Standard tree planting language was established through publication of the ANSI A300 transplanting standard most recent addition. Although the standard encourages the profession to write detailed planting specifications, few have become readily available or recognized. As a result, many in the green industry use out-of-date specifications.
Dr. Ed Gilman from University of Florida, Jim Urban, FASLA, and Brian Kempf and Tyson Carroll of the Urban Tree Foundation have developed a modern, up to date and peer reviewed set of details and specifications in AutoCAD and PDF formats for the green industry. These are designed specifically for landscape architects, engineers, architects, contractors, urban foresters, arborists, municipalities and state agencies. All are open source, free and can be edited by the user. You and your colleagues are free to use them in projects without charge and without credit to the Urban Tree Foundation or any of the project team members. Although we encourage modification to fit your specific site and project needs, make your changes only after carefully considering all the pertinent variables at the planting site.
Funding for this project was provided by the California Department of Forestry (CDF), Urban Forestry Program. A special thanks to all reviewers of this project.
A common rose problem this year is injury caused by rose sawflies, also known as rose slugs.
These insects do not discriminate on the types of roses on which they feed. Even ‘Knock Out’ roses make a tasty meal for these critters. Home gardeners often ask why ‘Knock Out’ roses are affected if they are supposed to be problem-free. These roses are bred for resistance to certain diseases, like black spot, but are still damaged by a variety of rose-loving insects.
Sawfly larvae
Sawfly larvae look similar to the caterpillar stages of moths and butterflies, but have six or more pairs of prolegs behind the three pairs of true legs on their body. True caterpillars have fewer prolegs.
Caterpillars can also affect roses in the spring, but the damage they cause is slightly different. Caterpillars chew large holes in the leaves. Sawfly larvae chew a thin layer off the surface of leaves, leaving a skeletonized appearance.
If you hold up an affected leaf, you can see light shining through it. This unique “window pane” damage is a classic sign of sawflies. If you look carefully, you might even find a few, tiny, slug-like larvae on the leaves.
Sawfly damage
Some sawfly species can chew holes through the leaves as they get older, but usually you will see both types of damage on the same plant. Sawfly larvae eventually become small, non-stinging wasps that feed on other insects.
Begin scouting for sawflies in April or early May. Most sawfly species feed through June and will not return again until next spring. The larvae are often found on the undersides of the leaves, so inspect both sides of the leaves carefully. Keep in mind that the damage caused by sawflies is only to the leaves and mainly affects the appearance of the plant. Plants that are otherwise healthy can tolerate significant feeding damage and will usually put out new leaves by mid-summer.
Sawfly control
Sawflies are best controlled when they’re young. You can simply pick them off by hand. A forceful spray of water from a hose can also knock off sawflies. Once dislodged, they cannot climb back onto the plant.
Synthetic insecticides that control sawflies include acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin), malathion and various pyrethroids. Avoid using insecticidal dusts and spraying flowers, as many insecticides are highly toxic to bees and other pollinators.
Imidacloprid (Bayer Advanced), a systemic insecticide, can be applied to the soil around the roses in spring before feeding activity is noticed. However, once the damage is noticed, it is usually too late for a systemic product to be effective.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) products are effective against leaf-feeding caterpillars, but not on sawflies.
Nine-banded Armadillo, Alfred Viola, Northeastern University, Bugwood.org
Michael Mengak, Warnell School of Forestry & Natural Resources
I have recently received several calls about armadillo problems.
There are no repellents or poisons registered for armadillo.
Armadillo are not protected in Georgia – it is legal to hunt or shoot at any time UNLESS it is illegal in your city or county or prohibited by local ordinance. This is generally not a viable option in urban areas. You are responsible for following all local laws and ordinances.
For trapping, use a wood box trap. Traps that have previously caught an armadillo are more likely to catch another one. However, there is no bait or lure that will work on getting an armadillo into a trap.
The double door trap works better for armadillo (one that has an open door on each end) so the animal can more easily “wander” into the trap from either direction.
In a study at Mississippi State in 2009, they reported that 23 armadillos were caught in wooden box traps and only 3 were caught in standard wire cage traps. Here is a link to that study.
Michael Mengak, Warnell School of Forestry & Natural Resources
I have recently received several calls about armadillo problems.
There are no repellents or poisons registered for armadillo.
Armadillo are not protected in Georgia – it is legal to hunt or shoot at any time UNLESS it is illegal in your city or county or prohibited by local ordinance. This is generally not a viable option in urban areas. You are responsible for following all local laws and ordinances.
For trapping, use a wood box trap. Traps that have previously caught an armadillo are more likely to catch another one. However, there is no bait or lure that will work on getting an armadillo into a trap.
In a study at Mississippi State in 2009, they reported that 23 armadillos were caught in wooden box traps and only 3 were caught in standard wire cage traps. Here is a link to that study.
By being part of a Georgia community garden you are already doing quite a bit. Community gardens help the environment in several ways.
Pollinator Conservation
As a vegetable gardener you know how important those pollinators are to your food production. You may have a special pollinator garden area and you are very careful about the use of pesticides. This example teaches new gardeners and garden visitors to also protect pollinators. The result is not only a healthy pollinator population in your garden, but in the surrounding community as well.
Bee on Zinnia – a great pollinator plant!
Locally Grown Food
Growing food locally in your garden means that a bit less food is shipped across country saving gas, limiting air pollution, and lowering refrigeration energy.
NF Annex CG Composting System
Soil Health
Hopefully you have had a soil test. You know what nutrients to add to your soil so that you are not over-fertilizing. Overuse of fertilizers is a big pollution concern. Unused fertilizer can end up in streams and rivers. By meeting just your soil needs you are cutting down on pollution. Maybe you all have a compost system where you change garden waste into soil compost. Talk about recycling!
Environmental Awareness
Just by having a garden in your community you have raised environmental awareness. No doubt you have had people stopping by as you all are working to ask questions about the garden. And no doubt you told those people, with pride, about your sustainable growing practices. You probably gave them a tour telling them about the food crops you are growing. Those people may not become gardeners but they are now more aware of where food comes from and what it takes to grow it!
However you decide to celebrate Earth Day today take a moment and reflect on what you are already doing for our earth on a daily basis.
Nine-banded Armadillo, Alfred Viola, Northeastern University, Bugwood.org
Michael Mengak, Warnell School of Forestry & Natural Resources
I have recently received several calls about armadillo problems.
There are no repellents or poisons registered for armadillo.
Armadillo are not protected in Georgia – it is legal to hunt or shoot at any time UNLESS it is illegal in your city or county or prohibited by local ordinance. This is generally not a viable option in urban areas. You are responsible for following all local laws and ordinances.
For trapping, use a wood box trap. Traps that have previously caught an armadillo are more likely to catch another one. However, there is no bait or lure that will work on getting an armadillo into a trap.
The double door trap works better for armadillo (one that has an open door on each end) so the animal can more easily “wander” into the trap from either direction.
In a study at Mississippi State in 2009, they reported that 23 armadillos were caught in wooden box traps and only 3 were caught in standard wire cage traps. Here is a link to that study.
Be on the lookout for fungus affecting native azaleas in Georgia
Dr. Marin Brewer at the University of Georgia is working on a fungus that affects Rhododendron canescens, which is commonly known as Piedmont Azalea, Pinxter Azalea, Wild Azalea, Sweet Mountain Azalea, or Wild Honeysuckle. The fungus, known as Exobasidium, forms a flower-shaped gall from the leaves of the azalea. The galls emerge in April and last into the summer.
Piedmont azalea (Rhododendron canescans)
If you see these flower-shaped galls on azalea in Georgia or have seen them in previous years please contact Dr. Marin Brewer at mtbrewer@uga.edu. We would like to collect them fresh and record their locations. They have been previously spotted in Florida and Alabama.
Dust bowl – Chris Johns/National Geographic/Getty Images
Eighty years ago, April 14, 1935, an ominous wall of blowing sand and dust swept across the Great Plains. This day is known in history as Black Sunday. During the 1930’s, the Dust Bowl days were a period during which huge dust storms ravaged the Midwest because of years of overplanting, poorly managed crops and severe drought conditions. During that massive storm, people were forced to crawl on hands and knees in search of shelter, literally unable to see their hands in front of their faces. Cars stalled and stopped in the choking dust. Many thought the end of the world had come.
Legacy of the Dust Bowl
In response to Black Sunday, and the damage caused by dust storms, Congress passed Public Law 74-46 on April 27, 1935, and recognized that “the wastage of soil and moisture resources on farm, grazing, and forest lands… is a menace to the national welfare.” This law established the Soil Conservation Service, now USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service, or NRCS. Since that time, our commitment to soil science and soil health has helped America’s private landowners implement conservation practices that protect and improve soil and other resources.
Healthy soils are the foundation of agriculture (and landscaping – editor’s note). In the face of mounting challenges, soil health is critical to our future.
As America’s agency for soil conservation, classification and studies, NRCS is excited that 2015 will bring worldwide attention to the importance of soil. During the International Year of Soils, and on Earth Day 2015, we have lots to celebrate. Thank you to the farmers, backyard gardeners and all of our nation’s conservationists who are doing their part to protect natural resources.
Ground bee nests are usually in groups – image taken by Diane Stephens, Houston County Master Gardener
Ground or Digger Bees Attack Lawns
The first sign of ground or digger bees in lawns may be strange little mounds of soil with a hole nearby. The ground bees will be flying over this area. Ground bees are solitary bees that dig and nest in the ground. These bees live one per hole but there may be many holes in an area creating ground bee communities. There are many types of ground bees that vary in color and range from one-half to three-quarter inch in length. Some types of solitary wasps live like this as well.
Female ground bees dig nests in the ground up to six or so inches deep in which to raise young. The bees pile earth around the sides of the hole. These bees can be very active in March and April. The female ground bee stocks the nest with pollen and nectar to feed the young bees. Some solitary wasps stock their nests with insects.
Ground bees typically cause little problem. The digging should not be enough to damage the lawn. The bees are not very aggressive and probably will not sting. You should be able to work and mow grass around them with few problems. People that are allergic to bee stings may want to be cautious when working around the bees.
Close up of ground bee nests – image taken by Diane Stephens, Houston County Master Gardener
We do not recommend chemical controls for ground bees or wasps. These bees can be beneficial – serving to pollinate plants or destroy harmful insects. They will probably only be around for four to six weeks and then disappear until next year.
If you must control them, use cultural controls.
Ground bees like dry soils. Water the soil when bees first become active. Apply one inch of water once a week if it does not rain.
Ground bees nest in dry areas where the grass is thin. Find and correct the problems making the turf thin. This may involve soil sampling, irrigation, soil aeration or other practices.
Find ways to thicken the turf in these areas to reduce ground bee problems. Know the needs of the turf grass and meet them!
In areas that will not grow grass, mulch the area.
If you must use a pesticide, watch during the day to see where the holes are located. After dark, dust these areas with carbaryl (sold under the name Sevin and other names) dust. A dust insecticide should cling to the bee’s body better than a spray. Keep people and pets out of the area while it is being treated.
The bees are not generally harmful and pesticides are toxic. The cure may be worse than the problem. Try to put up with the bees if you can. These bees may be difficult to control and may return year to year. If you have ongoing problems with them, follow all recommendations very carefully. See this site where I found much of this information http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/lawn/note100/note100.html
There is one large caution in connection with ground bees and wasps. Ground bees are not aggressive but can look like other bees and wasps that are very aggressive and harmful. Make absolutely certain that you are not dealing with a yellow jacket or bumble bee nest. Both of these insects can literally cover you with stings very quickly. They can also have extremely large nests in Georgia. If you ever get into trouble with these, run until you escape them. Running inside may help. Do not stop to swat, roll on the ground, etc.
One difference between ground bees and other bees or wasps is that ground bees live by themselves and make many holes in the ground. Yellow jackets and bumble bees have many insects per hole. Use the following from Dr. Will Hudson, UGA Entomologist, as a guide for identification.
Many holes with one 1 bee per hole = solitary bees (like ground bees) that sting only as a last resort.
One hole, many bees = social bees (like yellow jackets and bumble bees). Keep away! These are non-reproductive workers that will sacrifice themselves in defense of the nest.
For insects other than ground bees, you may want to hire a pest control company or a wildlife removal company. They should have the training and equipment to do the job properly.
Please share this information with others in the landscape industry. For more information:
When using potted plants in your Georgia community vegetable garden, start with healthy ones. Visit quality nurseries or plant stores and choose plants free from diseases and insects. You don’t want to bring home any problems. Check where the stem meets the soil for soft spots. Don’t choose plants that look wilted but have obviously been watered. That could be a sign of a soil borne disease.
Before planting your new vegetable plants, check the roots. Sometimes the plants can be root-bound or pot-bound. The plant was outgrowing the current container and the roots had no where to go in the pot but around the perimeter of the soil.
The roots of this plant need to be disturbed so they will easily grow in the new soil.
Before going into the ground these roots need to be broken apart so that they will venture out into the new soil. Otherwise, they may keep growing around the soil ball and the plants won’t thrive. Even after weeks of being in the ground, the plant will easily pull out of the planting hole. This is an unhealthy plant!
You can break apart roots with your hands or use scissors or a sharp knife (carefully!) to cut an incision into the root ball. You will need to go about 1 inch deep and about 3/4ths the way up on the root ball. After cutting gently pull the roots apart.
Cut about a 1 inch slit into opposite sides of the root ball.
Gently separate the roots using your hands.
Put the plant in the ground spreading the roots into the soil as much as possible. This may seem like tough love for an already developed root system but, your plants will be healthier and more productive in the long run. Remember, your local extension agent has all sorts of information on the correct way to plant just about anything!
University of Florida, IFAS. Info found in GUFC Tree Talks
