Articles

Source(s): Beverly Sparks, Retired, Associate Dean of Extension, Extension Entomologist, The University of Georgia, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

---

However much you might wish it, fire ants are unlikely to disappear from the face of the earth. With a little planning and a lot of persistence, though, they can disappear from your yard.

The planning is simple; making fire ants get out and staying out requires only two steps.

The key, though, is persistence: this isn’t a one-time treatment; it’s a control program that takes diligence and determination.

The first step is to broadcast a bait insecticide over the entire area.

Fire ant baits consist of pesticides on processed corn grits coated with soybean oil. Two are readily available to homeowners (Amdro and Award).

The best time to apply a bait is in spring or fall, although you can apply them anytime when ants are actively foraging for food.

The best results, use fresh bait and broadcast it when the ground and grass are dry. If you use a hand-held seed spreader, set the spreader at the smallest opening and make one or two passes over the lawn at a normal walking speed ( the recommended rate is 1 to 1 1/2 pounds per acre).

The second step is to treat problem mounds with an approved product that kills the ants on contact. Treat these mounds no sooner than three days after you apply the bait.

Treat only the mounds causing immediate problems, such as those next to high-traffic areas such as sidewalks, play equipment or building foundations.

Most mounds that get only the slower action bait will eventually be eliminated, and leaving bait-treated mounds may actually help keep new fire ant queens from reinfecting the area as quickly.

To get rid of fire ant mounds with chemicals, target the queen and brood (egg, larvae and pupae) inside the mound. You can reach that target with drenches, granular products, dusts, liquid fumigants or injectable products.

Products such as acephate(Orthene), malathion and carbaryl(Sevin) are available as liquid concentrates for drenching fire ant mounds.

Drench mounds when the queens and brood are close to the surface (spring, fall, or after rain). Don’t disturb the mound before you treat it.

Dilute the product to the labeled rate and then gently sprinkle the solution around and then on top of the mound. If usually takes one to three gallons of the diluted solution to properly treat a mound.

Several granular products are labeled to treat individual fire ant mounds. To apply one, sprinkle the recommended amount on top of and around the undisturbed mound. Then water it in.

Products containing acephate (Orthene) are specially labeled for dusting fire ant mounds. To apply these products, evenly distribute the recommended rate over the top of each mound. You don’t have to water them in.

Some fire ant products (MC 96 Fire Ant Killer) contain methyl chloroform, a liquid that , when it is poured into a mound quickly volatilizes into a heavier-than-air gas that “fumigates” the mound. Ants inside are killed immediately, but ants out foraging won’t be affected. Plants around the treatment area maybe injured, though.

Products containing pyrethrin insecticides are made in aerosol containers with injection rods to reach deep inside the mound.

Fumigants and injectable products are expensive, but tend to be effective faster than mound drenches.

If you use this plan – broadcasting a bait, then treating problem mounds – expect greater than 90 percent of the fire ant mounds in the treated area to gone within 10-12 weeks.

However, the area will become reinfested by mated fire ant queens within six to twelve months if you don’t repeat the control programs on a regular schedule.

That’s where the persistence comes in.

To keep area free of fire ants, repeat the broadcast bait application every six months and then treat individual mounds as needed.

---

Center Publication Number: 9

Source(s): Randy Drinkard

---

Beautiful houseplants can add color and charm to any household. But providing the optimum growing conditions can often be a challenge for even the best of gardeners.

Low light, low humidity, dry air and too much soil moisture are the primary culprits that can weaken and destroy our indoor plants. Proper management of these growing factors, of course, is essential to your maintaining healthy, vigorous houseplants. How then, you may ask, do I know what to do to correct the problem before it is too late? That is a good question, but even inexperienced growers can look for certain danger signs that plants show when they are under stress. You can then usually tell what you are doing wrong and take corrective action to revive your plants.

Listed below are the eight most common symptoms expressed by ‘sick’ plants and help tips.

1. Stems grow abnormally long; leaves become long and pale and new leaves are undersized; growth is weak or spindly: This is almost always due to insufficient light. Give your plants more light by placing them closer to a window or supply supplemental lighting via grow lights.
2. Stems become soft or mushy, dark in color and rotten; lower leaves curl and wilt; soil at the top of the pot is constantly wet: Too much water is the cause. Do not water as frequently or water when the soil is dry to the touch approximately one to two inches below the surface. Sometimes the soil surface may be dry but the root zone may be saturated. Continuing to water plants that are growing in over-saturated soils will inevitably lead to root rot. Make sure that your pot’s drainage hole is not clogged and don’t let your plants sit in water-filled saucers for more than an hour.
3. Wilted foliage: This can actually be caused by underwatering or overwatering. Also, excessive amounts of fertilizers can draw water from the roots, causing the plant to wilt. If the plant has a root or stem disease, this will prevent water uptake, causing the plant to wilt. Other causes of wilting are low humidity, moving shock, a sudden change in light or temperature, cold or hot drafts, high heat or frost damage.
4. Defoliation: Rapid defoliation may be caused by extremes in temperature, changes in light, overwatering or underwatering and exposure to cold and disease. Gradual defoliation, as when the lower leaves turn yellow and drop, can be caused by over watering(root rot), underwatering, lack of sufficient light, low fertility or disease. Keep in mind that an occasional leaf may drop due to natural aging. . .which is normal.
5. Leaves yellowed, wilted and/or mottled: This is often caused by too much water which in turn causes root rot. As mentioned earlier, do not let your plants stand in water. Yellowing may also be caused by severe insect infestations(scale or spidermites),

   very low light, high temperatures or insufficient amounts of plant fertilizer. [Older plants may become pot-bound and a yellowed or wilted condition usually develops. In this case, repot to a larger container using fresh potting soil].

6. Browning of leaf tips: Low humidity, excess fertilizer, water that is high in fluorine, spray damage from pesticides, unfavorable soil reaction(a high or low soil pH), air pollutants or root loss due to excessive water in the soil will cause tips to brown. Water that contains fluorine should be allowed to sit for several days before using so that the fluorine may bubble out. Simply trim away any brown tips with sharp scissors to improve the looks of your houseplants.
7. Leaf edges are crinkly and brown: This is caused by low humidity. Increase humidity by grouping plants or by placing them on a bed of moistened pebbles in a tray. Misting helps, too. You may also want to consider placing a cool-vapor humidifier in your plant room to increase humidity.
8. Rot at soil level: This is usually caused by over watering, yet plants that are set too deeply or a fungal or bacterial disease may be the problem. In most cases you will have to discard the plant, although you may be able to start new plants by taking cuttings from upper sections that are healthy.

---

Center Publication Number: 109

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

---

Grass, like all other plants, requires nutrients for growth. Unfortunately, most soils in Georgia are naturally not rich in all these nutrients. Therefore, apply fertilizers to supply those elements not present in the native soil.

The three macronutrients are: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Of these, nitrogen is required in largest quantities, potassium second and phosphorus third. Most home lawn fertilizers sold in Georgia contain these three macronutrients in the largest amounts.

Fertilization programs should be based on turfgrass requirements, soil tests, maintenance practices, and desired appearance. For example, the bermudagrasses have a larger nitrogen requirement than most turfgrasses. A soil test is needed to determine the supply of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. When grass clippings are removed, the amount of fertilizer needed may be doubled. Increased irrigation on sandy soils will also increase fertilizer requirements. Finally, a higher quality, dark green lawn will require more nitrogen, as well as more clipping and watering.

Some considerations for determining what fertilizer material to use are ease of handling, price and availability. Since nitrogen is the key nutrient for lawn grasses, it is important to understand the differences in the nitrogen sources. There are three types of nitrogen carriers:

1. synthetic inorganic,
2. organic, and
3. synthetic organic.

Synthetic Inorganic Nitrogen Carriers

Ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate are examples of synthetic inorganic nitrogen carriers. Some advantages are:

• rapid initial plant response,
• minimum temperature dependence, and
• lower cost per unit of nitrogen.

Disadvantages are:

• subject to loss by leaching in the nitrate form,
• high foliar burn potential, and
• a rapid surge in growth.

Natural Organic Nitrogen Carriers

This is nitrogen bound in complex organic compounds such as decayed living matter, sewage sludge, manures, and bone meal. Nitrogen released from these compounds is dependent upon microorganisms to break down organic matter. Advantages are:

• low foliar burn potential,
• longer lasting,
• very little leaching and
• more even growth of grass.

Some disadvantages are:

• low analysis, thus requiring a great deal of bulk,
• slow response and

at low temperatures, very little nitrogen is released through microorganisms activity.

Synthetic Organic Nitrogen Carriers

These nitrogen carriers are synthesized in the laboratory and can be divided into two groups:

1. primarily water soluble compounds and
2. primarily water insoluble compounds.

The water soluble compounds, such as urea, resemble the synthetic inorganic carriers in their activity, while the water insoluble compounds, such as urea formaldehyde, resemble the natural organic carriers in their activity.

Most mixed fertilizers contain more than one source of nitrogen. 12-4-8 is one example of a mixed fertilizer containing several different sources of nitrogen.

Guaranteed Analysis: 12-4-8

• Total Nitrogen(N) = 12%
  • 6.50% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
  • 1.00% Nitrate Nitrogen
  • 0.90% Other Water Soluble Nitrogen
  • 3.60% Water Insoluble Nitrogen
• Available Phosphate Acid(P205) = 4%
• Soluble Potash(K20) = 8%
• Total Available Plant Food, Not Less than = 24%

Fertilizer Programs

Applying fertilizer at the right time is as important as knowing what fertilizer to apply. Generally, spring and fall fertilization with a complete fertilizer (contains N, P and K) is recommended for the warm-season grasses. The spring application should be made about the time the grass begins to green-up and grow. The fall application should be made about 6 weeks before the average first frost date. Normally, the first frost date ranges from the latter part of October in the piedmont area to the end of November on the coast.

In the absence of soil test recommendations, the complete fertilizer used can range from 16-4-8 to 10-10-10 and 5-10-15, etc. Most of the warm-season grasses require 3 to 7 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year to remain hardy and attractive. This fertilizer is usually applied in 3 to 5 applications during the growing season. A typical example would be 10 pounds of 12-4-8 per 1000 square feet in early spring when green-up begins, 10 more pounds in mid-summer, and 6-8 weeks before the average first frost date. This gives a total of 3.6 pounds of nitrogen.

Proper fertilization of centipedegrass is very important to its survival. Most people tend to over-fertilize centipede. One pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year is ample nitrogen on most centipede lawns. On sandy soils in high rainfall areas, 2 pounds per 1000 square feet per year may be needed. Apply 5 pounds of 12-4-8 per 1000 square feet in early spring. If a second application is needed, apply 5 pounds of 12-4-8 per 1000 square feet in early August. Never apply lime to a centipede lawn unless soil tests show that the pH is extremely low. If the grass shows signs of iron chlorosis, which is observed by the yellowing of leaves, apply ferrous sulfate at the rate of one tablespoon per 3 gallons of water to each 1000 square feet of grass.

The cool-season grasses, such as tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, normally should receive the majority of their fertilizer requirements in the fall. An example of cool-season grass fertilization would be 10-15 pounds of 16-4-8 per 1000 square feet in early September and April. Additional nitrogen or complete fertilizer may be applied in November if desired.

Fertilizer Application

Listed below are some key points to remember when applying fertilizer.

• Don’t apply fertilizer when the grass leaves are wet. This can increase the potential of leaf burn.
• Use a mechanical spreader to distribute the fertilizer. Don’t apply it by hand. Use the two direction application procedure as described for seeding.
• If possible, water all fertilizer applications thoroughly.

Soil Acidity

Another important factor in plant growth is the soil acidity level. This is measured in terms of a pH scale which is graduated from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. Any number below 7.0 is considered acid with 5.0 being more acid than 6.0. Any number above 7.0 is considered basic with 9.0 being more basic than 8.0. Most turfgrasses, with the exception of centipedegrass and carpet grass, grow best at a pH of 6.0-6.5. Centipedegrass and carpet grass grow best at a pH of 4.5- 5.5. A pH either too low to too high will reduce the availability of plant nutrients. Therefore, it is very important that a proper pH be maintained.

Lime

If the soil becomes too acid, correct this by applying lime. Use a good agriculture grade of limestone. In most cases, a dolomitic source of limestone should be used. Base all lime applications on soil test results.

More detailed information concerning fertilization can be obtained in the Fertilization for Lawns, Bulletin No. 710.

---

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 136

Source(s): Faith Peppers, Extension News Editor, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

---

What’s the first thing most homeowners are tempted to do when the world begins to bloom in the spring and their lawn is still winter brown?

Fertilize!

But stop! Test your soil before you fertilize.

Using the wrong fertilizer or using fertilizer in the wrong amounts at the wrong time can actually harm your lawn or garden, said Owen Plank, a University of Georgia Extension Service agronomist and soil scientist.

If you have a low nutrient level and don’t put enough fertilizer out, or if you have a high test level and you don’t need fertilizer, you can adversely affect plant growth,” Plank said.

“This is particularly true with some turf grasses, like centipede,” he said. “If you overlime or over fertilize centipede, it can go into centipede decline, and over a few years you can lose the lawn.”

The wrong fertilizer on vegetable gardens can also induce problems.

“With vegetables, like tomatoes, one problem often encountered is blossom end rot,” Plank said. “Several factors can cause it, including inadequate calcium or too much nitrogen. You can induce blossom end rot with improper fertilization.”

Sometimes it’s a matter of timing.

“With certain grasses, the timing of the fertilizer application is critical,” Plank said. “A soil test also tells you what months you should fertilize your lawn.”

A simple soil test can help eliminate fertilizing mistakes and fertilizer waste.

“If a lawn had low pH and the owner didn’t know it, and applied a complete fertilizer to the soil,” Plank said, “nutrients like phosphorus would only be about 50 percent efficient. By knowing the condition of your soil, you can improve fertilizer efficiency.”

One easy soil test can be the fertility gauge for lawns, shrubs, trees, flowers and vegetable gardens.

“The two main reasons to conduct a soil test,” Plank said, “are to find out if the soil needs lime added and to find the relative fertility status of the site, which determines how much fertilizer will need to be applied to raise it to a sufficient level.”

The first step in soil-testing your lawn or garden is to drop by the county Extension office and pick up a leaflet that outlines the proper procedure.

“The leaflet will describe how and when to take the sample and what tools to use,” Plank said.

Once you gather a sample, return it to the Extension office to be shipped to the University of Georgia Soils Lab. Your sample should be analyzed and results returned in about seven days.

“For lawns and gardens, one basic test will take care of 99 percent of the situations encountered,” Plank explained. “That basic test determines the soil pH, lime requirement, phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium, zinc and manganese.”

From the soil test, recommendations are made regarding the amount and type of limestone to use and what fertilizer grade (10-10-10, 8-8-8, etc) to use.

Spring isn’t the only time for soil testing. A soil sample can be taken any time, depending on specific circumstances.

“People wait until early spring to send the samples in, and that’s OK,” Plank said. “But for those who need to lime their lawns or gardens, it’s preferable to test in the fall. You can lime over the winter and it can start reacting, so when the growing season arrives, the soil pH will be favorable for good growth.”

A soil test provides homeowners information essential for growing strong, healthy lawns. A routine soil test made through the Extension office is just $6.00.

---

Center Publication Number: 18

Source(s): Gerard Krewer

---

Newly-planted citrus plants should not be fertilized until growth begins in the spring. If possible use a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 which contains micronutrients. Also, many garden centers now sell fertilizers that are especially formulated for citrus plants.

A suggested fertilizer schedule for the first three years is given in the Table below. Fertilizer applications should be made between August 1 and February 15 during the first two years to avoid inducing untimely growth flushes during the winter.

During the first year, spread the fertilizer in a 30-inch circle and avoid placing any against the trunk. In subsequent years the fertilized area should be gradually increased. A good rule of thumb to follow is to fertilize an area twice the diameter of the tree canopy.

Ordinary lawn and shrub fertilizer may be used for citrus trees. However, this type of fertilization may only contain the primary plant food elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. For the best performance from citrus plants, a fertilizer which contains the secondary and micronutrients – magnesium, manganese and copper – is very beneficial. The latter two elements, plus zinc and boron as needed, may also be supplied through nutritional sprays. Some garden centers and nurseries sell special citrus fertilizers incorporating the micronutrients.

SUGGESTED FERTILIZER SCHEDULE*
(Pounds of 8-8-8 fertilizer per tree)
Growing Season	March 1	April 15-16	June 1-15	July 15-30
First	1/3**	1/2	2/3	1
Second	1	1/4	1/2	1/4
Third	3/4	2	1/2	3

*This schedule is designed for citrus plants which develop into medium to large trees. Only 1/2 these amounts or less will be needed for small, shrubby citrus plants such as kumquats, limequats, calamondins, etc.
**Make this application after growth begins in the spring, usually 4 to 6 weeks after planting.

---

Resource(s): Citrus Fruits for Southern and Coastal Georgia

Center Publication Number: 172

Source(s): Charles Seabrook, Science Writer, The Atlanta Journal-Constitution.

---

This is the time of year when many people ask questions about feeding birds, such as: how do I get started? what types of feeders should I use? where should I locate my feeders? what kinds of food do birds like most?

Perhaps the onset of cooler weather prompts more folks to start thinking about the little birds and how these creatures will survive the winter. Indeed, bird feeding was once considered primarily a winter activity. Although feeder food is most beneficial to birds during the cold months when natural food can be hard to find, you can start feeding during the fall.

Now is an excellent time to begin bird feeding. Once you start, continue stocking bird feeders throughout the fall and winter. To help you get started, here is some advice from various experts. The recommendations also might be helpful to those who have already set up backyard feeders but are having trouble attracting birds to them.

Feeder Types

Begin using only one or two feeders. Don’t add others until birds begin regularly showing up in your yard. For a variety of birds, a single hopper feeder or platform feeder will attract everything from titmice to Carolina chickadees and blue jays to red-bellied woodpeckers. Tube feeders also are popular with many species, including titmice, chickadees, goldfinches, cardinals, nuthatches, pine siskins and pine warblers. Suet feeders will attract titmice, chickadees, nuthatches and woodpeckers.

The simplest feeder, though, is the ground. Just scatter some seeds on the ground for birds like mourning doves, dark-eyed juncos, kinglets, towhees, chipping sparrows and other ground feeders.

Location

Place feeders at least 10 feet from cover, such as shrubs and trees. This way, birds can easily escape predators. This also helps to keep squirrels away from feeders. If a feeder must be located close to a shrub or tree, encircle the feeder’s base with wire fencing. This helps reduce the chances that raptors, cats and other predators will capture the feeding birds. Also, offer feed at different levels. Some birds prefer to feed at elevated feeders.

Food

Black oil sunflower seeds and white millet seeds attract the greatest variety of birds. The seeds can be purchased separately, but many homeowners prefer a mixture containing large amounts of both seeds. If birds are slow to visit feeders, add pieces of white bread to the seed. White bread, in fact, may draw birds to feeders when no other foods will. For an excellent list of recommended winter food for birds, visit the following website: “Feeding Birds”.

Water

Providing clean water for birds in winter is just as important as offering food. In fact, sometimes birds suffer more from lack of water than food. Keep the water level in your birdbath no more than an inch and a half deep. A flat rock in the middle of it helps provide stable footing on what might otherwise be a smooth and slippery surface.

Other Helpful Hints

Keep feeders clean. Stock them with only enough food to last a couple of days to keep the food free from harmful bacteria and fungi. Periodically wash feeders in a solution of 2 ounces of household bleach to 1 gallon of water. Thoroughly dry the feeders before refilling them with seed.

---

Center Publication Number: 226

Source(s): Karen Lutz, Cherokee County Master Gardener, with excerpts from various articles online

---

This explains how to use benefical insects for pest control in the garden

Harmful bugs account for only 1%-2% of the insect population. Here we review three basic ways to control pests in your garden without the use of chemicals but rather Mother Nature’s way:

Use of Carrot Family – Umbelliferous plants attract beneficial bugs

There are around 3000 species in the carrot family – mainly herbaceous plants native to temperate climates around the globe. What is common among them are their flower clusters, which resemble miniature flat-topped parasols. These are termed umbels from the latin word umbellula, meaning “umbrella.”

Niall Dunne of Brooklyn Botanic Garden notes that “Historically, unbellifers have been of enormous biological importance as crop plants. In modern times, however, they have something else going for them as well: they’re very attractive to beneficial insects – the so-called “good bugs” that act as pollinators, soil builders, or predators of pest insects in the landscape. Plants with umbels are magnets for predatory bugs in particular”.

Examples of umbellifers are: Dill, Coriander, Fennel, Parsnips, Cumin, Anise, Parsley, and Carrots. Lovage (Levisticum officinale) attracts ichneumon wasps, which parasitize the larvae of herbivorous insects. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) attracts lady beetles that prey on aphids, scale insects, thrips, mealybugs, and mites. Dill (Anethum graveolens) is good at drawing such insects as lacewings, whose larvae are known for devouring aphids.

What makes them so attractive to beneficial bugs? Dr. May Berenbaum, head of Entomology a the the University of Illinois , Urbana-Champaign, and author of Bugs in the System (Addison Wesley, 1995) says “Small flowers with accessible nectar and a nice landing platform.”

So gardeners interested in handling pests with natural predators are smart to incorporate members of the carrot family in their gardens.

Strategize – Increase the biodiversity of your garden

One would think that by simplifying things – spraying pesticides and growing just a few varieties of plants, would control pests, however, it actually encourages problems. By making the environment more complex (diverse), problems are less likely. Grow a wide range of plants (attracting beneficial bugs) and avoid broad-spectrum insecticides.

Release beneficial bugs

There are about 50 beneficial bugs raised and sold commercially today. They are either predators (eat or destroy other insects) or parasites (complete their lifecycles in a specific host). Examples include the following: ladybugs, lacewings, ground beetles, predatory stink bugs, spiders, wasps, dragonflies, damselflies, fireflies, praying mantis, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, assassin bugs and predatory nematodes.

Releasing large quantities of good bugs in your garden can help in several ways. They may eliminate the pests right away, then disperse and die off. They may establish a local population of beneficial offspring that live from year to year reducing pests. Or, they may consume a few pests and fly away.

How you release bugs is dependent upon the type of beneficial bug you buy. You must consider the bugs’ lifecycles, local temperatures, time of day/night, food source and the method used to disperse the insects. Always keep purchased bugs cool and watered before release.

Some general examples: (excerpts from homestore.com/HomeGarden and Howard Garrett’s Basic Organic Program)

• Wasps – Encarsia wasp parasitizes the whitefly especially well in greenhouses, but works outdoors as well when whiteflies attack tomatoes or other plants. Order this parasite as soon as you notice a whitefly population building. Good control occurs only when minimum average temperatures are at least 72 F (62 F at night and 82 F in day). At these temperatures the Encarsia wasp can develop as fast or faster than the whitefly population. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils that you might use on whiteflies don’t harm the wasps seriously. Two releases one to two weeks apart will last the whole season. Trichogramma wasps should be released from small containers or cards attached to plants that are having trouble with pecan casebearer, cabbage worms, tomato hornworms, corn earworms and other orchard pests. These beneficial insects are tiny, gnat-like parasitic wasps that kill the eggs of all sorts of caterpillars. Because it’s hard to spot pests’ eggs and because the Tricho wasps are usually cheap, the best strategy is to plan on weekly or biweekly releases to keep up with new egg laying. The wasps arrive ready to emerge from eggs of their insectary hosts, which are glued to a card. A succession of releases allows second generations to establish.
• Lacewings – larvae are voracious and sometimes called aphid lions. They will eat anything they can subdue including thrips and small caterpillars. They are most commonly sold as eggs, mixed with a carrier like bran or rice hulls. You can also buy the larvae, however, they cost about ten times as much as eggs but may be a good value since ants and other predators often eat lacewing eggs. Purchased eggs or larvae are best used as a biological insecticide – sprinkle them near a serious outbreak of a pest. The larvae will feed in the area as long as there is plenty of prey, and then disperse. There is little point in buying adult lacewings. It’s more economical to attract one of the dozens of species native to North America. No matter where you live, there should be wild lacewings nearby, though not in as dense a concentration as you get when you release 500 or more eggs from a supplier. The adults feed on nectar and honeydew produced by sucking insects such as aphids, leafhoppers, whiteflies and mealybugs. You can build up populations of wild lacewings by applying a sugar and protein mixutre that simulates this honeydew. Dribble it onto the foliage near your garden and especially near a pest outbreak. Commercial preparations of these insect foods have names like Pred-Feed and Bug-Chow.
• Beetles (ladybugs) – The most widely available biological control is the lady beetle, Hippodamia covergens, which feeds on small soft-bodied insects, especially aphids. These good bugs are field collected rather than reared in insectaries, largely because they aggregate in large masses in the foothills of California and are easily gathered when dormant. Releasing them in your garden is fun but does almost no good against a pest outbreak. Released preconditioned lady beetles (fed long enough to have mature eggs) will stay in your garden as long as the food supply lasts, eating aphids and laying eggs to produce larvae. Ladybugs can be purchased in mesh bags or in small box containers, which contain 1,500 bugs in a pint up to 70,000 bugs in a gallon. For aphid control, spray the foliage with water and release the bugs directly on the infested plants. Do it at dusk or early in the morning. You can concentrate local populations in your garden by attracting adults. Use the artificial honeydews and plant nectar and aphid- host sources, especially alyssum, legumes or flowers in the umbellifore family.
• Predatory Mites – Various species of mites are sold to control spider mites and thrips, especially on greenhouse crops and indoor plantings. Some of them also work on outbreaks on roses, strawberries, fruit trees, eggplant and other garden plants. Each species has different requirements for temperature and humidity, so discuss your needs with the supplier when you order. All predatory mites require high humidity (70% or more). They also prefer to forage on plants without hairy leaves. Release predatory mites early in the season. Watch for incipient spider mite or thrips populations, then order predatory mites immediately by phone. The mites are perishable and require special shipping, around $20 per 1,000. Your concentrated population of mites will disperse when the food source becomes scarce, so you will need to order more mites if outbreaks occur later in the season. Mites are very susceptible to soap sprays and other insecticides, so use soaps only before the mites arrive.
• Predatory Nematodes – Nematodes, or roundworms, teem in the soil of lawns and gardens. Some are major plant pests but the majority feed on soil microorganisms. A few prey on insects, injecting them with lethal bacterial, then feeding on the resultant “goo”. Several strains and species of predatory nematodes are produced and sold. Purchased nematodes generally need to be released annually to provide dependable control. New techniques of packaging mean nematodes can be stored several months at room temperature which is why they are showing up in garden centers.

Beneficial Insect Release Schedule (per acre or per residential lot)

• April- May: Release trichogramma wasps @ 10,000 to 20,000 eggs weekly for four to six weeks. Release green lacewings @ 4,000 eggs weekly for four weeks.
• May- September: Release ladybugs as needed on aphid infested plants. Release green lacewings @ 2,000 eggs every two weeks as needed.

The smart gardener can adequately control pests by incorporating all three of these methods into the garden landscape.

---

Resources

• www.planetnatural.com
• www.hgtv.com/hgtv/gl_diseases_pests_insects
• www.biconet.com/reference/HGbeneficials

Center Publication Number: 85

Source(s): Willie O Chance

---

Two types of caterpillars make webs in trees. The Eastern tent caterpillar makes webs in the forks of the branches. They are more of a problem early in the spring. The fall webworm makes their webs on the ends of the branches and is more prevalent in the late summer and fall. Fall webworms are the most visible since their webs are located on the end of the branches. Their webs remain in the tree after the webworms leave and the webs can collect until there are many in a tree.

Fall Webworms Description

Fall webworms can be up to one inch long. They come in two color forms. Those with black heads are yellowish white while those with red heads are brown. Fall webworms are covered with long, soft gray hairs.

Fall Webworms Behavior

Fall webworms will feed on more than 100 types of trees but they prefer trees like pecans, black walnut, mulberry, elm, sweetgum, willow, apple, ash and oak. I most often see them in pecan trees.

The caterpillars form fine silken webs on the ends of the branches. They will enlarge the webs if they need more leaves. They feed on the leaves in these webs for a couple of weeks before they leave the trees to become pupae. These pupae eventually turn into a white moth. This moth may have black spots. This moth can fly away to lay eggs on trees to start another generation of webworms. There can be up to four generations of fall webworms in a year. The webworms survive the winter as pupae in cocoons in protected places.

These caterpillars feed on the leaves of the tree. This hurts the tree some but the tree should recover. Healthy trees are able to withstand a great deal of insect damage to their leaves without lasting injury. I would not be concerned about insects feeding on healthy trees unless most of the leaves were gone. If trees are weakened, webworm infestation may damage or kill the tree.

Healthy trees can usually stand the loss of almost all their leaves and still live. This is true of most deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall) but not needled, evergreen trees like pines, cedars, junipers and other conifers. Evergreen trees with needles cannot withstand the loss of their leaves and must be better protected against loss of leaves. Fortunately, webworms do not like to attack needled evergreen trees.

Fall Webworms Control

Since most trees will not die from caterpillar attack, I do not generally recommend spraying. If you want to control the caterpillars by spraying, you must treat the entire tree – perhaps more than once. You will usually need to hire a tree service to do this. The person treating the tree will need to find some way to get the insecticide inside the webs to kill the caterpillars. For these reasons I generally suggest that we just live with these worms a while. They will eventually leave.

If you do decide to spray; use insecticidal soap, horticultural oils or Bacillus thuringiensis to kill small caterpillars. These insecticides are less likely to kill the natural predators that keep the levels of these webworms low. These chemicals are not good at killing large caterpillars. Watch the southern-most branches of trees in early spring to find the webs before the caterpillars get large. For larger caterpillars, use a chemical like cyfluthrin or bifenthrin. Once again – find a way to get the insecticide into the webs for best control.

Some people cut the branches off or burn out these webs. This may damage the tree more than the caterpillars would. I do not recommend that you do this. Put up with the fall webworms for a while and they should go away on their own.

---

Resource(s):

• Diagnosing Ornamental Plant and Turf Problems
• Fall Webworm
• Pest Management Handbook

Source(s): Ron Wolford

---

One cannot appreciate the damage ice causes to trees until they’ve experienced a heavy ice storm. Fortunately, major ice storms do not occur on a regular basis. The trees that normally take the brunt of the damage – Chinese and Siberian elms, poplars, silver maples, birches and willows – are the predictable victims. All of these species have brittle wood and are easily damaged by ice and wind storms.

Homeowners often plant fast-growing species like the ones mentioned above for rapid shade. Fast-growing trees normally have brittle wood and develop weak, V-shaped crotches that easily split apart under added weight. Often, trees with extensive internal rot and decay that may not have been evident from the exterior receive severe damage.

Many times these trees overhang the house, driveway or power lines servicing the home. When large limbs or tree tops are broken in an ice storm, they can cause major damage and expense.

For homeowners with trees with major limb or top damage, two questions should be addressed. The first one is: “Does the condition of the tree warrant efforts to save it or should it be removed?” Major tree repair can be quite expensive and should only be attempted if a major portion of the tree is still intact and efforts can be made to maintain its attractiveness and value to the property. If the whole side or top is gone, it’s questionable whether it’s worth spending the time and money to salvage the tree. This is especially true if it’s one with brittle wood that lends itself to similar problems in the future. While no one wants to remove a large, mature tree, the prudent decision may be to replace it with a young tree possessing desirable qualities.

The second question to consider is: “Can you handle the damage repair yourself or should you seek professional help?” Small limbs can be removed easily with pruning shears or a pole-lopper provided they are within your reach. Do you feel comfortable climbing a ladder up into the tree? Power equipment should never be operated from a ladder or in the tree where firm footing is questionable. Removing hanging limbs should be left to professional tree services. Look for them under Tree Service in the Yellow Pages. Make sure they carry proper liability and workmen’s compensation insurance before allowing them to start the job.

What damage is repairable and what is not? Broken limbs should be removed. Generally, if the branch has not split away from the trunk, the broken segment should be removed back to the next major adjacent branch. Do not leave branch stubs. Stubs encourage rot and decay.

For trees with tops broken out, remove the snags to the next major interior branch. Generally, this will be a major fork. Avoid topping the tree to allow small side branches to grow out and continue the tree’s height growth. These branches will be weak and prone to breakage.

To avoid stripping the healthy bark from the trunk when a heavy, broken limb is removed the 3-step procedure should be used. The first cut is made on the underneath side of the branch about 18 inches out from the trunk. The cut should be approximately half-way through the branch or until its weight first starts to bind the saw. The next cut should be made on top of the branch about 1 to 2 inches in front (toward the end of the branch) of the bottom cut. Continue cutting until the branch drops free. The last cut removes the remaining branch stub from the trunk. The cut should be made from the top of the branch at the branch collar. The collar is the slight ridge where the branch attaches to the tree’s trunk or another major branch.

In certain situations, a damaged limb may strip healthy bark from the tree. To repair this type of damage, cut any ragged edges of torn bark away from the damaged area. Take care to limit the amount of healthy, tight bark removed. To speed the healing process, the repair cut made with a sharp knife into healthy bark should leave a wound shaped like an elongated football with the pointed ends of the cut running vertically along the trunk or limb or as near parallel to the initial damage as possible.

Trees with split trunks or major limb forks may possibly be salvaged if the split is not too extensive. Repairing this type of damage will involve a cable and brace technique that should be left to a professional tree service.

Some small to medium-sized trees may have been uprooted. It may be possible to straighten these trees and brace them with guy wires. Do not attempt this unless one-half to one-third of the tree’s original root system is still in the soil and the remaining exposed roots are relatively compact and undisturbed. Before straightening the tree, remove some of the soil from beneath the root mass so the roots will be placed below the existing grade level. Attach two to three guy wires to the trunk and anchor the wires 10 to 12 feet away from the tree.

Corrective pruning to help improve the shape of damaged trees is best done now. The tree will respond quickly this spring if it has not been severely damaged. Take care not to remove more than one-third of original branches. This will severely retard the tree’s growth in the spring and may damage it beyond recovery.

Treatment of the trunk and limb wounds with tree paint is not necessary. In fact, research shows that painted areas can lead to increased rot and decay due to trapped moisture in areas where the paint cracks open. You may want to fertilize your tree this spring with a good quality tree fertilizer. Check with a local nursery or garden center, or your county Extension office for recommended rates.

---

Resource(s): Winter Protection of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 75

Source(s): Jim Midcap, Extension Horticulturist, The University of Georgia, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

---

The glaring heat of this summer may have you convinced that you need more shade in your yard. And fall is the perfect time to plant trees to create that needed shade.

Fall planting allows the trees’ root systems to become established and supply the moisture needed for next spring’s growth. This way your trees will get off to a great start.

Many ornamental trees give us a bountiful display of spring or summer flowers, too. Specimen trees attract attention because of their unique form and beauty.

So how do you select the right tree for the right place?

First, ask what you really need in your landscape.

Do you need shade over the patio from a large tree with wide-spreading branches? Do you need a splash of color you can see in the far meadow from the deck? Do you have the perfect place for an accent tree?

Next, do you have the space you need?

In particular, look at the room needed for the spread of the branches. Mature trees often reach out 20 to 30 feet in all directions, requiring a 40- to 60-foot open area.

Are there wires overhead? Wires limit the head room and may limit you to small trees or no trees at all. What about underground utilities and drain fields? Don’t plant trees directly over these.

Third, consider the strength of the wood and pest resistance of the trees. We’re always looking for pest-resistant trees that require little maintenance.

Finally, how about growth rate? Are you planting for your own gratification? Or can you plant trees for a future generation?
Here’s a short list of great, fast-growing trees that can fulfill your landscape needs. These are just a few of the lesser-known trees you can plant in the fall.

• The red maple called October Glory is fast- growing with good, green summer foliage and bright red leaves in late fall. It’s dependable year after year.
• The Shumard oak grows faster than most trees and has a nice, broad, oval crown. It has shiny, dark-green summer foliage and russet-red fall color. It quickly becomes a large, stately tree.
• Willow oak leaves are long and willow-like. It’s a tough oak for moist or dry sites and makes a dependable large shade tree.
• Lacebark elm loses its bark in small, puzzle- like pieces, creating a delicate pattern on the trunk and larger branches. The small leaves are glossy green and pest-resistant. This tough tree is extremely drought-tolerant. It’s a dependable, fast-growing shade tree.

The fall color of trees’ foliage greatly livens our landscapes. Several of the more dependable trees for fall color are the brilliant yellow ginkgo, wine-red sourwood, red and orange sugar maple (Southern sugar maple in central and southern Georgia) and Chinese pistache.

---

Resource(s): Landscape Plants for Georgia

Center Publication Number: 155