Building a Compost Mound

Source(s): Gary R Peiffer


Yard wastes can be composted without a bin – if you don’t mind the looks of an uncontained compost mound in your yard. The only costs are your time and work.

compost1

What You Need

  • Shovel or pitchfork
  • Work Gloves

Maintaining Your Compost

Find a good location and pile your yard waste in a mound about 3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet. If you cover the pile with a layer of soil, it will keep in moisture for the microorganisms and soil animals working to make compost.

It is best to have two piles. After the first pile is large enough, stop adding organic material and let it work. In the meantime, add your wastes to the second pile.

Make sure the pile is moist, especially if it is covered with soil.

Adding Wastes

Add wastes as they become available. Non-wood materials, such as grass clippings and garden wastes work best.

You can turn the pile to speed up composting. Compost should be ready in three to four months if you turn the pile, or in about one year if you don’t turn the pile.

Several types of compost bins can be seen at the Fernbank Science Center Compost Garden, 186 Heaton Park Drive, Atlanta, GA 30307. The DeKalb County Extension Service also has compost demonstration sites located throughout the county.

For information about home composting, call or visit your local County Extension office or The Georgia Department of Community Affairs at 404-679-4940.


Resource(s): Composting and Mulching

Center Publication Number: 3

Build a Home Greenhouse from Recycled Materials

Source(s): Stephen D Pettis


A greenhouse provides winter sanctuary for gardeners and a place to keep green plant material. Greenhouses are simple, easy to build and they can be quite inexpensive if you use recycled materials.

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Greenhouses have been around for centuries. The first greenhouses were invented by the Dutch in the 1600’s.Through ingenuity and the invention of paned glass, grapes were started early under panes of glass leaned up against stone walls. This trapped heat and maximized the poor spring sunlight to allow earlier crops of fruit. From panes of glass leaned against walls, greenhouses have evolved but are still simply a collection of windows.

Windows and glass doors are replaced in homes around our county everyday. The windows that are replaced are often thrown away and wasted. These windows and doors could be recycled to create a greenhouse in a number of ways.

The simplest is to build a cold frame raised bed. Simply build a raised bed the size of your window. Make sure the top slopes a bit to ensure water drains off quickly. Install weed barrier cloth in the bottom and fill with potting soil. This bed can be used to harden off seedlings started indoors in the spring, used for rooting cuttings in the summer, and for cool season veggies in the fall and winter.

The greenhouse can be built by starting out with a wooden frame of any sort. Orient the greenhouse so that full direct sunlight cannot penetrate the windows. If you have a full sun situation, purchase shade cloth to reduce sun penetration that might harm tender plants.

Use an opaque roofing material such as corrugated plastic or fiberglass. Attach the windows to the frame with hinges so that each is independent allowing for temperature regulation. In the winter, caulk the windows to insulate against the winter chill. Employ the use of a boxed heater and lights to warm the greenhouse during particularly cold winter nights.

Bug Detective Stays Busy

Source(s): Sharon Dowdy, Public Relations Coordinator, CAES – Office of Commuications, The University of Georgia.


Lisa Ames spends her workdays getting up close and personal with insects, about 500 per year to be exact. Working in the University of Georgia’s Homeowner Insect and Weed Diagnostic Laboratory in Griffin, Ames helps UGA Cooperative Extension Agents identify insect samples for Georgia homeowners.

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“Most of the time, the County Agents can easily identify the insects that are brought into their offices,” she said. “I get involved when the samples aren’t so easy to identify.” Ames says if a homeowner has captured it – chances are she can and has identified it. Most of the samples Ames receives come to her in vials of alcohol.

Since 2002, she has identified more than 2,000 insect and weed samples through the laboratory which is operated by the College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences. Although the insect samples vary from year to year, Ames says most of the samples are either ornamental insects, stored product-paper insects or spiders.

“Most of the spider samples that people think are brown recluses are actually filistatids or southern house spiders,” she said. “The brown recluse has six eyes arranged in three pairs.” Ames says the “fiddle” is much larger on the brown recluse than on the southern house spider. “The fiddle, or violin, is the marking on the spider’s back that has a shape resembling the musical instrument,” she said. “It’s so small on the southern house spider that it’s almost insignificant.”

The most common samples Ames receives are what she refers to as “stored product and paper” insects. “These are the insects, like drugstore beetles and sawtoothed grain beetles, that are found in flour and other pantry products,” she said. “I get a lot of Indian meal moth samples because they get into dog food and bird seed.” Ames says County Agents send these common samples to her because many stored product pests are very small and require a microscope to ensure a positive identification.

She gets a lot of termite samples for the same reason. “I get a lot of termites, because Extension Agents want to have confirmation before they give homeowners that kind of news,” she said.

Ames also identifies a lot of insects that homeowners view as harmful. “I often get insects that homeowners have found in groups,” she said. “When insects congregate, people usually assume they are up to no good.”

But not all of the insects Ames identifies are harmful. “I get a lot of beneficial insect samples just because they bite, sting, or are scary looking,” she said.

In addition to the spider, termite, and stored product samples, Ames gets a fair number of centipede, giant flatheaded worm, and giant resin bee samples, too. The number of samples she’s received this year has been reduced by the state’s drought conditions.

In addition to the insect samples, Ames also identifies about 50 weed samples per year, most of which are submitted in April and July.


Resource(s): Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 237

Brown Patch

Source(s): Paul Pugliese


Brown Patch on turfgrasses is caused by a fungus disease named Rhizoctonia solani.

Brown Patch symptoms in turf
Brown Patch symptoms in turf

Appearance

Circular patches of dead grass that range from a few inches to several feet in diameter. Occurs during periods of high humidity and warm temperatures (75ºF to 85ºF). Georgia’s summer climate is ideal for this fungal disease to thrive! Brown areas of dead grass are surrounded by a reddish-brown or purplish halo. After 2 to 3 weeks, the center area of brown grass may recover and turn green resulting in a doughnut shape of dead brown grass.

Hosts

Attacks all turf grasses including Bermuda, Fescue, Centipede, and Zoysia grasses. There are some varieties of these grasses that are “resistant” or less susceptible to the Brown Patch disease but none are totally immune.

Seasons

Prevalent during warm, humid summer months.

IPM

Conditions that favor Brown Patch are:

  • Excessive nitrogen fertilizers
  • Frequent watering or watering late in the day
  • High humidity

Don’t apply excessive nitrogen fertilizers; use only enough to maintain a reasonably healthy green turf. Excessive nitrogen tends to favor the development of Brown Patch due to lush, tender new growth of grass that is most susceptible to attack by the fungus.
Also, watering early in the morning allows the grass foliage to dry before nightfall. Most fungi grow and develop during the night, given adequate moisture. Water lawns early, less often and more deeply!

Mow lawns slightly higher than normal during periods of excessively high heat conditions. This reduces stress to turfgrasses, thus, helping to reduce the possibility of disease .

Comment

If you think you have Brown Patch in your lawn, bring a sample of grass (about 4″ square) with both living and dead tissue to the Extension office for proper diagnosis. A fungicide recommendation may be required if the problem cannot be corrected by cultural or IPM practices.


Resource(s):

Center Publication Number: 45

Brown Bats

Source(s): Jim Howell, Ph.D., Entomologist, The University of Georgia


Bats are very beneficial creatures that feed on a wide variety of insects, including mosquitoes. Nonetheless, we as homeowners do not want them to establish residence in our attics or the walls of our homes.

brownbat

Identification

Sixteen bat species call Georgia home and all of them are insectivores. The big brown bat is the most common house-infesting species in the Atlanta area and is one of the few that will remain throughout the year. Other species migrate south in the fall.

The big brown bat has broad black ears and thick black wings and is chocolate brown on its back and sides, lighter on its belly, and reaches a length of about 4 to 5 inches. Another species, the Brazilian free-tailed bat, is common in the southern part of the state and forms huge colonies in deserted buildings, sometimes numbering in the thousands.

Biology

Big brown bats mate in the fall, and their young are born the following May or June. During that time, about 40 to 100 pregnant females roost together in nursery colonies. The young are capable of flying in three to four weeks. This species is largely crepuscular, feeding on mosquitoes and other insects. After an initial evening foray, the bats return to their roost. They feed again later in the night before moving back to the roost, where they will remain during the day. Predators of the big brown bat include rat snakes, the barn owl and the great horned owl.

Problems

Bats often roost in attics or other hollow spaces in homes. Bat droppings can build up over time, creating unpleasant odors. They also harbor bat bugs, which can be a problem for humans, especially after the bats have been removed.

Control

The favored method of bat control is exclusion. To be certain all bats are outside the structure, this should be done in the fall, when there are no young. It should also be done after dark, when the bats are out foraging for food. Bat valves are also available that will allow bats to leave, but not to enter.

Building bat boxes is a good way to keep bats out of your house but to keep them in the area.


Center Publication Number:227

Boxwoods

Source(s)

  • Lynn Batdorf, Curator – National Boxwood Collection, National Arboretum in Washington, DC
  • Dr. Gary Wade, Extension Horticulturist, University of Georgia College of Environmental & Environmental Sciences

Lynn Batdorf, Curator of the national boxwood collection at the National Arboretum in Washington, DC spoke at the Landscape Planning Short Course in Athens on January 29, 2009. He offered some interesting insight into the genus Buxus as he described in detail the history, culture and many cultivars of boxwood. I summarized my notes from his lecture in bullet form below.

  • There are 97 species of boxwood worldwide, but only 7 are temperate plants. The rest are tropicals. There are 182 cultivars of the temperate species in the national boxwood collection at the National Arboretum.
  • Boxwood roots grow shallow, within the top 15 inches of soil, and the roots extend out several times the canopy spread. A mature boxwood is difficult to transplant due to the extensive root mass and percent of root loss during transplant.
  • Boxwood prefers an alkaline pH, in the range of 6.8 to 7.5 for optimum growth. It often suffers nutritional deficiencies at low pH. Dolomite lime is recommended to increase pH because it contains magnesium which boxwood likes. Do not plant boxwood adjacent to azaleas, camellias, gardenias or other acid-loving plants.
  • Boxwood responds to fall fertilization because it promotes root growth, and roots grow all winter. Fall fertilization also minimizes winter leaf bronzing, since this is often linked to nutritional deficiencies. Tip bronzing, for instance, indicates magnesium deficiency.
  • Hand thinning is much better for boxwood than shearing. Shearing results in a thick, dense outer canopy, poor air flow within the foliage, and encourages leaf and twig diseases. Branch die-back can often be attributed to shearing and poor cultural conditions.
  • Boxwood leaves remain on plants for 3 years before they shed. It’s important to keep them on the plant as long as possible by preventing inner leaves from becoming shaded. It’s also important to maintain leaves as far down within the canopy as possible.
  • Use hand pruners to make selective thinning cuts inside the canopy on selected branches. Thinning gradually controls plant size, but more importantly it opens the canopy and improves air flow and light penetration which are important for maintaining leaves.
  • Boxwood does not respond well to severe pruning. Exposing the old wood often results to frost and winter injury and sunscald on the trunk and branches.
  • There is no such thing as boxwood decline. Boxwood problems are caused by numerous insects and diseases, including leaf miner, mites and scales, but most of these are encouraged by poor cultural/management conditions or improper soil pH.
  • English boxwood does not get leaf miners because the leaves contain an alkaloid that kills the insect.

Boxelder Bugs

Source(s):

  • William F. Lyon: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2106.html
  • Jacob G Price

Boxelder bugs feed primarily on the seed-bearing boxelder trees by sucking sap from the leaves, tender twigs and developing seeds.

box2 box3

Identification

Adult boxelder bugs are flat, about 1/2 inch long, 1/3 inch wide and dark brownish-black with three lengthwise red stripes on the pronotum (area behind the head). Wings are thick and leathery at the base and membranous at the tip. There are red veins in the wings; the abdomen is bright red under the wings. The nymphs resemble the adults in shape except they are smaller, wingless and bright red. Eggs are red.

What Do They Damage?

Boxelder bugs, Leptocoris trivittatus, may become a nuisance, especially during the cool autumn months when they first cluster in large numbers on the sides of trees, houses and other structures. However, they do not damage buildings, clothing or food products, but may bite if handled carelessly. Indoors they may stain walls and curtains and produce a foul odor when crushed.

Living Habits

During the autumn months, adult and large nymph boxelder bugs congregate in large numbers, primarily on the bark of boxelder maples (Acer negundo) and then begin migrating to a place for over wintering. Only adults over winter, moving to hibernation sites either by crawling or flying.

These bugs hide in cracks and crevices in walls, in door and window casings, around foundations, in stone piles, in tree holes and in other protected places. On warm days during winter and early spring, they sometimes appear on light painted surfaces outdoors on the south and west sides of the house, resting in the sun. Over wintering adults leave their hibernating quarters with the coming of warm weather and females begin laying eggs in crevices of tree bark and on other objects near host plants. Hatching occurs in 14 days, with nymphs appearing about the same time that new tree leaves develop. In July, new adults lay eggs that result in a second generation by early autumn.

Boxelder bugs feed primarily on the seed-bearing boxelder trees by sucking sap from the leaves, tender twigs and developing seeds. Occasionally, they have been observed feeding on maple, ash, plum, cherry, apple, peach and grape, causing some scarring or dimpling of fruits. However, boxelder bugs seldom develop in large enough numbers to become a nuisance unless able to feed on pod-bearing boxelder trees. Apparently, they do little feeding damage to boxelder trees.

  • Be sure to repair and close openings where boxelder bugs can enter the house such as around doors and windows and through the foundation.
  • Eliminate potential hiding places such as piles of boards, rocks, leaves, grass and other debris close to the house.

Because these bugs breed only on female boxelder trees, removal of these trees would eliminate nuisance populations. If boxelder trees are needed for shade, ornamental beauty or other purposes, nurserymen should propagate by taking cuttings only from male trees.

Water at 165 to 180 degrees F applied directly on clusters of bugs will kill them. Avoid killing grass and other desirable plants with hot water. If hot water is not available, use a garden hose to wash away from doorways, carports and decks.

Chemical Control

Limited spraying with an aerosol pesticide labeled for crawling insects may be useful. Apply spray to outside doorsills, window ledges and doorsteps. Before using any insecticide, read the label and follow directions.


Resource(s): Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 34

Gray Mold or Botrytis Blight on Pansies

Source(s): Nina Eckberg


Identification of Gray mold or botrytis blight on pansy (Botrytis cinerea).

Gray Mold or Botrytis on Pansies Gray Mold or Botrytis on Pansies

Appearance

Gray to tan spots appear on pansy flower petals following infection. Periods of wet weather and stressful conditions (extreme cold or heat) favor disease development. Leaves and stems of young shoots wilt and die, turning brown to black color. Gray-brown, fuzzy patches (masses of spore) appear, a sign that the gray mold is spreading.

Hosts

Pansy, peony, petunia and geranium are susceptible.

Season

Winter, during wet periods and unfavorable growing conditions.

Damage

Gray mold is an airborne fungus that attacks flowers and damaged or dying tissue. Pansy flower petals discolor and rot. Stems and leaves yellow, then darken, turning slimy. If allowed to spread, the disease will damage the plant.

Integrated Pest Management

Conditions that favor gray mold/botrytis blight are:

  • high rates of fertilization
  • death of lower leaves
  • low light intensity
  • frequent watering
  • crowded plants

If fertilization is done at the time of planting and supplemented once a month, the plant stress will be less. Remove dead lower leaves so the disease has no food source. Be sure the planting bed is in a sunny area. Allow plants to dry out between waterings. As plants mature and fill the flowerbed, remove plants that are too close together. All of these conditions will stimulate healthy pansy growth without disease.

Comment

If you think you have gray mold/botrytis blight in your pansies, bring a sample to the Extension office for diagnosis.


Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 59

Bothersome Boxelder Bugs

Source(s): Jim Howell, Ph.D., Entomologist, The University of Georgia


Noticed any peculiar “red and black” bugs that suddenly appeared in large numbers inside your home? Or perhaps on south or west-facing outside walls? Their appearance almost always coincides with unusually warm winter days.

boxelder

These are boxelder bugs that have been temporarily “activated” by the warm temperatures and come inside through any cracks or fissures that they can find leading in from outside of your home.

Identification

Adult boxelder bugs are about 1/2 inch long, slate gray in color, with three red stripes behind the head and red lines on the wings. The rear margin of the wings is reddish, and the abdomen beneath the wings is also red, as are the eyes. Nymphs are very bright red, with darker heads.

Biology/Life Cycle

In late summer and fall, large numbers of adult and large nymph boxelder bugs come together, usually on the bark of boxelder trees, before moving to an overwintering site.They fly or crawl to a suitable retreat for the winter. These insects seek and find almost any crack or crevice — in walls, door and window casings, rock piles, tree holes and the foundations of houses.

On warmer winter days, they will often emerge and rest on the south or west sides of our houses, usually on white or very light surfaces. If they have access to the inside, they may also appear there in large numbers. Adults emerge from these overwintering sites in March and early April and feed for about two weeks prior to mating. Females begin egg-laying in cracks and crevices near host plants.

In addition to box elder, this insect feeds on apple, ash, buckeye, maple, plum, cherry, peach and grape as well as other ornamentals. Around the middle of July, new adults lay eggs for a second generation by early autumn.

Damage

Boxelder bugs feed primarily on box elder and maple seeds but also suck sap from the leaves and twigs. Despite this, they do little damage to their primary hosts. Because of their fall invasion of our homes, this insect is more commonly considered a household pest.

Their fecal material may stain wallpaper, upholstery, curtains and other furnishings. Also, these insects may emit a foul odor when crushed.

Control

It is very difficult to control boxelder bugs after they have gotten into the home. Individual bugs can be removed by hand or with a vacuum cleaner.

Although household sprays containing pyrethroids will kill these insects on contact, it is far better to prevent them from getting in by sealing or weatherstripping all cracks and crevices through which they might gain admittance. Windows, including those in the attic, should have screens or storm windows. Vents in soffits and crawl spaces should also be screened.

When they gather in large numbers at various times in the fall, the aggregation is vulnerable to an insecticide that can eliminate a great many at one time. One may also eliminate harborages like rock piles, lumber and leaves that have accumulated near the house.

Because female boxelder trees are the single most important food source for these insects, removal of female trees will greatly reduce the numbers of box elder bugs.

Usually, populations are not large enough to warrant the use of pesticides, but if they are needed for use on clusters, permethrin or carbaryl (Sevin) is appropriate.


Resource(s): Insect Pests of Ornamental Plants

Center Publication Number: 167

Bot Canker

Source(s): Gary R Peiffer


Bot Canker (Botryosphaeria dothidea, B. obtusa, Sphaeropsis, Macrophoma)

Bot Canker of Leyland Cypress
Bot Canker of Leyland Cypress

Disease Symptoms

Infected branches on Leyland cypress are a bright rust color most often visible in spring and fall. The bot organism attacks sites with wounds from pruning, mechanical damage, freeze cracks, etc. or natural opening (lenticels) following a stress event such as drought. A sunken or flattened stem canker develops at the infection site and may ooze sap (gummosis). Eventually it may encircle the branch or stem killing all foliage above the site. It has a wide host range including Leyland cypress, fruit and shade trees and vines.

Disease Management

Prune diseased branches six (6) inches below the infected area. Water and fertilize plants appropriately to avoid stress and promote good growth. Protect plants from injury. Avoid planting too close together (plants need to be far enough apart to allow for good air circulation). No fungicides are effective once infection has occurred. A protective fungicide application when an injury occurs may reduce the possibility of infection.


Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 53