Articles

Source(s): Walter Reeves

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Application of the correct amount of fertilizer and pesticide to a lawn is important! Too much fertilizer may burn the grass. Too little herbicide gives ineffective weed control.

There are many brands of lawn spreaders. Each spreader has its own method for setting the rate of application. To confuse matters even more, a spreader setting that accurately dispenses the correct fertilizer rate at one setting might not dispense the same amount of pesticide or seed at that setting.

To protect the environment and your lawn, your spreader should be calibrated for each product you use. This includes seed if you have a fescue lawn.

Calibration is not difficult. It only involves measuring a known area and then measuring the amount of product applied to that area at a certain spreader setting.

This only needs to be done one time for each product.

The only equipment you will need is a bathroom scale, a bucket and a tape measure.

To calibrate a spreader

1. Set your spreader at about 1/3 open. (Example: if the spreader has settings from #1 to #9, set it at the #3.)

2. Put two to three pounds of clean sand in the spreader; walk forward and let it dispense for ten to twenty feet. Visually note the width of the swath of sand applied by the spreader. Stop and measure the width of the swath. Remove remaining sand.

Swath width:________feet

NOTE: ‘Drop’ spreaders are easy; the swath width is the width of the spreader body.

3. Divide the swath width into 1000.

1000 square feet =_______feet width from step #2

4. Put ten pounds of the product you wish to apply in the spreader. Walk forward and operate the spreader for the number of feet determined in step #3.

5. Stop. Remove product from spreader and weigh it. Subtract this weight from ten pounds. The result is the number of pounds of the product applied at that spreader setting per 1000 square feet.

Ten pounds minus what is left =________ (amount of product applied per 1000 square feet)

6. Adjust the spreader opening up or down to achieve the application rate you wish for that product. (Repeating steps #4 – #5.) Use a felt tip marker to write on the spreader and indicate the proper setting.

Example:

#4 setting = six pounds of 16-48 fertilizer/1000 square feet

1.	Hold an Empty bucket in your hand. Step on the scale and note the weight shown.
2.	Scoop out of the bag approximately the weight of product you want and place in bucket.
3.	Re-weigh yourself holding the bucket.
4.	Add or subtract material from the bucket, re-weighing each time, until you have the right amount.

 

 

 

Step by Step Example	Action/Calculation
1. You want to apply six pounds of fescue seed per 1000 square feet.
2. Spreader settings are #1 – #10	Set spreader to #3
3. Walk 20 feet with sand in spreader.	Measure with tape measure.
4. Divide ten feet swath width into 1000.	1000 sq. ft. / 10 ft. = 100 ft. to walk 10 ft.
5. Place ten pounds of fescue seed in spreader and walk 100 feet. Weigh remaining seed. There are six pounds remaining.	You have applied only four pounds of seed to 1000 square feet at spreader setting #3. Need to adjust spreader opening.
6. Adjust spreader to #4 opening. Put ten pounds of seed in and walk another 100 feet. Four pounds of seed remain in spreader.	You have applied six pounds of seed per 1000 square feet.Mark on spreader #4 = six pounds fescue/1000 square feet.

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 11

Source(s): Dick Parker, DeKalb County Master Gardener Volunteer, Georgia Extension.

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“What’s wrong with my tree?” Homeowners by the hundreds ask this very question. Many write, “The leaves are turning brown,” or “Some of the branches are dying,” or “My whole tree is looking sickly. ” What can I do?

Before you or anyone else can begin to assess your tree’s condition, you need to know what kind of tree you have and something about the general growth characteristics of the particular tree. Is your tree shallow or deep rooted? Is it deciduous or evergreen? Does your tree prefer wet or well-drained soils? When you have this information, you can begin to reduce your list of probable causes. Many times the first thing you spot is an insect or a disease and you begin to suspect that they are the cause for the decline. Don’t end your search there because there are often other factors (environmental, etc.) that pre-dispose the trees to the pest attack.

Sometimes inaccurate diagnosis can be made by looking at samples of dead or diseased materials. When sampling, make sure you collect a sufficient amount of leaves, twigs, branches, roots, insects or whatever and bring them in while they are still fresh and identifiable.

If you still can’t pinpoint a cause, an on-site visit and tree examination may be required. At this point it is best to consult a professional who is familiar with tree problems such as the Georgia Forestry Commission or an arborist-tree surgeon.

Before you call someone in, take a few moments to follow through on this sheet and answer all the questions as accurately is you can. The very least you will come up with is some information that will help someone else make a proper diagnosis.

Has your tree been transplanted? When a tree or any plant is moved (transplanted), it often goes through in adjustment period referred to as transplant shock. This shock is a result of its change in growing conditions. Your soil, the light conditions, the amount of moisture, the amount of fertilizer, etc. are often quite different than what the plant had been grown in at the nursery or in the woods. Transplant shock can occur no matter how carefully you handle the plant (tree) during the transplant process.

Symptoms: leaf yellowing or browning; leaf rolling, curling, wilting, and scorching on the edges; dieback of the branch tips; and sometimes death of the plant.

In nature, a balance is established between the root system and the leafy crown. In other words, so many leaves grow to produce so much food to support so many roots. Also, so many roots grow out to absorb enough water and nutrients to support the functioning of so many leaves and the production of food. When you transplant, this delicate balance is altered, especially if you try to move trees from the field or woods. To increase your chance of success, try root pruning a year or even two years before you actually move the plant. Root pruning causes the roots to grow in a more compact form which in turn allows you to get more of the total root system when you dig up your ball. The more roots you get, the better your chances will be for tree survival.

Commercial nurseries root prune on an annual basis to prepare their plants for a successful outplanting on your homesite.

Is your tree located on a recently developed home site?

Construction damage is a type of tree problem that can be difficult to diagnose. If the damage is not visible (a scar) or it does not kill the tree right away (dieback or dead tree), the tree can linger and have a slow death over several years. This slow death is often related to the amount of root damage that was incurred from the parking or operation of heavy equipment over the root system. This soil compaction causes root loss.

The trees most affected by this problem are usually located close to the foundation of your home. near the driveway; or in major cut through areas established for utilities.

Have underground utility lines been cut through?

Even if you have been able to protect individual or groups of trees during the initial phases of construction, don’t relax yet. The utility people are often the last ones to finish up at a work site, and without some guidance they can finish off whatever trees are left. Utility companies include gas, telephone, cable television, water and sewer, and electricity. Proper trenching and grading techniques can be instituted to limit tree damage.

SYMPTOMS: Same as those listed for transplant shock. What will give these away is the location of the trees. Are they located where lines were cut through?

Has a grade change been made recently?

Changing the grade under a tree means adding or removing soil in the area of the root system. The removal of even a few inches of soil can damage feeder roots and, cause shock to the tree. Most feeder roots are located within the upper 12-18″ of the soil surface.

The injury produced by lowering the grade is often minor when compared with the damage done by raising the grade. An improperly applied soil fill of as little as 1-2″ can seriously affect some trees. Proper technique and precautions can sometimes limit the number of tree deaths. Consult an expert before making grade changes.

SYMPTOMS OF DAMAGE: Same as above. You can determine if fill has been added by looking at the base of the tree. The lower trunk/root area should flare out where it enters the ground. If there is fill, there will be no flare it will look like the trunk is straight on all sides.

How badly has drought affected your tree?

This often depends upon whether or not your tree is well established. Once a new tree is in the ground for 2-3 years, it is pretty well adapted to your site conditions and it can tolerate stress better. Trees growing in poor locations may have a hard time getting adequate water supplies even during normal rainfall years. During an extreme drought, the moisture supply may be so reduced that the feeder roots begin to die. If there is enough root loss, symptoms will be expressed in the foliage as either leaf scorch or branch dieback.

Many times a tree can survive a single season of moisture stress, but a series of dry years can seriously reduce the vigor of the strongest trees: Once weakened, the trees are susceptible to damage by other pasts such as: insects(borers, etc.) and fungi(decay fungi).

Poor drainage or excessive moisture?

Too much water in the soil is often more of a problem for trees than too little water. In areas that have heavy clay subsoil, recently transplanted trees often die from too much water and a lack of oxygen. Adding sandy loam or peat moss to your planting hole will not improve the situation. Try planting your tree higher when you set it in the ground or install a french drain or drain tile to remove excess water from the root area. The best solution might be to plant trees that are adapted to wet sites such as red maple, bald cypress, river birch, weeping willow, etc.

Trees growing with a street on one side and a sidewalk on the other, are usually the first ones to display drought or high temperature stress. Some city trees have leaves that express symptoms of drought stress (scorch, yellowing, etc.) every year but are able to survive. Supplemental watering can help alleviate this problem. Partial thinning of the top of the tree may also help by balancing root to leaf ratio.

SYMPTOMS: Same as those already mentioned–the site will give it away.

Does your tree have girdling roots?

When first planting a small tree, many people dig the hole too small to accommodate the full spread of the root system. Sometimes they even go so far as to wind the longer roots around the stem to make the tree fit into a smaller hole. A few years later as the roots grow in diameter they begin to cut into the tree and choke it off much like a rope would do around a person’s neck. Such roots are called girdling roots, and they can cause untold damage.

The first symptom of a girdling root is the gradual decline of branch or perhaps the branches on one side of the crown. Every year more branches will die, until finally one whole side of the tree is dead. Before this stage is reached, examine the tree trunk at the soil line for the presence of girdling roots. They can be located at or below soil level. If the crown is not too far gone, consider removing the troublesome root with a wood chisel during the dormant period.

Was your tree struck by lightning?

Did your tree die all of a sudden? If so, can you associate the approximate time the damage occurred with a particularly loud crash of thunder. Lightning that kills a tree may leave visible signs such as torn streaks of bark up and down the trunk or it may leave no signs at all.

Has your tree been damaged by improper pesticide use?

Factors to consider:

• Was the correct pesticide used?
• Was it mixed correctly?
• Did you apply it correctly using the right techniques at the right time?
• Were the plants already in a stressed condition when they were sprayed?
• Did you use an herbicide (weed killer)?

NOTE: Many weed killers (2,4-D, Dicamba) can cause damage if used in the root zones of trees and shrubs.

Symptoms: Oddly shaped foliage (twisted, cupped, curled, or wilted); discolored or damaged foliage (scorched, burned, spotted, etc.; foliage loss; tree death.

What else could be wrong with your tree?

There are countless other causes for unhealthy trees. Some of them to consider are:

1. Wires or chains used as clothes lines or dog runs can eventually constrict and girdle the tree. (Guy wires used to support new trees can do the same.)
2. Nylon cord used to hold a burlap root bail together should be removed at planting. It will not rot and it can girdle the tree trunk in a few years.
3. Mice, rabbits or other rodents can injure roots or lower trunk areas of young or recently transplanted trees.
4. Mechanical damage can be caused by lawn mowers whacking into the trunk or by string trimmer attack.
5. Some trees not native to the area may be frozen back in winter or killed by the hot summer temperatures. (Plant native trees.)
6. Fire damage can occur when leaves or trash are piled and burned underneath trees.
7. Sapsuckers have been observed to feed on over 26 tree varieties. They tap small circular holes in groupings or straight lines all the way around the trunk. Primary targets include: white pine, crabapple, apples, pears, and red maples.
8. Slime Flux – foul-smelling bacterial ooze that seeps from wounds in the bark or wood. These wounds are often located at the base of the trunk or on root flares.
9. Air Pollution has been shown to damage trees. Characteristic symptoms include: yellowing, dwarfing of the needles, and tip burn on pines, leaf burn and scorch on hardwoods such as: beech, crabapple, oak, and peaches.
10. Consider the plant’s location – near a driveway, parking lot, etc.

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Source(s): Robert R Westerfield, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences, Extension Horticulturist

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The bleak, blustery days of winter often give us the feeling we should be working inside instead of attending to our landscapes. On the really cold days, this certainly makes sense; but there are actually a number of important tasks that should be done now to prepare our landscapes for the coming spring flush.

Pruning

Begin now to prune shrubs and trees (including fruit trees) to shape them and remove dead wood. Remember to delay pruning of spring-flowering plants, such as azaleas, forsythia and spireas, until after they have finished blooming in the spring – unless they need some major overhaul pruning. Severe pruning is best done in February before new growth begins.

This is also a good time to check the condition of our pruning equipment. Now is the perfect time to inspect and sharpen any dull blades. Learn to use a small file or sharpening stone and stay away from the electric grinders.

Transplanting

Although the ideal time to transplant shrubs and small trees may have been in late fall, you can still move plants now through early spring. The three keys to successful transplanting are: 1) transplant shrubs and trees when the ground is not too moist or soggy; 2) dig and move transplants with as many intact roots as possible; and 3) prepare the planting hole as well as possible.

Taking as much of the original root ball as practical will greatly aid in reducing transplant shock. One useful trick to use when transplanting a shrub or tree a short distance in the yard is to have a flat piece of cardboard or plywood nearby. Place the removed shrub or tree on the cardboard or plywood and then simply drag the plant to the intended planting site. By doing it this way there is much less chance of losing part of the root ball because the plant is barely lifted off the ground.

Always dig the planting holes for new transplants prior to digging up the plants themselves. This reduces the amount of time the roots are exposed to drying winds and sunlight, thus helping to reduce transplant shock.

Don’t forget to water newly transplanted shrubs and trees. Transplants need a good soaking immediately after moving and additional waterings during dry or windy periods. Mulch all new transplants with a 4 inch layer of suitable material to reduce erosion.

Clean Up

Now is a great time to do some general maintenance around our flower beds. Remove any existing dead foliage from the annuals and perennials in the landscape to reduce disease reoccurence later in the year. Be sure to mark the spots where dormant perennial plants and bulbs are growing so you don’t over plant this area in the spring.

Remove old soggy mulch if it has become matted and add a few inches of fresh pine straw or pine bark. Some gardeners prefer pine bark because it remains in place and does not blow and scatter around like pine straw.

Scout the lawn for emerged winter annuals and apply the appropriate postemergent herbicide if needed. Colorful, but troublesome patches of clover, chickweed and henbit popup seemingly overnight and cover areas in the lawn. Controlling these weeds now before they produce seeds will reduce weed populations in the future.

Other Tasks

• If your lawn was weedy last summer, now is the time to apply pre-emergent herbicide to control this summer’s weeds. Be sure to select a product labeled for the type turf grass you have. Do not use pre-emergence controls if you are planning to re-plant or reseed your lawn soon with feccue.
• Fruit trees should be pruned in late winter. Apples and pears are pruned to an upright growth habit and central leader. Peaches are pruned to an open bowl shape.
• Start seeds of your favorite spring garden vegetables inside now so that they are ready to plant when soil temperatures are warmer. Use a good, sterile, growing medium to start tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, etc. Keep seed trays where they will receive plenty of light and be sure the seeds are moist but not overly wet.
• In the month of February, plant bare-root roses into a well amended bed. Be sure to leave the grafted crown of the plant above the soil.
• Boxwoods and hollies may show signs of leaf miner. At first the damage appears as small holes in the leaves but later develops into elongated discolored areas. Apply a recommended systemic insecticide at the first sign of damage.
• Hold off the temptation to fertilize warm season turf grasses until they are well into the green-up stage. Delay fertilizing ornamental shrubs until mid to late March.
• Check fig trees for any winter cold damage and prune away affected branches. Sometimes heavy pruning is needed to remove all of the damaged wood.
• Fertilize fruit trees in March according to soil test recommendations. Remember to begin a disease and insect spray program for all fruit trees. Continue applications at the recommended intervals until the fruit ripens. Avoid spraying when the flowers are open and keep a record of dates, amounts and chemicals used.
• Start seeds of summer annuals such as marigolds, petunias, salvia and zinnia indoors. Do not place the transplants in the ground until all threat of frost is gone.
• Hosta plants can be dug and split for transplanting after they begin to emerge in the spring. Watch for slugs and snails and apply recommended baits as needed to control them.
• If you have mum plants that survive the winter, you know you don’t have to buy mums in the fall ever again. It is easy to go out in late winter and find clumps with fresh growth tight inside the old dead stems. Lift these, separate and replant – perhaps putting them in pots, where they can grow all year in a secluded nursery and be moved into place as autumn decor.
• Recycle those old mini blinds in the garden. Cut slats into 6-8” pieces with wire snips and use a permanent marker to record seed varieties and planting dates.

Winter truly is a great time to get out in the landscape. Although it may be hard to break ourselves away from the fireplace, doing a few chores now will have our landscapes looking better this spring.

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Resource(s):
Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape

Source(s): Jim Midcap, Extension Horticulturist, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

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Winter is a strange time to think of flowers in the landscape. Yet it can be a surprising awakening of the garden. Several types of trees, shrubs, vines, annuals and perennials bloom between fall and spring.

Here are some favorite winter bloomers.

Winter jasmine is an evergreen, arching shrub reaching 3 to 4 feet high and 4 to 6 feet wide. With the warm days of January and February, the red buds open into bright yellow, tubular flowers on the green stems.

The flowers open over a long time, with always a few open blooms once it starts. This plant flowers best in full sun. It’s well-adapted to banks where the ends of the branches root, starting new plants.

Winter daphne is an aristocrat in the plant world. This slow-growing, mounded evergreen reaches about 3 feet tall and a little less wide.

The clusters of tiny flowers form heads 1 to 2 inches across in solid white or pink-edged white flowers. The flowers stay in good condition for four to six weeks. The outstanding fragrance fills the area, too.

However, it’s not an easy plant to grow. It dislikes having its roots in wet soils. Plant it high in well-drained, amended soils in partial shade for best results.

Winter honeysuckle brings life to the garden with its sweet fragrance. The small, creamy flowers seldom attract attention, except from the insects. The plant is best placed in an out-of-the-way space.

It’s a tough, adaptable plant that reaches 6 to 10 feet tall in sun or shade. Tuck it away and let visitors try to find the source of the honeysuckle perfume.

Lenten rose is a foot-tall, delightful perennial that starts to bloom in January or February. This plant is easy to grow and only requires partial shade and occasional watering.

It rewards us with clusters of nodding terminal flowers 3 inches wide that are white to maroon, many with freckle spots inside. The flowers last eight weeks or more before turning green with the development of its inflated seed pods. The leathery, dark green leaves are attractive all year.

These few suggestions will enhance most winter gardens. Color and fragrance are both enjoyable during the warm days of winter.

If you plant in the fall, be sure to select plants that are mature enough to have developed flower buds, or you may have to wait another growing season to enjoy their blooms.

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Resource(s):
Landscape Plants for Georgia

Center Publication Number: 156

Source(s):

• The LSU AgCenter, Louisiana State University.
• The North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, North Carolina State University.

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During the winter months it is sometimes necessary to protect certain landscape plants. Winter protection means providing protection to plants from freezing temperatures, damaging winds, heavy snow and ice, the alternate freezing and thawing of the soil beneath the plants, and heat from the sun on very cold days.

COLD TEMPERATURES

Small, individual plants can be protected by covering them with various-sized cardboard boxes, trash containers or other such structures. Larger plants can be protected by constructing a simple frame over the plant and covering the frame with sheets, quilts or plastic. The frame holds the covering off the foliage preventing branch breakage and improving cold protection. A frame need be nothing more elaborate than three or four stakes slightly taller than the plant, driven into the ground. The cover should extend to the ground and be sealed with soil, stones or bricks. Plastic covers should be vented or removed on sunny, warm days.

Plant covers will work best for light freezes by preventing or blocking heat loss. The extreme, prolonged cold that occurs during severe freezes is not so easily dealt with. Many plants will still die even with protection. This can be helped by providing a heat source under the covering. A safe, easy way to do this is to wrap or drape the plant with small outdoor Christmas lights. The lights provide heat but do not get hot enough to burn the plant or cover. Be careful and use only outdoor extension cords and sockets.

WATER LOSS

Protection should be offered to evergreen plants by reducing water loss. Plants transpire water through their leaves. Evergreen plants continue to lose water during the winter, therefore, adequate moisture must be taken up by an evergreen plants’ roots during this season. Homeowners are more conscious of watering shrubs during the summer months and often this garden chore is neglected during cold weather.

An evergreen plants’ roots will absorb moisture when it is available, but when the ground is frozen, adequate moisture may not be available. Evergreen plants continue to transpire water, drawing moisture from living plant cells. If too much water is derived from this source, the leaves and stems dry out and die.

WIND PROTECTION

High winds and a warm sun on cold days result in a higher rate of water transpiration. Protection could be offered by planting susceptible plants in sheltered locations and providing additional water and coverings during expected periods of high winds and cold temperatures.

MULCHES

Sufficient layers of mulch material is always recommended during winter months after the first freeze. Mulches reduce water loss from the soil, thus helping to prevent drying of plant tissues. Mulches also reduce ‘heaving’ of the soil as the soil freezes and thaws.

To protect plants from cold damage, the following 6 steps are suggested:

1. Plant only varieties that are hardy to your area.
2. If you have a choice, locate less hardy plants in the highest part of the yard. Cold air settles to the lowest part of the yard.
3. Protect sensitive plants from cold winds. A fence or tall evergreen hedge of trees or shrubs gives good protection.
4. Shade plants from direct winter sun, especially early morning sun. Plants that freeze slowly and thaw slowly will be damaged the least. Obviously, the south side of the house with no shade is the worse place for tender plants.
5. Stop feeding plants quickly-available nitrogen in late summer. Let them “harden off” before cold weather.
6. A covering of plastic is excellent protection. Build a frame over the plant or plants, cover with plastic and seal plastic to the ground with soil. Shade plastic to keep temperature from building up inside. This plastic traps moisture and warm air as it radiates from the soil. It also knocks off cold wind. Be certain not to allow plastic to come in contact with plants.

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Resource(s): Winter Protection of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 247

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

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Perhaps the most important factor in developing and maintaining an attractive and problem-free lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area and has the qualities you desire. Zoysiagrasses are grown throughout Georgia.

Zoysiagrass (Zoysia Spp)

Several species and/or cultivars of zoysiagrasses are available in Georgia. Most are adapted to the entire state and form an excellent turf when properly established and managed. For the best appearance, most zoysias require cutting with a reel mower, periodic dethatching, and more frequent irrigation than other warm season turfgrasses. The zoysias form a dense, attractive turf in full sun and partial shade, but may thin out in dense shade. Most zoysias grow very slowly when compared to other grasses. They usually are established by sodding, plugging, or sprigging.

The zoysiagrasses are (1) slow to cover completely, thus more costly to establish; (2) less drought-tolerant than Common bermudagrass; and (3) recommended for lawn use only when the homeowner is willing to provide the required maintenance.

, also called “Z-52,” is an improved selection of Zoysia japonica. It has medium leaf texture, good cold tolerance, and spreads more rapidly than the other zoysiagrasses.

 

This is the zoysia often advertised as the “super” grass in newspapers and magazines. These advertising claims are true in part, but do not tell the entire story.

Emerald zoysia is a hybrid between Zoysia japonica and Zoysia tenuifolia that was developed in Tifton, Georgia. It has a dark green color, a very fine leaf texture, good shade tolerance, high shoot density, and a low growth habit. Emerald will develop excess thatch rather quickly if over fertilized and its cold tolerance makes it more susceptible to winter injury from the Atlanta area and north.

El Toro is a relatively new zoysia that was developed in California and looks like Meyer. El Toro is the fastest growing zoysia, tolerates mowing with a rotary mower, and produces less thatch than Meyer.

Newer cultivars grown in Georgia:

• Cavalier zoysia is a vegetatively reproduced and is suitable for sports fields, golf course fairways, tee boxes and home lawns. The variety is patented and must be sold as certified grass by licensed growers.
• Companion zoysia is one of the newer zoysiagrasses that can be planted by seed. It is intermediate in growth habit between Meyer and the more open-growing, coarse leaf types of common zoysia.
• Empire zoysia has broaderleaves, is more aggressive than Meyer or El Toro and is available through licensed growers only.
• Empress zoysia is finer bladed than Meyer but not as fine as Emerald Zoysia, is suited for use in home lawns, golf courses, parks and sports fields and is available through licensed growers.
• Palisades zoysia is a vegetatively reproduced zoysia that is suitable for home lawns, golf fairways and roughs. The variety is patented and must be sold as certified grass by licensed growers.
• Zenith zoysia is one of the few seeded cultivars and has a leaf texture slightly coarser than Meyer. It is intermediate in growth habit, taller than Meyer and shorter than the common types. It is adapted for golf course, athletic field and residential use.
• Zeon zoysia is a vegetatively produced zoysia that is fine textured like Emerald Zoysia but produces less thatch. Zeon was ranked higher in turf quality than Emerald or Meyer in a national study and is available through licensed growers.
• For more information see Cooperative Extension Service Leaflet No. 395, Zoysiagrass Lawns.

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Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 127

Source(s): Kim D. Coder, Professor of Community Forestry, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia

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Have you winterized your trees yet? Fall is a time of serious change and reorganization within a tree. Many trees will not survive to grow in another Spring. You can help your trees survive and thrive.

Trees sense the changing seasons by the temperature, by a dormancy timer in the leaves, and by the amount of light they receive. The old leaves, buds, and inner bark all have a pigment that reads the seasons of the year. As the days shorten in fall, this pigment called phytochrome, tells the tree to close-down for the winter.

Getting ready for winter in an organized way is called senescence. Within a tree, a message is sent from the tissues with phytochrome which signals senescence. Senescence in trees is an ordered shutting-down of summer growth and the conservation of valuable resources. Senescence brings both the fall colors and leads to renewed spring growth.

Many of the materials a tree collected or manufactured during the growth season are withdrawn from soon-to-be dead leaves. Tree waste materials are left behind. The last bit of tree food is stockpiled in the living cells of the outer annual growth rings. Twigs, branches, and roots become the collection sites and warehouses of materials needed for another season to come.

Within the tree, biological doors and windows are being closed and locked. From the moment last Spring’s green leaved expanded and began to make food, winter dormancy has been designed into the tree system. The process of spring and summer growth reset and started a dormancy timer that now hurries the tree preparations.

The tree-filled landscapes this time of year can be mistakenly thought to be asleep. Fall and winter trees are not sleeping, but are simply still — truly counting the days until Spring.

Most of the growing points in the tree are protected inside overcoats called buds. Each growing point waits for the correct message to signal a new season of growth. Only then will it be apparent whether the tree has put aside and saved enough resources to respond to the new season of growth. Winter is a difficult time for trees. Trees must stand in the face of drying and cold winds. Food reserves must be carefully conserved for the coming needs of Spring. Water continues to be lost from the tree. Any creature needing a meal chews and nibbles on the resting buds and twigs. Trees stand alone against all circumstances that the winter season can generate.

What can you do to help your valuable trees? Little things can make your trees more effective and efficient at surviving a long winter. A few small investments now can pay-off in a large way, yielding a healthy and structurally sound tree.

The “Top 10 List” of things you can do to winterize your tree include:

• Remove or correct structural faults and deadwood that are clearly visible. Try to make small pruning cuts that minimize the exposure of the central heartwood core on branches.
• Properly prune branches that will touch the ground when loaded with rain and snow. Foliage and branches that are in contact with soil can invite undesirable pests and problems.
• Remove damaged and declining twigs, branches, and bark. Do not leave pests food and shelter for the winter.
• Remove any new sprouts that have grown at the tree base, or along stems and branches. Pruning should conserve as many living branches as possible with only a few selective cuts.
• Spread a thin layer of composted organic mulch to blanket the soil. Cover an area at least as large as the branch spread. Mulch is nature’s of recycling valuable materials, but be careful of pests hitching a ride.
• Properly wrap new trees that have not developed a corky bark and could be easily damaged. Mechanical injury from the environment, including chewing and rubbing by animals, must be prevented.
• Aerate soils if they are compacted and poorly drained. It is critical not to damage tree roots in the soil. Saturated and dense soil can suffocate roots.
• Fertilize with all the essential elements, if they are in short supply within the soil. Be sure to go lightly with nitrogen, especially under large, mature trees and around newly planted trees. It is critical to use slow release nitrogen sources for fall fertilization.
• Watering may be needed where soils are cool but not frozen, and there has been little precipitation. Winter droughts need treatment with water the same as summer droughts, except it is much easier to over-water in winter.
• Trees are investments that require a small amount of care. For the sake of your tree’s quality of life and your own, take a few minutes to winterize your tree. Wonderful springs come from well-tended winters.

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Center Publication Number: 222

Source(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia

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Hand-held and backpack sprayers are extremely useful for treating small turf areas infested with weeds. But they have to be calibrated to apply the recommended rate of a herbicide.

Most herbicides used in turf grasses control weeds without injuring the turf. But that depends on the rate applied. The rate is usually on the product label as the amount to be applied to 1 acre or 1,000 square feet.

For example, the highest recommended rate of Trimec Classic for Bermuda grass and tall fescue is 1.5 fluid ounces per 1,000 square feet.

Applied at this rate and by the label directions, it will cause only slight injury to labeled turf grasses. But if you apply three times that amount, some turf grasses would be yellow or brown for weeks.

If a sprayer isn’t calibrated, it can’t apply herbicides at recommended rates.

It’s simple

You can use a number of methods to calibrate sprayers. One that’s simple, easy to do and easy to remember is called the 1/128th-acre method.

In this method, you spray 1/128th of an acre. That’s 340.3 square feet. This figures out to 18.5 feet by 18.5 feet. Here’s how to do it.

1. Mark off a plot 18.5 feet by 18.5 feet.
2. Fill the sprayer to normal capacity with water.
3. Pump the sprayer to the pressure normally used to apply herbicides.
4. Spray water over the plot area while maintaining normal and constant operating pressure.
5. Record the time in seconds it takes to spray the plot area.
6. Using the same constant pressure used in step 4, spray into a bucket for the same time (number of seconds) it took to spray the plot area.
7. Measure the volume of water in fluid ounces.

The number of fluid ounces you collect is equal to number of gallons the sprayer would apply to 1 acre if you use it at the same pressure and walking speed you used in the plot area.

This quick conversion works since there are 128 fluid ounces in 1 gallon of water. It doesn’t get much easier than this. Now all you have to do is find out how much herbicide to add to the pump-up sprayer.

How it applies

Let’s say your sprayer applies 25 gallons per acre. The right rate for Trimec Classic is 4.0 pints, or 0.5 gallons, per acre. So divide 0.5 by 25 to get 0.02, or 2 percent.

Multiply that by the sprayer capacity. A 2-gallon sprayer would hold 256 fluid ounces, and 256 times 2 percent would be 5.1 ounces. So add 5.1 ounces of Trimec Classic to the sprayer. Then fill it to the 2-gallon mark with water.

Remember, you have to walk at the same speed, maintain the same pressure and hold the spray nozzle tip at the same height you used in the plot area.

If you do these things, you’ll apply the recommended rate of the herbicide, control the target weed and, most important, drastically reduce the chance of injuring your turf grass.

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Reviewer(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia, November 2005.

Center Publication Number: 153

Source(s): Stephen D Pettis

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There are many species of butterflies but one thing about all of them is true; they are all lovely. Most folks despise most insects but few people do not welcome these insects into their gardens. Many gardeners actually plant flowers and flowering trees and shrubs to attract these summer time friends.

The key to successful butterfly gardening is to select a variety of flowering plants so butterflies are attracted to the food source all summer long. Plant annuals, perennials, and flowering trees and shrubs to attract a variety of butterflies consistently. Utilize plants of different colors as well. Plants such as daisies, Queen Ann’s lace, yarrow, alyssum, golden rod, alfalfa, clovers, and vetches will attract beneficial insects. Keeping your plants flowering for as long as possible is another key to having a consistent variety of butterfly attracting plants. Annuals and perennials benefit from ‘deadheading’ or removing spent flowers. Pinching off old flowers stimulates herbaceous plants to produce more blooms for longer periods of time. Be sure however to leave the very last set of flowers if you wish to collect seed.

Flowering trees and shrubs benefit from pruning at the appropriate time. Plants such as hydrangea and forsythia should be pruned in early summer after flowering. Shrubs such as hollies and butterfly bushes benefit from an early spring pruning to stimulate new shoot growth. Proper fertility keeps plants growing vigorously and provides new shoots, flowers, and fruit with the extra nutrients they need to really put on a show. Irrigate in a timely manner.

Water sources attract butterflies. Birdbaths, temporary puddles, small dishes of water, and dripping water can be easily installed in any garden. Remember to replace your water every few days to avoid mosquitoes and to keep it attractive. Place small ‘perches’ in water sources so that insects can access the water. The final way to encourage butterflies is to provide them shelter. Areas that are left undisturbed benefit insects. Allow forest edges to grow wild and do not mow open areas unnecessarily. Plant perennial flowerbeds that will flower all season by staggering different species throughout the bed. Hedgerows also provide beneficial insects with shelter.

Plants for a Butterfly Garden	Plant type	Flowering time	Favored Soil Situation	Sun or Shade
Hydrangea quercifolia, Oakleaf Hydrangea	Shrub	Late May-July persisting	Moist loam	Partial shade
Callicarpa Americana, American Beautyberry	Shrub	June	Dry loam	Partial shade
Lilium longiflorum, Easter Lily	Perennial	April-May	Moist loam	Full Sun
Hemracolis spp., Daylily	Perennial	May-July	Dry loam/clay	Full Sun
Achillea filipendulina, Yarrow	Perennial	May-August	Dry clay	Full Sun
Iris xiphium, Dutch Iris	Perennial	April	Dry clay	Full Sun
Rudbeckia hirta, Black-eyed Susan	Perennial	June-August	Dry clay	Full Sun
Ageratum eupatorium, Floss Flower	Perennial	May-October	Moist loam	Full Sun
Centaurea cyanus,Corn Flowers	Annual	March-May	Moist loam	Full Sun
Lantana camara, Lantana	Shrub	June –September	Dry clay	Full Sun
Buddleia davidii, Butterfly Bush	Shrub	June-September	Dry Clay	Full Sun
Milkweed Asclepias spp.	Annual	Mid June	Moist loam	Full Sun
Sunflower	Annual	June-August	Moist loam	Full Sun
Ilex verticillata, Winterberry	Shrub	December- January	Moist loam	Full Sun
Cleome hasslerana, Cleome	Annual	May-September	Summer to early fall	Full Sun
Cosmos spp., Cosmos	Annual	May- September	Spring to early fall	Full Sun
Lunaria annua, Money Plant	Biennial	April- May	Spring to mid summer	Full Sun
Delphinium spp., Larkspur	Annual	April- May	Spring	Full Sun

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Resource(s): Flowering Perennials for Georgia Gardens

Center Publication Number: 110

Source(s): Jacob G Price

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Mature palms are the primary host for Ganoderma zonatum. G. zonatum is a lethal fungal disease in which there are no labeled fungicides. Infected palms are found in all situations and environments. The fungus is an increasing problem in Florida and has occurred in Georgia and South Carolina.

Symptoms/Signs of Infection

First symptom is wilting of older leaves and light green or yellow new leaves. The only positive confirmation of Ganoderma is formation of conks as shown above. Cross section of the trunk at the soil line reveals decay that is widest at the base and travels up the center of the trunk no more than five feet. The presence of any conk on a palm is probably G. zonatum.

Disease Dissemination

G. zonatum is thought to be spread by spores from conks of infected trees.

Disease Management

No fungicides are recommended for the disease. Remove and incinerate conks and the infected portions of the palm along with the stump and roots. Avoid wetting the palm base and mounding mulch next to the trunk. Soil fumigation may help remove spores. Palms should be monitored every six months where no infection has been found and monthly where the disease is confirmed. The length of time between infection and conk formation is not known therefore imported palms may carry the fungus.

Re-planting

Do not plant a palm where an infected palm was removed. No other plant species are infected with G. zonatum so replacement with any other plant material is acceptable.

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Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 117