Jacob Price

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Frizzle top is a condition in palm trees as well as Sago palms that causes newly emerged leaves to become yellowed, frizzled and distorted. The condition is caused by a deficiency in Manganese (Mn), a micronutrient needed by Sago’s.

pH and Mn in Sago Palms

The optimal pH for Sago’s is 6.0-6.5.. The optimal tissue analysis for Mn in Sago’s is 50-250 ppm. For every one point increase in pH, the availability of Mn decreases 100 times. In other words, Mn is 100 times more available in a 6.5 pH than a 7.5 pH. The Sago pictured on the left has a 7.5 pH and less than lOppm Mn.

Fertilizer Program to Prevent Frizzle Top in Sago’s

To remedy manganese deficiencies, spray leaves with a solution of 1 tsp/gallon of water monthly for three months. Have a soil analysis performed in the root zone around problem Sago’s to analyze pH. Fertilize Sago’s with 1.0 pound of palm fertilizer in April and September. Soils with a pH higher than 6.5 or with a history of frizzle top problems, should be fertilized with 1 to 5 pounds (depending on size) of Manganese Sulfate in September. Apply 1 pound of Manganese Sulfate each September to prevent problems.

If lower leaves show an unusual amount of yellowing, add 1 pound of Magnesium Sulfate in June. Apply all fertilizers in a 100 square foot area around the plant. Most of the root mass in Sago palms is near the trunk with some roots extending to the edge of the leaves. If the pH was in a normal range the Sago may have problems other than frizzle top. Refer to previous fact sheet for other Sago problems.

Source(s): Jacob G Price

There are many different varieties of onions that you can grow in your garden.

Varieties

• Green bunching–Crystal Wax, Eclipse, Evergreen Bunching, White Portugal, Beltsville Bunching (42 – 55 days to maturity)
• Dry onions–Crystal Wax, Grannex 33, Grano 502, Sweet Vidalia, (bulb-type), Sweet Georgia ‘(100 – 120 days to maturity)

Culture

Both can be planted January 1 – March 15 (Spring), Green Bunching – September 1 to December 31 (Fall), Bulb-types – October 10 – November 10.

Green bunching (or spring onions) are easily grown. Sets and plants should be spaced about three inches apart in good soil.

Large, dry onions can be grown only on deeply dug, fertile soil and in full sun. For best results, dig or plow the onion plot in the fall, adding generous amounts of manure or compost. Add lime in the fall, too. Soil test if in doubt. In early spring, dig-in 3/4 pound of general fertilizer per 25 foot row, going down at least nine inches. Rake to remove all lumps and stones and then firm the soil well.

Space the onion plants about six inches apart and cover the roots with only one-half inch of soil. The plants will stand erect once the roots take hold and growth begins. Sometime around the end of April, when bulging soil around the plants shows that the bulbs are enlarging, pull the soil away from the onions, repeating as they mature. Side dress with about 3/4 cup fertilizer per 25 foot row after the first soil removal.

When the plants are almost mature (usually when about 3/4 of the tops have fallen) use a broom or rake to knock over those still standing. This helps onions mature thoroughly.

After a few days when all the tops are dead, pull the onions and spread them in the sun for a day or two to dry. Place the tops over the bulbs to prevent sun scald, or if raining, dry under protection. After the onions are dry, cut off the tops an inch above the bulbs and store in slatted crates of mesh bags in a cool place where air can circulate.

The name “Vidalia Onion” is just a term used locally to designate dry onions grown in the Vidalia or Glennville areas. The main variety grown is the Granex which is also widely grown in Texas and other southwestern states. Due to soil type, climactic conditions or other reasons local grown onions seem to have a better flavor than the same variety shipped in and consequently the “Vidalia Onion” has become well known in Georgia.

Gardeners in DeKalb must provide good soil preparation, on a well-drained site, in full sun. Set quality plants in late February or early March. Correct application of lime and fertilizer is essential. If a fall crop is considered, set the plants in early September. Local catalogs and some nurseries sell Granex (Vidalia) type onions.

Resource(s): Vegetable Gardening in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 78

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Leyland cypress trees are widely sold and planted in landscapes throughout the Southeast. The pyramidal, fast-growing trees make a nice screen or specimen plant. Functional life of the tree in the southeast is usually less than 20 years.

Planting Location

Grows up to three feet per year in fertile well-drained soils but adaptable to most soil types. Place in full sun for best growth. Tolerant to salt spray. More susceptible to insect and disease problems when stressed by drought or other factors.

Insects/Controls

Black Twig Borers, (Ambrosia beetles), can bore into pencil sized limbs and kill the ends of limbs. When first noticed, usually in the spring, they should be pruned out and destroyed. If necessary, preventive barrier sprays such as Pyrethroids and permethrins can be used. Scout the trees in late spring for bagworms and if found, Sevin or Bt products can be used for control. Scale insects and spider mites can damage foliage, but usually are not a major problem. Use bifenthrin or disulfoton for spider mites and cyfluthrin or oils for scale.

Diseases/Controls

Seiridium canker is a serious disease that can kill individual branches and entire trees. Symptoms include yellowing then browning of foliage and numerous oozing cankers on the limbs. Dead foliage is easy to remove with Seiridium infection. Bot cankers are similar, but dead foliage does not fall off easily. Fungicides will not help Seiridium and Bot canker. Pruning affected branches and making sure trees have adequate water help them overcome Seiridium and Bot canker.

Cercosporium, more common in nurseries than landscapes, is a foliar disease that affects the lower branches of newly planted Leylands. Fungicides such as Mancozeb, Daconil, and copper fungicides can control Cercosporium.

Center Publication Number: 70

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Fairy Ring (Clamp fungi mushrooms and approximately 50 Genera species of fungi) Fairy ring is caused by many types of basidiomycetes most of which produce mushrooms after heavy rains usually during late summer or early fall. Fairy ring can enlarge and cause severe damage or death to turfgrass. All turfgrasses are susceptible.

Disease Cycle

It is not known if the fungus begins by a piece of mycelium or by a spore. The fungus lives by decomposing organic matter in thatch or soil and moving radially outward. White thread-like mycelium from the fungus can grow 6 inches or more into the soil and form a hydrophobic mat which prevents water and nutrients from being absorbed by turfgrass roots. Fairy ring may also inhibit or kill turfgrass by releasing nitrogen from decomposed organic matter, which can cause a lethal accumulation of ammonia. Fairy rings may also produce toxic levels of hydrogen cyanide, directly infect roots, and weaken turf making it venerable to other diseases.

Symptoms

Dark green circular or semi-circular rings appear as a result of the fungus decomposing organic matter and making nitrogen available to the turfgrass. This usually occurs in dry sandy soils with a high quantity of buried organic matter such as stumps, leaves, and branches. Rings can persist for several years and increase in size each year.

Control

Fairy ring can be difficult to control. Core aerate the infected area or spike it with a pitch fork and water thoroughly before sunrise to leach fungal toxins deeper into the soil. Wetting agents will help better distribute the water into the soil. This will help break the hydrophobic mat of mycelium. ProStar 70WP used as labeled will help control Fairy ring if combined with the above practices.

Resource(s):

• Turfgrass Diseases
• Common Landscape Diseases in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 63

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Many garden plants are affected by mildew, both woody and herbaceous.

DESCRIPTION

Downy (False Mildew): Grows from within the plant and sends branches out through the plants stomata to create pale patches on the leaves. It is a fungal disease with a white to purple, downy growth, usually on the underside of leaves and along stems which turns black with age. Is encouraged by cool, wet nights, and warm, humid days. Overwinters on diseased plant refuse in the soil.

Powdery: Lives on the leaf surface. Sends out hollow tubes into the plant to suck out nutrients. It is a fungal disease with a white to grayish powdery growth, usually on the upper surfaces of leaves. Small black dots appear and produce spores that are blown by wind to infect new plants. Worst in hot,dry weather with cool nights (Night: 61oF with relative humidity 95-99%; Day: 81oF with relative humidity 40-70% Powdery growth is viable two days after infection. Growth is enhanced by low light levels that accompany cloudy or foggy periods. Cannot survive if there is a film of water on leaves or stems.

DETECTION

Downy – The best time to examine plants is early in the morning while dew is on the leaves. The first symptom is sunken, water-soaked spots on leaves, either yellowish or grayish in color. Spots later become covered with a downy purplish mold growth which may eventually be blackened by a second fungus.

Powdery – Starts on young leaves as raised blister-like areas that cause the leaves to curl, exposing lower surface. Infected leaves become covered with a grayish-white powdery fungus growth. Disease prefers young, succulent growth; mature tissue is usually not affected. Unopened flower buds may be white with mildew and never open. Leaves will become brown and shrivel when mildew is extensive. Fruits ripen prematurely and have poor texture and flavor.

CONTROL

Downy

1. Plant resistant cultivars.
2. Prune to improve air circulation and remove infected branches.
3. Use a three -year rotation.

Powdery

1. Prune or stake to improve air circulation.
2. Dispose of infected plants before spores form.
3. Apply a weekly water wash during periods of active growth. Wash both upper and under surfaces of the leaves. Do in early afternoon because that is when spores are most likely to be moving on air currents.
4. Apply sulphur weekly to susceptible plants. Be certain to cover the tops and underside of leaves, paying special attention to the growing tips. It is best to begin applications early in the season, since sulfur is more effective at preventing disease than at curing it. If the temperature exceeds 85oF, do not apply sulfur since it may burn the leaves.
5. Apply lime sulfur to dormant plants to kill overwintering spores lodged in unopened buds or on canes.
6. Treat with Clearys 3336, Banner Maxx, Bayleton or Mancozeb.

Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 28

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Introduction: The Oleander caterpillar is a serious problem along the southern coast of Georgia. This pest feeds only on Oleander, a horticulturally important plant that is poisonous to most animals.

Life Cycle

Three generations per year occur in our area with the damaging larval stage pictured above right, usually present in March, December, and July. The moth stage of this pest is bluish-purple with white dots on black wings. Female moths lay oval, light yellow eggs on the undersides of leaves. Upon hatching, the young caterpillars first eat their shells, then begin feeding on the underside of the leaf. Fully grown larvae are usually about an inch long. The entire life cycle is completed in about 60 days.

Control

A number of control measures are available for leaf eating caterpillars. The best control measure is locating and removing eggs prior to hatching. If hatching caterpillars are found products such as acephate (Orthene), malathion, and carbaryl (Sevin) can be used. A natural bacteria called BT (Bacillus thuringiensis) can be used as well. BT is sold under the trade name Thuricide or Dipel. It is best when caterpillars are less than 1/4″. Read the product labels for mixing instructions. Some formulations of chemicals are labeled for effective control of this pest while other formulations are not. Scouting for this pest is important, it can devour an oleander shrub in a short period of time and is very difficult to control when larvae are larger.

Resource(s): Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 40

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Introduction

Pennywort (Dollarweed) is a perennial weed that is common in turfgrass as well as ornamentals. It is found in moist to wet sites or anywhere where there is excess moisture. Dollarweed reproduces by seeds, rhizomes, and tubers. In the United States it is found from Maine to Florida and several inland states.

Description

Dollarweed has erect, long stalked leaves with scalloped margins. They look like miniature lily-pads. The petiole of dollarweed is in the center of the leaf. Dollarweed sometimes flowers in elongated spikes at the top of the stalk,

Control: Turfgrass

For centipedegrass, St. Augustinegrass, zoysiagrass, and dormant bermudagrass, Atrazine is labeled as a preemergence and postemergence control. Apply in early spring after green-up for summer control. Do not apply atrazine to unestablished sod, during greenup, to root zones of ornamentals,or to any cool season grass. Image or imazaquin can be used postemergence on the grasses listed above. Do not apply image to turfgrass during spring greenup or to newly planted grass. Manor (metsulfuron) provides good control on the grasses listed above. 2,4-D + MCPP + dicamba, which is Weed-B-Gon Lawn Weed Killer 2 or Ace Lawn Weed Killer, can be used on the above grasses but use half rates and spot treatments to minimize damage to Centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass.

Control: Ornamentals

Image may be used over the top of a limited number of ornamentals, (refer to label). Roundup or Finale may be spot-sprayed in ornamentals if care is used to prevent drift.

Resource(s): Georgia Turf: Weed Management

Center Publication Number: 71

Source(s): Jacob G Price

Fungal leaf spots are abundant throughout Coastal Georgia landscapes. Leaf spots can reduce shrubs appeal while also compromising plant health. Red tips, Indian Hawthorne, and Bradford Pears are commonly affected.

Description of Leaf Spot

Small reddish leaf spots initially. As spots age, center is grayish with a purple border. Leaf spots may coalesce causing severe leaf blight. Severely infected leaves drop prematurely. Over time severely infected plants can die.

Favorable Environment for Leaf Spot

This disease is promoted by poor air circulation and prolonged periods of leaf wetness.

Irrigating late in the day or early evening may increase disease severity. Irrigation intended for turfgrass often wets foliage of shrubs, making the problem worse.

Control of Leaf Spot

For Photinia (red tips), prune plants to improve air circulation. Increase plant spacing and avoid wetting foliage. Apply protective fungicide applications when the leaves emerge in the spring and continue at 10-14 day intervals throughout the growing season. Two labeled fungicides for this problem are chlorothalonil (Daconil) and propiconazole (Banner Maxx). Red tips are very vulnerable to entomosporium leaf spot. Fewer fungicides applications may be needed with pear and hawthomes.

Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 73

Source(s): Jacob G Price

St. Augustinegrass is becoming increasingly popular in Georgia landscapes. This turf is susceptible to several insect and disease problems that occur in Georgia. Treatments for each situation are often very different so correct diagnosis is important before choosing a treatment option.

Chinch Bugs and Take-All Disease: (Fig. 1). Take- All Disease kills large areas of turf. Stolons, grass blades, and roots die, leaving turf that is easily pulled up. Roots are dark brown, and dark lesions are sometimes seen on stolons. (Fig. 2). Take-All Disease is usually associated with a pH of 6.3 or above at the soil surface. Incidences of Take-All Disease are increasing in Georgia. Chinch Bugs and Take-All Disease are the two most serious problems in St. Augustinegrass. (Fig. 3). Mature Chinch Bugs are about 1/8” long. Nymphal stages are reddish in color. If suspected, the fast moving insects can be found in thatch or on blades of grass in sunny areas of the lawn. The first symptoms of Chinch Bugs are yellowing of individual blades of grass which quickly becomes large brown areas.

Other Insects and Diseases: Brown Patch damages grass in circular patterns that enlarge to 8′. At first the area appears sunken. Excess moisture, high nitrogen fertilizer, and temperatures between 70-85 degrees, usually precede the outbreak. Gray Leaf Spot appears as tiny gray to brown spots on blades of grass usually in shaded areas with high moisture. Over-all appearance is irregular thinning of turf. Fairy-Ring is a disease that first appears as a lush green circle or semi-circle that moves outward with potential to leave bare areas of turf behind. Fairy-ring fungi often occur where roots or buried debris are decaying. Mushroom circles often appear in the fall. Mole Crickets are insects which feed on and sever roots which gives turf a spongy feel. Large irregular areas may die. They can be detected by pouring 1 gallon of water mixed with 2 tbsp of dishwashing liquid over the borders of the infested area. Sod Webworms and Fall Armyworms can also be detected with soap and water. The worms leave chewed edges on grass blades and can eat the grass to the ground. White Grubs are larvae of several types of beetles. Detection requires digging a square foot section to a depth of 4 inches and counting grubs. Treatment depends on the number and species detected. For more information and control options contact your local county extension office.

**Very serious and must be dealt with as soon as detected.

Resource(s):
Turfgrass Diseases
Turfgrass Diseases: Quick Reference Guide

Center Publication Number: 244