors including local weather conditions, plant selection, and maintenance practices during the growing season, can affect the timing and extent of cold acclimation of landscape plants.

Types of Damage and Conditions

Cold injury can occur on all parts of the plant including fruit, stems, leaves, trunk and roots. Typically, homeowners notice the cold damage first on the leaves and stems. Ice forms within the plant’s cells, the plant tissue dies, and leaves or stems become brownish-black and mushy. Cold acclimated plants can often withstand this type of ice formation. Plants that are not acclimated may sustain injury to the root system and may be severely damaged or killed. Sometimes this is not noticed until the plant fails to leaf out the following spring.

Windy conditions and accompanying cold also may cause plant damage through desiccation (evaporative water loss exceeds water absorption). This is the drying out of the plant. Marginal leaf scorching or leaf-tip burn is characteristic of this problem. Leaves may eventually turn completely brown and defoliate.

Damage to flower and leaf buds can occur during periods of low or fluctuating temperatures. This can lead to a reduction or total loss of blooms and damage of the foliage the following spring. Damage can be appraised by removing several buds and cutting them open to reveal their condition. If they appear green throughout, they are healthy; if they are partially brown or darkened, they have been injured.

One common problem that may occur during cold temperatures in woody plants is bark splitting. Bark splitting appears as loose bark in various areas on the trunk. As the bark exfoliates from dead tissue on the trunk, a frost canker can form. The canker may initially appear as a darkened, moist area. Bark splitting can cause structural damage and reduce the plant’s ability to transport nutrients and water. This can cause the death of the entire plant.

Although not common in Georgia, frost cracks on the trunks of woody plants can occur in sections of the state when plants are exposed to extremely cold temperatures. A frost crack is a long, deep, narrow crevice running up and down the trunk of a tree. As temperatures cool down, the temperature of the trunk drops quickly and the trunk contracts and may split.

Preventive Measures

Plant and Site Selection

The best way to prevent cold damage is to select a plant that can tolerate cold temperatures in your area. Georgia has different climatic zones, making it important to select plants that meet the minimum cold hardy requirements for your area. When selecting cold-tolerant plants, be sure to consider whether they can survive the summer heat in your area as well.

In addition to plant selection, proper site selection is essential. Assess your property to determine the location of the coldest and the warmest spots. During the winter, the coldest spots are often found on the north and northwest part of the property and in low areas where cold air settles. The warmest spots are usually on the southern part of the property.

Assessing the microclimates of your property is also important. Elevation, landform, soil properties, canopy cover, and proximity of structures or other plants determine a microclimate. Microclimates can be used to help protect plants by placing cold-sensitive plants near the part of the house that receives southern exposure or near larger plants or other structures.

Maintaining proper plant nutrition increases a plant’s tolerance to cold injury. A plant that has been given the appropriate nutrition is healthier and more capable of acclimating to cold temperatures. Fertilizing plants at the proper time of year is also vital. Fertilizing plants in the fall (after August or September) with a fertilizer high in nitrogen can cause a flush of new growth that is more susceptible to cold temperatures. Soil sampling is the best method to determine your plants’ nutritional needs. Contact your local county agent for testing procedures.

Pruning and Transplanting

Pruning in late summer or early fall can cause new growth that is more susceptible to cold injury. Prune plants just prior to the appearance of new growth in late winter or early spring. Plants transplanted in late fall or early winter are also more susceptible to cold injury. These plants may not acclimate properly when exposed to low temperatures. Transplant in the early fall.

Canopies and Shade

Radiational freezes occur on calm, clear nights when temperatures drop because of heat loss from the surfaces of objects. Canopies help reduce radiant heat loss from the plants and soil by preventing heat loss to the atmosphere.

Plants that grow in shaded areas are less susceptible to winter desiccation, or drying out, than those grown in full sun. Plants that prefer full sun do not do well in the shade and will be unhealthy and less tolerant of cold temperatures if sited incorrectly.

Windbreaks

Windbreaks such as fences, buildings, evergreen plantings and temporary structures can help protect plants from cold injury. Windbreaks are most useful in reducing injury caused by cold winds and advective freezes (freezes that occur when temperatures drop because of the invasion of cold air masses into the area). They should generally be located anywhere cold winds are a problem; this is often on the northwest side of the planting.

Covering and Heating

Protect plants in containers either by placing them inside a protective structure (house, garage, greenhouse or shed) or by placing a protective covering over them. Container plants are especially susceptible to cold temperatures; their roots are more exposed because they are above ground. Plants with roots that are damaged by cold temperatures may not show immediate signs of damage; these plants will show signs of stress when temperatures rise and the demand for water from the roots is greater.

Push together container plants that are left outside and mulch or cover them to decrease heat loss from the sides of the containers. Wrap the bases of the containers in plastic, burlap or blankets to reduce heat loss.

Plants growing close to the ground are usually protected by heat radiating from the soil. Tall, more open plants do not receive as much radiating heat and are not as protected from the cold. Mulching helps reduce heat loss of the soil, thus minimizing temperature fluctuations. Protecting the roots of tender perennials may also be beneficial for them to survive the cold and come back in the spring.

Covering your plants with sheets, blankets or cardboard boxes helps protect them from low temperature injury. Plastic sheeting is not recommended; the plant can heat up rapidly as temperatures rise be damaged). Remove the cover and provide ventilation during the day to allow the release of the heat that is trapped by solar radiation. You can build a frame from PVC or similar material to keep the cover from coming in contact with the plant and possibly breaking leaves and stems.

Water Needs Before a Freeze

Plants continue to have water requirements during the winter months. Therefore, following sound irrigation practices is essential for a healthy and cold hardy plant. Check the water needs of plants prior to a predicted cold snap and water if necessary. Moist soil absorbs more heat, helping to maintain an elevated temperature around the plants. Mulching the base of plants helps to retain moisture.

After a Freeze

Cold damage may not be apparent in the plant for several days or weeks. To determine if your plants have been damaged by the cold, wait several days after a freeze and remove several buds, stems and leaves (if present) from the plant. Use a sharp knife or razor blade to cut a cross section of the bud’s top. If there is any discoloration in the bud, they have been damaged.

To determine if stems have been injured by the cold, peel the bark back to reveal the cambium layer (layer directly under the bark). If there is any black or brown discoloration, damage has occurred. Leaf damage may appear as obvious black or burnt foliage, usually occurring at the tip of the branches. Damage on buds, stems and leaves may be localized and the entire plant may not be affected.

Waiting to prune after freezes have passed will guard against removing living wood. If localized damage has occurred to the foliage or stems, prune several inches below the injured tissue. Although injured buds may reduce or eliminate flowering or leaf emergence in the spring, no pruning is necessary.


Center Publication Number: 157

Cicada Killers

Source(s): Jason Vance, Gwinnett County Extension Intern, Biology Major, Georgia Southern University.


Every summer we often hear about sightings of an abnormally large wasp or bee buzzing around the lawn. This intimidating insect can measure from 1½ to 2 inches in length and is black or brown with colorful yellow markings on the abdomen and a stinger measuring ¼ inch long. There is not much need to worry for this is neither a mutated nor an invasive insect, but is rather a native species of wasp commonly known as the cicada killer.

cicada

Sightings are common from mid to late summer as the adults are emerging or searching for cicadas. After emerging the adult wasps will feed on flower nectar, mate, and dig burrows preparing for the next generation. Once it is ready to reproduce, the adult female will capture a cicada, sting it, which paralyzes it, then carries it to a previously dug burrow measuring 10 inches to 4 feet in length. The wasp will then lay a single egg, bring in the paralyzed cicada, and then seal the chamber. The egg hatches and begins to eat the insides of the still-living cicada for 4- 10 days. Once everything but the outer shell has been devoured, the wasp larva then spins a silken case and prepares to overwinter. Come springtime, the larva begins to pupate becoming adults. The next generation of adults will crawl out of the ground and start the process over again. Only one generation occurs each year.

As frightening as these insects may appear, they are typically not aggressive and are actually considered to be beneficial. These wasps will not sting unless cornered or accidentally touched or stepped on. In this case, a cicada killer’s sting can be very painful. The sting is not dangerous unless the victim is known to be allergic to bee stings or shows signs of an allergic reaction. If this occurs, it would be wise to seek medical attention. The only places this insect can pose a real threat are where people, especially children, tend to congregate or play. If one gets to close to a burrow, one may encounter an inquisitive male guarding the area. There is no real need to worry, for he is only bluffing and possesses no stinger.

Though this insect is solitary, it is possible to find groups of wasps in certain areas. A single burrow may be no real problem, but an infestation can become unsightly and possibly even smother turfgrass. This is, however, quite rare for they prefer to nest in sandy, well-drained soil exposed to full sunlight.

If cicada killers prove to pose a threat to ones safety or the appearance of your lawn, there are many ways of prevention and control. One may use cultural practices to prevent establishment of a cicada killer colony by maintaining a healthy lawn by fertilizing and frequent watering. This promotes thick growth of turfgrass, creating an undesirable place for cicada killers to nest. One may also apply ground covering and mulch on lawns and recreational areas to deter the wasps from nesting in the area.

Though rare, if an infestation becomes out of control, a safety risk, or a liability, one may use insecticides to control the problem. Appropriately labeled insecticides may be used to kill adult wasps or treat nesting areas. Call your local Extension office or click below on “Georgia Pest Management Handbook” for a list of up-to-date approved chemicals for treatment. Always follow the instructions on the product label.

Most importantly, remember these insects are beneficial. If they pose no threat, leave them alone as they aid in keeping populations of certain insects in check.


Center Publication Number: 209

Christmas Cactus Culture

Source(s): Michele Browne, Former Horticulture Program Assistant – Cobb County Extension.


Christmas cacti, popular as houseplants, are readily available at florists, garden centers, and hardware and mass marketing stores to brighten Georgia homes during the dark winter. Many are sold already in bloom. With a little care, these plants will flower again during the following year.

thumbnail_xmascac1

Types of Christmas Cacti

The three common flowering “Christmas type” cacti are:

  • Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii)
    • Pointed lobed leaves
    • Flowers from Thanksgiving to Christmas
  • Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncatus)
  • Easter cactus (Physaledopsis gaetner)
    • Wider rounded leaves
    • Flowers from Christmas to Easter

Home Care of Christmas Cacti

All types of Christmas cacti require similar home care, including:

  • Well-drained soil composed of
    • 3 parts compost, bark chips, or bark compost
    • 2 parts sand
    • 1 part peat moss
  • Complete fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) in an occasional light application
  • Normal house temperatures during flowering

Setting Buds and Stimulating Flowers

Buds begin to form in early autumn as days shorten and temperatures drop. Flower buds seldom form at night temperatures above 70°F.

To set flower buds, provide one of these conditions:

  • Reduce night temperatures to 50-55°F

OR

  • Reduce night temperatures to 60-75°F and protect from sun and electric lights from September to November, supply 12-14 uninterrupted hours of darkness (such as in a storage area or an infrequently used room).

Before Flowering

Before flowering, provide bright light or full sun. Fertilize with 20-10-20. Stop fertilizer 6 to 8 weeks

New Growth After Flowering

After flowering, the new growth creates the buds for next year’s flowers. Continue with sun and resume fertilizer.

Outdoor Cultivation

For cacti growing outdoors, in mid-August reduce water and fertilizer to harden off new growth. This slows the plant’s metabolism, storing carbohydrates in the plant and discouraging further growth. Water sparingly from this time until next flowering.

Propagation

Flowering cacti easily propagate from leaf cuttings at any time of year. Allow three joints per cutting. Place two or three cuttings in each 3 1/2″ pot. Keep at 70°F.

Problems

Insects and diseases are rare.

Causes of flower drop include:

  • Too much water
  • Too little water
  • Radical change in environment, such as greenhouse to home.

Center Publication Number: 6

Chipmunks and Their Control

Source(s): Michael T. Mengak, Ph.D., Associate Professor and Wildlife Outreach Specialist, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia.


The Eastern Chipmunk is one of the smaller members of the squirrel family, measuring 8 to 10 inches long. Chipmunks are primarily ground dwellers, but they do climb trees and shrubs for food and protection when necessary. They may be identified by the three dark dorsal stripes on the otherwise reddish-brown coat and by its habit of running with its tail sticking straight up in the air.

Chipmunks and Their Control

Chipmunks and their Behavior

Chipmunks are quick in movements and very alert to danger. They prefer open wooded areas with plenty of food-producing trees and bushes. Food and protection offered by shrubbery, flowers, gardens and various types of landscaping attract chipmunks; and it is in these conditions that most problems arise. The cute, playful little creature then becomes a pest that threatens the appearance and the well-being of a home.

The Eastern Chipmunk has an extensive burrow system that may be 30 feet or more in length with one or more hollowed out cavities where young are reared. Openings are usually at the bases of stumps or fallen logs or beside large stones or walls. Entrances and exits of the burrow system are kept free of excavated dirt.

Chipmunks eat grain (corn), nuts (acorns), seeds (sunflower or other seed in a bird seed mix), mushrooms, insects (caterpillars) and some carrion (dead animal tissue), although this is a rare item in their diet.

Damage

Chipmunks are territorial and rarely become abundant enough to cause a lot of damage. Individuals will gnaw into bags containing dog food or bird seed. They will also dig up and consume flower bulbs. Occasionally they will gnaw the bark from shrubbery.

Repellents

Naphthalene crystals (“mothballs”) may repel chipmunks from sheds, attics or summer cabins. The quantity required is usually so great that the odor is offensive to humans. There are no registered repellents for chipmunks. Taste repellents containing bitrex, thiram or ammonium soaps of higher fatty acids can be applied to landscape plants. Products such as Ro-Pel®, Hinder®, Big Game Repellent® or This-1-Works® are commercially available from garden supply stores, feed stores and forestry catalogs. There are no fumigants or toxicants registered for controlling chipmunks.

Trapping

Trapping is the easiest method to control chipmunks. The large wooden base snap traps used in rat control are effective in chipmunk control. Peanut butter alone or mixed with oatmeal makes good bait. Place traps along runways at burrow openings or in other areas of chipmunk activity. Place snap traps perpendicular to the wall or near burrow entrances. Homeowners can use live traps such as Havahart (No. 0) or Tomahawk (No. 102). Garden and feed stores generally sell these traps.

Exclusion

Exclude chipmunks from buildings whenever possible. Seal holes where gas lines, cooling lines or cable TV enter the house. Use caulking or ¼ inch welded wire. Attach a homemade screen to the bottom of a clothes dryer vent if the vent is near the ground.

Shooting

If safe to do so, shooting can be effective. Use only a .22 caliber rifle with pellets or an air rifle (BB gun). Check local ordinances. It is often illegal to discharge any firearms inside city limits.

Legal Status

ALL non-game wildlife is protected in Georgia. Therefore, it is illegal to kill any species unless specifically permitted by regulations such as hunting and fishing laws. Check with your local conservation office. Generally, homeowners can protect their property from mammals causing or about to cause damage. This does not allow citizens to kill wildlife out of season or in violation of federal, state or local laws or ordinances. Contact police or local Wildlife Resource Division personnel.


Reviewer(s): Michael T. Mengak, Ph.D., Associate Professor and Wildlife Outreach Specialist, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia, July 2006.

Center Publication Number: 211