Chinese privet (also called privet) is an invasive weed that escaped from cultivation. It is often found in landscapes and around old homesites, edges of fields and in low areas. According to Dr David Dickens, UGA Extension Forester, this time of the year, a foliar treatment is a good option to control privet.
Basal treatments of privet (spraying the stems) can be difficult because of the large number of branches. Dr Dicken’s says that dormant-season foliar sprays with 3-5% glyphosate provide effective control. Concentrations greater than 5% are not economical.
Take care to keep the spray off the foliage and young green bark of desirable plants. Since many plants are dormant at this time of year, there should be less effect on non-target plants.
Privet seeds are only viable for one year so in areas where they continues to germinate, the seeds are being introduced by birds or other means.
Climbing fern – Chris Evans, Illinois Wildlife Action Plan, Bugwood.org
UGA Extension Forester, Dave Moorhead, points out that this 3 – 5 % glyphosate spray will also work in controlling another invasive weed – climbing fern.
When does my license expire? To find out, visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site. Information on all applicators is here.
How many hours do I need for recertification? (Note that you should have earned all your hours by 90 days before license expiration!) Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site.
Is my address correct with the GA Department of Agriculture? If not – you may not receive your new license renewal! Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site.
Where can I earn more hours towards certification? Visit the GA Dept of Ag Licensing & Certification site and look halfway down the page.
Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, University of Georgia. This info is edited from a longer article which can be read here.
Dormant transplanting of trees and ornamentals in the Southeastern United States is a common practice. Warm-season turfgrass sod can also be successfully established during dormancy.
Recommendations for normal sodding also apply to off-season sodding.
Successful transplanting is highly dependent on healthy sod, which is difficult to determine when the sod is dormant or overseeded.
Rootzone preparation is critical for success. Loosen the soil to a depth of 6 inches by tilling before sodding.
During site preparation prior to turf establishment is the best time to take a soil sample to determine pH and nutrient needs. Correction of soil pH and soil nutrient deficiencies is more effective when lime and fertilizer are incorporated into the soil before sodding.
Next, level smooth and moisten the soil. The soil should be lightly watered, but not saturated. Ruts from foot traffic or equipment can occur when soils are too wet and are difficult to repair after the sod is laid.
To prevent drying and potential cold injury of roots, install sod within 48 hours after harvest. This also allows the radiant heat from the earth to offer the sod some protection from cold injury when compared to turf exposed to the elements on a pallet.
Sod should be laid tight and rolled to minimize creases. If creases are apparent after sodding, top dress the sod to fill low spots, conserve moisture and potentially retain heat near the soil surface.
For best survival, avoid winter desiccation and low temperature injury. Dessication can be a significant problem since the warm dry winds of late winter and early spring increase the demand for water, but the combination of low soil temperatures and a limited root system will reduce the plant’s ability to obtain water.
Direct low temperature injury can be a problem because the crowns, stolons and shallow rhizomes may be killed. Unfortunately, newly sodded turf lacks deep rhizomes and the expansive root system necessary to recover from winter stresses.
Research and practical experience has shown that warm-season turfgrasses may be successfully sodded during the off-season (October-April) when the grass is dormant or slowly growing. However, the cooler climates in and north of Atlanta may damage some turf species. More winter injury has been observed on zoysiagrass and centipedegrass as compared to bermudagrass sodded in the fall or winter.
Overseeding sod with ryegrass may reduce warm season turf vigor and quality. While overseeded turf may look appealing during the winter months, during the spring the more heat-tolerant perennial ryegrasses can compete with the warm-season turf for water, nutrients and light. This can cause a poor spring transition and delayed green-up of the warm-season species. This is more common in ryegrass that has been heavily fertilized in the spring.
To assist spring green-up and stimulate turfgrass growth, fertilize with 1.0 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet once night temperatures consistently reach the mid 60s F. Also to further encourage warm-season species growth, lower the mowing height. This practice opens the turfgrass canopy, allowing more sun to the permanent warm-season species while stressing the overseeded grass. Resume accepted maintenance practices once conditions are favorable for warm-season turfgrass growth.
In summary, successful sod transplanting depends on proper soil preparation, good soil-to-sod contact, avoiding low temperature injury, and most importantly – proper water management to prevent desiccation. For more information, see these resources or contact your local UGA Extension Office.
There are currently three mistletoe elimination interventions, each delivering varying results. The three interventions are pruning infected tree branches, shoot pruning of mistletoe, and/or using a labeled chemical spray (ethephon). Note any specific commercial product mentioned here does not represent an endorsement, nor a statement of efficaciousness, but a summary of marketplace information at the time this publication was prepared.
Tree Pruning – Infection site branch pruning is a common means of controlling mistletoe. A twig or branch infected with mistletoe can be pruned at the nearest healthy originating node below an infection site. Do not tip, top, or use internode cuts on a twig or branch. (See Figure 11 in original publication online). The target node for pruning should be at least 14 inches below an infection site. Mistletoe infection site elimination through branch pruning should be treated as a proper pruning (Figure 12) or reduction cut (Figure 13, Figure 14, Figure 15). Figures in the original publication show proper cuts to be made at the next lowest branch node greater than 14 inches below an infection. Years will be needed for a tree to regain structural integrity after extensive mistletoe removal pruning.
Mistletoe Shoot Removal – One traditional treatment for mistletoe infection is to knock off brittle mistletoe stems from tree branches. Mistletoe stems snap off easy and nearly flush with branch bark, usually at the remnants of the holdfast leaving the haustorial cushion behind still within a branch. This treatment immediately reduces water loss from a tree, and reduces mistletoe reproduction. Unfortunately, simply knocking off mistletoe stems does not eliminate infections because the endophytic part of the mistletoe remains intact. It usually takes 1-3 years before mistletoe shoots noticeably reappear after removal. Approximately 80% of all pruned mistletoe stems re-grow and while without green shoots, become completely parasitic on a tree. Periodic mistletoe shoot removal may be a viable treatment on main stem infections where pruning is not practical.
A few studies have used a combination of mistletoe shoot removal and blocking light to the haustorial cushion. Light has been excluded from haustoria by various wraps, sprays, and applications like heavy pruning paint applications, aluminum foil, tin disks, tarpaper, tape, caulking, or black plastic. It is critical to not injure tree tissues around an infection site with any topical coating or through affixing any covering. Mistletoe shoot pruning and light exclusion from an infection site was thought to prevent new mistletoe shoot formation and starve haustoria embedded in tree branches. Generally, these types of mistletoe shoot stub treatment have not been found to be completely effective and so, not recommended in most circumstances.
Chemical Spray – (Note that pesticide information was correct as of August 2008 – labeled uses can change. Check the pesticide label for the most recent information!) Ethephon [(2-chloroethyl) phosphonic acid] acts as a mistletoe shoot abscission and defoliator by generating ethylene, a plant growth regulator. For example in one study, a 2% ethephon treatment applied to mistletoe shoots in the dormant season defoliated shoots in 75 days with no resprouting for 225 days, and with no negative impacts on the host. This treatment did not significantly impact the haustoria and new sprouts from the haustorial cushion area formed within 1-2 years.
Currently there is a chemical product labeled for mistletoe shoot control which contains this shoot abscission chemical (ethephon). This product is sold under the name FLOREL brand growth regulator, a trademark of the Rhone-Poulenc AG Company, and distributed by Monterey Lawn & Garden Products, Fresno, CA. [EPA Registration Number 54705-8]. Information for this publication regarding this product came from the company’s web site (accessed 8/29/2008). All label information was derived from the electronic version of the chemical product label.
The product as currently formulated contains 3.9% ethephon (0.33 lbs ethephon per gallon). The chemical is a highly acidic, colorless, odorless, clear liquid. This labeled product “… will cause the abscission of … leafy mistletoe shoots in ornamental deciduous trees.” Technically, this product is not labeled for leafy mistletoe removal from evergreen trees. Note a wide variety of other concentrations and application methods have been used in past research papers.
This ethephon product should be sprayed directly on mistletoe clumps until foliage and stems are wet.
Timing is crucial to prevent tree damage. Spraying should be completed after Fall leaf drop and before tree bud burst in Spring when daytime temperatures are above 65oF. Mix the product following all label directions. For example, under current label mixing instructions, mix one quart of product in 2 gallons of water for 5400 ppm concentration. Use of a surfactant is recommended. Spray only when no rain is forecast for a minimum of 24 hours. Return to and re-spray large clumps of mistletoe in one week. Because only the mistletoe shoot is impacted, retreat every 3-4 years. Mix and spray this product immediately. Do not store the mixed spray liquid for more than a few hours. Care is needed to prevent over-spray from staining or etching hardscapes or damaging painted surfaces.
Remember to carefully read and review the product label for your personal safety, safety of other living things, and the legal context of product use. Do not use this product near individuals or habitats of protected species, some of which could be around the tree site or on the tree exterior.
This is a casemaking clothes moth larva feeding on wool carpet with an adult moth (inset). Clothes moth larvae feed on items of animal origin (feathers, wool, etc.) and can permanently damage items made from animal products – clothes, carpet, etc.
Clothes moths (Tineidae: Tineola and Tinea spp.): Shiny, light gold-colored, 1/4 inch moth with fringed wing margins. The most common species in Georgia is the casemaking clothes moth (Tinea pellionella). Larvae of casemaking clothes moths build rectangular to elliptical cases about 1/4 inch that are open at both ends and spun from materials and/or fibers in their immediate environment, often fibers they have been feeding on. Larvae live, protected, inside the case. Larvae have a dark band just behind their head, which is visible only when the larva projects its head out of the case to feed.
Habits: Moths fly at night, usually in an erratic pattern, in search of mates and food. Adults lay eggs on items of animal origin, commonly feathers and wool. Larvae crawl around and on the item while feeding from inside their case. In preparation for pupation, larvae of the casemaking clothes moth crawl away from the item they are infesting and attach their case to the wall or other nearby vertical surface.
Interventions: Wash, steam-clean or dry-clean all items of animal origin, especially wool. Have infested textiles professionally cleaned. If items cannot be washed or steam-cleaned (large quantities of material, such as area rugs) then consider small-scale fumigation or storage for at least a month in a freezer. Before cleaned items are put back in the home, remove, by hand, visible pupal cases from vertical surfaces and from shelves. Consider storing susceptible fabrics in sealed containers to prevent re-infestation. Use pheromone traps to capture male moths. If desired, apply a spot treatment with an appropriately labeled residual spray to the area where moths and larvae are found.
Might Be Confused With: Indianmeal moths; other, small, incidental moths that fly indoors, from outdoors, when doors are open.
This is an excerpt from the UGA publication Argentine Ants by Dan Suiter and Brian Forschler, Department of Entomology
Argentine ants form strong foraging trails.
To survive the winter, Argentine ants commonly move into protected environments where temperatures are warmer and environmental conditions more stable. In structures, for example, ants commonly move into voids and other elements of construction that provide a warm, stable environment.
As spring temperatures return, Argentine ants move back into their preferred, outdoor nest sites where colonies grow steadily throughout the warm season. In the Southeast, populations typically peak in late summer. By early winter, declining temperatures once again trigger ants to begin searching for protected overwintering sites, and the cycle repeats.
To prevent large, late-season ant populations, and the resulting problems associated with winter infestations, management practices (especially outdoor baiting) should be started in the spring and continued through the warm season.
There are a number of approaches that can be utilized for the treatment of existing Argentine ant infestations, but no single insecticide-based approach is completely effective. An integrated approach, therefore, that incorporates both chemical and nonchemical techniques is best suited for the management of this ant species. If chemical controls are utilized, read and follow all pesticide label instructions, and never do more than what the label permits.
Before chemically-based Argentine ant control measures are undertaken, a thorough inspection of the indoor and outdoor premises should be conducted to determine the extent and origin of the infestation. The inspection should identify those areas where chemical control approaches should be directed.
Here are some tips on care for pansies and violas in the landscape from this publication.
Maintain a soil pH of 5.4 to 6.2. If your pH rises above 6.2, you will run into nutritional and disease problems. If your pH falls below 5.2, you risk nutrient toxicities.
Use fertilizer containing the nitrate (NO3) form of nitrogen (as opposed to ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4) or urea) Nitrate is taken up more readily in cold weather, and it does not cause as much stretching in hot weather. Products such as 15-2-20, and other products especially formulated for pansies have enhanced nitrate over ammoniacal nitrogen ratios, possess low phosphorus, and generally have the fertilizer elements in the right ratios for pansies.
If you use calcium nitrate [Ca(NO3)2] as a nitrogen source without added boron, you run the risk of saturating the plant with calcium. This abundance of calcium can cause a boron deficiency since calcium blocks boron uptake by the roots. Frequent irrigation and use of less-expensive fertilizers without balanced trace elements can also cause serious boron imbalances. A boron deficiency appears as tightly bunched up new growth that eventually leads to deformed leaves and poor flowering. If you need to supplement Boron, use a drench by mixing 0.85g borax (11%B) or 0.48g Solubor(20%B) per 100 gallons of water.
Boron deficiency in pansies
Carefully monitor irrigation and keep pansies slightly on the “dry side of moist soil” to “harden” growth prior to very cold weather. If your beds are continuously wet, even in periods of normal rainfall, consider adding organic matter and other materials next year to increase drainage for the next pansy season.
Pine straw, applied 2 to 4 inches thick, over the top of the entire bed (plants and all) during extreme cold is one of the best ways to save a pansy planting from freeze injury. This helps trap heat in the soil, prevents it from freezing and greatly reduces plant exposure to cold and desiccating wind. Carefully rake the pine straw off the bed when the cold weather passes.
These freeze protection measures are generally taken only when the air temperature is expected to drop below 20 degrees F for a considerable length of time, and when dry, cold winds accompany the weather change, and especially when the soil is in jeopardy of freezing solid. Healthy plants can generally survive short periods of temperatures down to the single digits without protection.
The publication also includes information on diseases, in-depth soil and plant fertility info and other good sources of information. See the entire publication.
Frank Watson is the University of Georgia Extension Agent in Wilkes County
Landscape plants get plenty of attention during the summer, but they need protection during Georgia’s winter months. Rather than trying to keep plants warm, gardeners should help protect plants from wind, snow, ice, drastic soil temperature changes and heat from the sun on cold days.
Reducing water loss can protect evergreen plants. All plants transpire, or lose, water through their leaves. Evergreens continue to lose water during the winter, so the plant’s roots must be able take up moisture.
Homeowners are more conscious of watering shrubs during the summer and often neglect to water plants during cold weather. Roots absorb moisture when it’s available, but during a dry period or even when the ground is frozen, moisture isn’t available. The plants continue to transpire water, drawing moisture from living cells. If too much water is released, the plant’s cells die, causing the plant’s leaves to turn brown and die.
High winds and warm sunshine on cold days result in a higher rate of water transpiration. Protection can be offered by relocating susceptible plants to a sheltered location. Also, provide them additional water during dry periods or prior to expected hard freezes.
An additional layer of mulch is also recommended during winter months after the first freeze. Mulch will reduce water loss from the soil, aid in transpiration and reduce “heaving” of the soil as the ground freezes and thaws. Soil heaving, or frost heaving, occurs when soil swells during freezing conditions and ice grows towards the soil’s surface.
To protect plants from cold damage, University of Georgia Extension horticulturists recommend following these six steps:
Plant only varieties that are hardy for the area. Buy plants using the USDA hardiness zones.
Given a choice, plant less-hardy plants in the highest part of the landscape. Cold air settles in the lowest area.
Protect plants from cold wind with a fence or a tall evergreen hedge of trees or shrubs.
Shade plants from direct winter sun, especially early morning sunshine. Plants that freeze slowly and thaw slowly will be damaged the least. The south side of the house, where there is no shade, is the worse place to plant tender plants.
Stop feeding plants quickly available nitrogen in late summer to allow them to “harden off” before cold weather arrives.
Plastic covering provides excellent protection. Build a frame over the plant or plants, cover them with plastic and secure the plastic to the ground with soil. Shade plastic to keep temperatures from building up inside. Plastic traps moisture and warm air as it radiates from the soil and blocks cold winds. Do not allow the plastic to touch plants.
Bed bug – Gary Alpert, Harvard University, Bugwood.org
Bed bugs are an ever growing problem in the US. As bed bugs problems began increasing in Georgia, the Georgia Department of Public Health put together a bed bug handbook, providing information about the habits and habitats of the bed bug with an emphasis on information required by environmental health specialists dealing with infestations in hotels.
Recently, as bed bug problems continue to spread to homes, apartments, shelters, schools, dorms, and other places where people live, work, and study; it was decided to update and expand the bed bug handbook to include information on dealing with bed bugs in a wider variety of circumstances.
The revised handbook is posted on the GDPH website .
One reason to update the handbook was to make it useful for people outside of public health who are dealing with bed bug issues. Any comments or suggestions would be gratefully accepted. Please send comments to Dr. Rosmarie Kelly
Bed Bug Biology – Life cycle, habits and medical importance
Inspecting for Bed Bugs – Protecting yourself and specific methods for various structures and situations
Treatment and Control – Physical removal, temperature, Chemical control, Do it Yourself treatments, Follow-up and monitoring, and Controls for various structures and situations
Additional Information – Bedbug myths, Action plan for hotel treatment and information specific to Schools, Environmental Health Specialists, Hotel Managers and Homeowners
Extension staff are not physicians (nor do we portray them on television), but we can contribute to better health among Georgia citizens. One emerging condition we want to keep in mind is red-meat allergy provoked by tick bites.
Yes, as strange as it sounds, being fed on by lone star ticks (the most common ticks in Georgia) can predispose some people to developing a severe food allergy, causing an itching skin rash, gastrointestinal upset, and trouble breathing several hours after consuming red meat (beef, pork, venison, lamb, etc. – but not poultry or fish). This condition has only recently been recognized and many physicians are not yet aware of it; likely we’ll see more in the media about this condition in the future as it becomes more widely recognized.
Meanwhile, if you know someone who experiences repeated episodes of severe hives (typically affecting the entire trunk) accompanied by nausea and/or diarrhea, recommend that they consult with their physician and raise the possibility of red meat allergy due to prior tick exposure. The accompanying life-threatening anaphylaxis and difficulty breathing can require an ER visit, so this is not a trivial condition. While testing for the condition is available only at select clinics, management of the condition is relatively simple, involving eliminating red meat from the diet.
