Use A Lawn Spreader

Source(s): Clint Waltz, Extension Turfgrass Specialist, The University of Georgia


The two basic types of equipment used to apply granular fertilizers or pesticides to lawns are drop spreaders and rotary spreaders. Drop spreaders provide an easy and efficient means of applying granular pesticides and fertilizers with precision accuracy. Rotary spreaders are typically preferred when applying products to larger areas.

Newer models of rotary spreaders have a deflector shield for improved edging around ornamental beds or hard, impervious surfaces. However, you may have to adjust port openings to compensate for a change in distribution. So check the calibration before using deflector shields.

The application rate and distribution pattern are affected by the spreader design, the product (especially weight and density), environmental conditions (wind, temperature, and humidity) and the operator (speed).

Each material will have its own “effective” distribution pattern, so calibrate the spreader for each product being applied. As with all spreaders and sprayers, constant calibration is necessary to assure proper distribution and delivery rate. Consult the owner’s manual for proper calibration and maintenance.

Use it correctly

To use your rotary spreaders properly:

  • Choose a spreader that’s easy to fill and clean, to minimize spills. Make sure the ports (the bottom holes the material falls through) are closed before filling the spreader. And use a cover, especially in uneven terrain.
  • Calibrate and know the “effective” swath width for each material being applied. This will determine the proper overlap. When possible, use flags or other markers to track the effective swath width.
  • Walk at a constant speed — 3 miles per hour is typically recommended.
  • Keep the impeller (the part that “slings” the material) level and parallel to the ground. Tipping the spreader too far can result in uneven spreading.
  • Apply materials while moving forward. Start walking before opening the gate of the spreader, and close the gate before stopping. And avoid sharp turns which make the application uneven. Turn off the spreader before making a turn.
  • To avoid skips and streaks, split the rate and apply in two directions perpendicular to each other. Make a lap around the perimeter, and then fill in the interior of the area.
  • Avoid applying fertilizer or pesticide to nontarget areas (driveways, roads, bodies of water). Blow or sweep material from hard, impermeable surfaces into the turf area.
  • After use, empty the unused material into its original container and wash the spreader thoroughly in an area where the rinse water can’t get into the storm sewage.
  • Grease and oil all moving spreader parts as recommended by the manufacturer. Check and maintain proper tire pressure.

Resource(s):

Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 145

Cercospora Leaf Spot on Hydrangea

Source(s): Holly Thornton


There are many fungal leaf spot pathogens that affect a very wide range of host plants. One very common leaf spot on hydrangea is Cercospora leaf spot caused by the fungal pathogen, Cercospora hydrangeae.

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This fungal leaf spot can affect most hydrangeas and is generally an aesthetic issue for homeowners. The pathogen will rarely kill the plant but can reduce plant vigor by defoliation. It is generally more problematic in low maintenance landscape situations or when homeowners overhead irrigate their plants.

Depending on the type of hydrangea (oakleaf, bigleaf, etc.), the leaf spot symptoms may vary. Spotting generally begins at the base of the plant on older leaves and works its’ way up the plant. The spots are generally small, circular, and scattered across the leaf surface. They tend to have tan centers and dark brown or purple borders (see images). The leaf spots can oftentimes be irregular or angular shaped.

Verifying the presence of this particular fungal pathogen is very straightforward.

  1. Place the leaf under the dissecting scope;
  2. Look for the presence of tiny black structures within the tan/black/purple leaf spots;
  3. Using your scalpel, pick several of those tiny black structures and place on a prepared microscope slide (place a small droplet of water or acid fuchsin on the center of the slide);
  4. Place a coverslip over the droplet;
  5. Using the compound microscope, search for spores of the fungal pathogen (see below).

Cercospora sp. conidia generally vary in size, but are usually hyaline (clear) elongated (filiform) and several- celled. The conidia are borne on dark, clustered conidiophores that appear to burst out of the leaf spots. Below are drawings of the fungal conidia from the Illustrated Genera of Imperfect Fungi (4th edition).

Once the presence of this fungal disease is verified, it is important to stress to the homeowner the following about the survival and management of this fungal pathogen:

  • The fungus survives in fallen diseased leaves that remain on the ground. Therefore, sanitation to remove the dying and diseased leaves will help prevent subsequent infections or outbreaks.
  • The conidia of the fungus are spread by splashing water. This can be from rain, which is impossible to control, or from overhead irrigation. It is important to minimize the amount of leaf wetness. If at all possible, install soaker hoses or drip irrigation to prevent water-splash on the leaves. If your lawn irrigation system just barely hits the hydrangeas, then, yes, this will be problematic and can create an environment that supports the reproduction and growth of this fungal pathogen. Late summer rains can also perpetuate this disease.
  • In severe cases, as previously mentioned, defoliation can occur, which reduces vigor and growth of the plant.
  • Fungicide applications are rarely warranted due to the fact that the symptoms usually do not appear until late summer. Protectant fungicides are available for homeowners who just have to spray something or for severe cases of this fungal leaf spot. They include (listed by active ingredient): Chlorothalonil, Myclobutanil, Mancozeb, and Thiophanate-methyl. Begin spraying when spotting is first seen and follow the label for repeat applications (usually every 10-14 days).

References

  • Illustrated Genera of Imperfect Fungi. 4th edition. Barnett and Hunter.
  • Diseases of Hydrangea. ACES Publication. ANR-1212. 2001.

Resource(s): Common Landscape Diseases In Georgia

Center Publication Number: 269

Use Summer Oils Safely

Source(s): Mark A. Halcomb, UT Area Nursery Specialist, Warren County Ag. Extension Service.


Summer Oils

A summer oil is a light-weight, highly refined, paraffinic (rather than naphthenic or aromatic) petroleum product that is used as an insecticide and miticide in spring or summer on growing plants. Summer oil is lighter than dormant oil sprays but is still effective on mites and soft-bodied insects. It kills all life stages including eggs, which most miticides will not do. Insects do not build resistance. Summer oil sprays still have a potential to damage desirable plants and effects vary by plant species. Please follow the precautions listed below and on the product label. When in doubt spray only small areas until you are sure of its effects.
The ultra-fine horticultural oils are safer for plants because they evaporate faster and leave less residue. While they are more expensive than some of the dormant oils that also have a summer use rate, the ultra-fine oils are much less phytotoxic. It is also safer to apply oils on bright, clear, sunny days when the humidity is low in order to get faster evaporation. Faster evaporation means less chance of phytotoxicity.

Avoid spraying during prolonged periods of combined high heat and humidity. High humidity slows the evaporation process, which could increase the oil’s phytotoxicity. Apply in the cooler parts of the day. Choose days with lower temperatures and lower humidity.

Thorough coverage is essential and can not be overly stressed. A 2% solution for scale in the summer is recommended. Oil and water separate rapidly. Constant agitation is required. If a sprayer has been idle for a few minutes, be sure to spray into the tank for a minute if using a handgun; or turn an airblast on several feet from the crop, to ensure that the oil is thoroughly mixed . Otherwise, the emulsion in the hose and tips will have separated and the first plants sprayed may receive either pure water or pure oil. The oil will burn.

Plant Reactions

Local grower experience discovered that oil applied during the summer stunted maple growth. I thought the concern on maple was being positive they were dormant before applying dormant oil. It appears that Autumn Purple ash is sensitive. One producer had severe branch and trunk die-back after several applications. A Rutgers University Extension publication lists Japanese maple, ‘October Glory’ red maple, silver, and sugar maple as being somewhat sensitive to oil applications in the summer. It says to reduce the concentration of the oil. Sources vary a great deal on sensitive plants.

Oil-sensitive plants are injured by oils when applied at normal rates under seasonal conditions. Plants classified as displaying a tendency toward sensitivity have not been damaged, but reports of some injuries warrant a cautionary note. Except for eastern black walnut, butternut and some cultivars of cryptomeria, all other oil-sensitive plants can be sprayed with a reduced rate. – Dr. Warren T. Johnson, Professor of Entomology at Cornell University, pgs. 78- 83, Am. Nurseryman mag. Jan 1, 1991 issue.

Oil-Sensitive Plants:

Acer (maple) – Dormant
Carya (hickory) – Dormant
Cryptomeria (cryptomeria) – Any time
Juglans nigra (black walnut) – Any time
Juglans cinerea (butternut) – Any time
Picea glauca var. albertiana (Alberta spruce) – Late summer
Rhododendron (limited azaleas) – Summer
Rubus (bramble) – Summer

Tendency Toward Sensitivity:

Cercis canadensis (redbud) – Dormant
Chamaecyparis (false cypress) – Summer
Fagus (beech) – Dormant
Ilex crenata (Japanese Holly) – Summer, dormant
Juniperus sabina (savin juniper) – Spring, summer
Juniperus virginiana (Eastern red cedar) – Spring, summer
Photinia (photinia) – Summer
Picea abies (Norway spruce) – Dormant
Picea glauca (white spruce) – Dormant
Pseudotsuga menziesii (Douglas fir) – Dormant, flowering time


Center Publication Number: 207

Centipede and St. Augustine Lawns: Choosing an Attractive and Problem-free Lawn

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.


Perhaps the most important factor in developing and maintaining an attractive and problem-free lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area and has the qualities you desire. Centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass are grown primarily in central, south, and coastal areas of Georgia.

Centipede, centipedegrass

Centipede

Centipede Grass(Eremochloa ophiuroides). This is a low, medium textured, slow growing but aggressive grass that can produce a dense, attractive, weed-free turf. It is more shade tolerant than bermudagrass but less shade tolerant than St. Augustine and zoysiagrass. Since centipede produces only surface runners, it is easily controlled around borders of flower beds and walks. It is well adapted as far north as Atlanta and Athens.

Centipede is the ideal grass for the homeowner who wants a fairly attractive lawn that needs little care. Centipede does not require much fertilizer or mowing, and compared to other lawn grasses, is generally resistant to most insects and diseases. It will, however, respond to good management and provide a very attractive turf. Centipede can be established from either seeds or sprigs. Since it is slow growing, it takes longer than bermuda and St. Augustine to completely cover.

Centipede is subject to “decline” problems that can be prevented by proper management. This includes care not to over fertilize, prevention of thatch accumulation, irrigation during drought stress, particularly in the fall, and maintaining a mowing height of 1-1 1/2 inches. Centipede is well adapted to soils of low fertility with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0 but grows best — like most grasses — at a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. For additional information see Cooperative Extension Service Leaflets No. 313, Centipede Lawns, and No. 177, Prevent Centipede Decline.

St. Augustine

St. Augustinegrass(Stenotaphrum secundatum). Compared to finer textured grasses like the bermudas, St. Augustine has large flat stems and broad coarse leaves. It has an attractive blue-green color and forms a deep, fairly dense turf. It spreads by long above-ground runners or stolons. While it is aggressive, it is easily controlled around borders. It produces only a few viable seed and is commonly planted by vegetative means.

St Augustine Grass

St. Augustine is the most shade tolerant warm-season grass in Georgia. It is very susceptible to winter injury and should only be planted with caution as far north as Atlanta and Athens. Perhaps the greatest disadvantage of this grass is its sensitivity to the chinch bug. While insecticides can control this insect, frequent applications are required.

The more common St. Augustinegrass varieties are Bitter Blue, Floratine and Floratam. Bitter Blue has the best shade tolerance but is sensitive to chinch bugs and St. Augustine Decline Virus (SADV). Floratine has the finest leaf texture but is also susceptible to chinch bugs and SADV. Floratam has the coarsest leaf texture, is resistant to chinch bug and SADV, but is not as shade tolerant as the others.


Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 126

Using Gray Water in Your Landscape and Garden

Source(s): Kim D. Coder, Professor of Community Forestry, Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources, The University of Georgia


During times of water shortage, slightly used gray water can provide an alternative landscape irrigation source. Separating slightly used (gray) water from sewage (black water) makes good conservation sense.

Daily, homeowners misuse or waste an average of 33 percent of valuable drinking water. Most of this water misuse is for diluting toilet, sink and laundry wastes and from slightly used sink, shower and laundry water. Every day we use many gallons of drinkable water for purposes like landscape irrigation, which could employ gray water.

Gray water is water that can be used twice. It includes the discharge from kitchen sinks and dishwashers (not garbage disposals); bathtubs, showers and lavatories (not toilets); and the household laundry (not diaper water). Using gray water can almost double home water-use efficiency and provide a water source for landscape irrigation.

Unfortunately, many health regulations consider any non- drinkable water as black water or sewage. Many plumbing and health codes do not accept gray water for reuse because of assumed health risks. NOTE: For the legal status of gray water in your community, county and state, consult your local building codes, health officials, sanitation engineers and pollution control officials.
Gray water has few long-term effects on soil. Gray water slightly modifies soil-organism populations and usually initiates no additional pest problems. Changes that do occur are due to the additional water present. Over-watering and extended periods of soil saturation with gray water can cause severe root problems for plants.

Household levels of bleaches and detergents do not cause problems when gray water is applied to medium and fine-textured native soils. However, when applied to coarse sandy soils with little organic matter, root damage can occur.

Organic matter and soil-texture adjustments are critical in raised beds with gray-water irrigation. Do not use gray water on plants with limited root areas or for hydroponics.

Gray water has few detrimental effects on trees and shrubs growing in native soils. Acid-loving plants, however, can have problems because detergents make water more alkaline.

Tips for using gray water:

  • Make trees and shrubs high-priority watering items because of their individual value.
  • Use gray water when natural precipitation and normal irrigation water are not available.
  • Apply gray water to soil. Never spray on foliage, twigs or stems. Never soak bark or root-collar area.
  • Do not spray edible plant parts or soils where water splash can move gray water onto edible plant parts.
  • Do not use on root or leaf crops consumed by people or domestic livestock.
  • Do not use on new transplants.
  • Do not use on indoor trees or other plants with limited rooting space, in small containers, or plants normally under saturated conditions.
  • Always apply gray water at or slightly below the soil surface. Apply over or under mulch, if present.
  • Avoid using micro or regular sprinkler heads that can blow gray-water aerosols downwind.
  • Be careful of applications that apply gray water directly to leaf surfaces of ground covers and turfgrasses.
  • Control gray-water application and infiltration to prevent standing puddles and surface runoff.
  • Test soil periodically to reveal salt and boron toxicity problems.
  • Gray-water use conserves one of our most precious resources. If managed properly, gray water creates few detriments and many benefits.

Resource(s):

Make Every Drop Count

Xeriscape: Seven Steps to a Water-Wise Landscape

Center Publication Number: 253

Cats and Allergies

Source(s): Jim Howell, Ph.D., Entomologist, The University of Georgia


Cat allergy is by far the most common pet allergy. Five percent to 10% of the general population have a distinct cat allergy and up to 40% of asthmatics are sensitive to cats.

catallergy

Contrary to popular belief, the allergy-causing substance from cats is not cat hair. Although individual cats may produce varying amounts of allergen, there is no relationship between the pet’s hair length and allergen production, and although some will argue the point, there is no such thing as a nonallergic breed.

The cat allergen is found primarily in flakes of cat skin and salivia. Male cats produce more of the allergen than females. It is produced in the animal’s salivary glands and the sebaceous glands in the skin, and because cats love to groom, they deposit this protein on their fur when they lick themselves.

These microscopic allergen particles can remain airborne for a long time. They can be easily inhaled into the nose and lungs, producing an allergic response. Mattresses, sofas and carpets can contain significant allergen particles up to six months after the animal has been removed. These particles also accumulate on walls.

Symptoms

People suffering a serious cat allergy will exhibit almost immediate rhinoconjunctivitis and wheezing upon entering a room that contains a cat. Cat allergy is a common trigger for atopic eczema, an itching , scaling or thickening of the skin. Perennial allergic rhinitis – chronic or recurent sneezing and/or runny nose – is like having year-round hay fever or a permanent cold. It’s important to know that allergies have an immediate (within one hour) and delayed (two hours or longer) component. An asthmatic, for example, might notice a worsening of his or her condition the day after exposure. An asthmatic may sometimes get no acute flareup and will assume he or she doesn’t have a cat allergy. But it is very possible there is ongoing chronic inflammation in the lungs due to ongoing cat exposure.

What To Do

If you have a cat allergy, the best thing to do, of course, is to remove the cat. But many allergic cat owners would rather suffer the consequences than get rid of their pet. If so, try the following:

  • Remove airborne particles as much as possible. Use an air purifier with a HEPA filter.
  • Keep cats out of bedrooms or other spaces where you spend a lot of time, such as a home office.
  • Vinyl or hardwood floors are preferable to carpets because they hold far less cat allergens.
  • Air out the house. Opening windows and using exhaust fans can increase air exchange and decrease airborne allergens.
  • Use a damp cloth to clean walls and furniture.
  • Use a dust or face mask when brushing or cleaning your cat.

Reviewer(s):

  • Lynwood Blackmon, CEA – DeKalb County.
  • Bobby Wilson, CEA – DeKalb/Fulton Counties, The University of Georgia College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Center Publication Number: 240

Using Milorganite® As A Deer Repellant

Source(s): Michael T. Mengak


A growing human population is leading to increased land development. Many home owners maintain gardens and landscapes around their homes. Often, wildlife and humans come into contact with each other, resulting in damage to human property. Often in these cases, intensive deer management is needed.

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Introduction

White-tailed deer provide aesthetic and economic value, but deer can cause a variety of negative economic impacts. Deer can damage personal property, agronomic crops, landscape plantings, and food plots, and they serve as a host for diseases common to livestock and humans. Unlike some nuisance animals (fire ants, termites or rats, for example), deer cannot be casually eliminated when conflicts arise. Landowners are often expected to carry the entire burden of support for this public resource. Deer damage control can be a difficult social and political problem as well as a biological and logistical one. Scare devices, repellents and shooting are all considered effective strategies to control deer damage.

Many homeowners would like an inexpensive but effective control method to safety reduce deer damage. Repellents are often used intensively around orchards, gardens, ornamental plants and agronomic crops. New repellents continue to enter the market, but their effectiveness varies. Success is determined based on the reduction of damage, not total elimination. Repellents generally rely on fear, pain, taste or conditioned avoidance to change deer behavior. Three methods used to deliver repellents: incorporated into the plant (systemic delivery), spread throughout an area (area delivery), and applied to the plant (contact delivery). The effect of repellents varies depending on several factors including deer density, alternate food sources and changes in plant palatability. Milorganite® has been suggested as an area repellent for use in the spring and summer in Georgia to control deer damage. We tested the effectiveness of Milorganite® on ornamental plants. The specific objective of this study was to determine the effectiveness of Milorganite® as a temporary deer repellent when applied to established ornamental plants during the summer.

About Milorganite®

In 1913, the legislature in Wisconsin passed an act to create a sewage commission responsible for cleaning up the waterways. During the same year, a chemist in Birmingham, England, was conducting experiments with the biosludge in sewage. The Milwaukee Sewage Commission adopted this new process for use on December 31, 1919. Jones island, on the shore of Lake Michigan, was chosen as the site of the world’s first large-scale activated sludge treatment plant, the Jones Island Wastewater Treatment Plant. The main purpose of the Jones Island plant was to produce clean water, but they were faced with the problem of disposing of the biosolids left from the activated sludge process. The Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District (MMSD) established a fellowship at the University of Wisconsin College of Agriculture to investigate uses of activated sludge as fertilizer. O. J. Noer was the primary investigator. After experimenting with field crops and vegetables, Noer focused on the use of the organic fertilizer on lawns. Based on his research, Noer concluded that the organic, slow release fertilizer can be safely applied to plants, without the risk of burning, while providing long-lasting results. The trade name, Milorganite®, was derived from MILwaukee ORGAnic NITrogEn. This product is often used for soil amendment purposes rather than as a fertilizer because of the low Nitrogen-Phosphorus- Potassium (N-P-K) values of 6-2-0. The cost 40-pound bag usually runs from $7.00 to $10.00. Milorganite® is commercially sold by fertilizer dealers throughout the United States.

Methods

Research was conducted on the Berry College campus north Georgia. Deer density in the area was estimated by Georgia Department of Natural Resources to be 35-50 deer per square mile. The campus contained two research sites: Campus site and Oak Hill Garden site. At the Campus site, test plants were small and we counted the number of terminal buds prior to planting. Then, at approximately seven-day intervals, we again counted the number of buds to determine the extent of deer damage. The difference in number of buds was an index of deer damage. At the Oak Hill Garden site, the chrysanthemums were larger with abundant buds so we counted those bud bites at approximately seven-day intervals. A bud bite was recorded if the flower bud was removed from the stalk. All bites were assumed to be due to deer. We also measured the mean plant height for each plant at each site.

Campus Site

Chrysanthemums (C. morifolium var. Sunny Linda) were planted in three plots at the Campus site. The plots were separated by about 400 yards. Each plot contained a row of 10 control and 10 treatment plants 1 foot apart. Rows of the control and the treatment plants were separated by 9 feet. Prior to planting, all terminal buds were counted, and plants were assigned to respective locations based on the number of terminal buds. Thus the total initial numbers of available terminal buds were similar for each plot. The treatment plants received an application of Milorganite® equal to 0.25 pounds (4 oz) per plant. Milorganite® was applied the same day of planting to minimize any pre-test damage done by deer. After planting, the number of existing terminal buds/blooms and plant height to the highest terminal bud (in inches) was recorded for 35 days. Milorganite® was weighed and spread by hand around each plant.

Oak Hill Garden Site

The Oak Hill Garden site was planted with approximately 1,000 chrysanthemums among three plots within established formal garden areas. Each plot contained 20 control and 20 treatment plants. Spacing between mums was similar to the Campus site. However, because of the orientation of the formal gardens, distance between respective control and treatment plants was 30 feet at two of the plots and 60 feet at the third site. The treatment plants received application rate of 4 ounces per plant of Milorganite®. Because of the level of plant maturity, we counted the number of bites to terminal flower buds and measured plant height to the tallest terminal bud (inches) for each plant during a 28-day period.

Results

Campus Site

The average number of terminal buds for each plant across the three plots prior to planting was 72.10(treatment) and 72.23(control). The average plant height for all plants was also similar(7.5-8.0 inches). Throughout the 35-day trial, the number of terminal buds that remained on the Milorganite® treated plants significantly exceeded the controls. The presence of a greater number of terminal buds at days 21 and 28 compared to the numbers recorded immediately prior to the opportunity to grow due to limited browsing damage. Average plant height was consistently and significantly higher for the Milorganite® treated mums as compared to respective controls following the initial planting.

Oak Hill Garden Site

The average number of terminal bites was consistently greater on the untreated control plants than on the Milorganite treated plants over the 28 day observation period. While damage recorded as the removal of terminal buds (terminal bud bites) occurred for both treatment and controls, plants treated with Milorganite® had fewer average terminal bud bites. Because of the maturity of the chrysanthemums used at these sites, changes in height would be expected to be more of a function of degree of deer damage as compared to plant growth. While number of terminal bud bites was lower (meaning more buds were unbrowsed) for the treated mums throughout the 28-day trial, average plant height decreased on days 7 and 14 before returning to heights similar to the controls.

Conclusions

From these results, we concluded that Milorganite® has potential as a deer repellent for ornamental plants. Though the repellent did not eliminate deer damage, it reduced the overall impact. The effectiveness of a repellent is highly dependent on climatic conditions, deer density, and resource availability. High deer densities and low resource availability may reduce the efficacy of Milorganite® as a repellent. Reduction of plant damage may further be improved if Milorganite® is reapplied when deer damage is initially observed. Further research involving different application rates and different plant varieties will prove useful in determining the deer’s tolerance level to Milorganite®.


Center Publication Number: 193

Using Milorganite® to Temporarily Repel White-Tailed Deer From Food Plots

Source(s): Michael T. Mengak

 


Wildlife managers use food plots to increase a property’s value to wildlife. These plantings provide supplemental forage to wildlife during periods when native vegetation is less abundant or lacks nutritional quality. Because deer often prefer fertilized food plot plants to naturally available plants, however, over-browsing can damage food plots before they become sufficiently established.

Milorganite40LbBag_0

Deer over-browsing reduces overall production of food plots and often leads preferred plants being replaced by less desirable invasive plants. Managers often blame poor seed or soil quality for food plot failures when deer over-browsing during establishment is the real reason for less desirable results. The only way to ensure that vigorous food plots are available to wildlife during critical periods is to prevent deer over-browsing during establishment. This is particularly true when considering summer food plots because many summer annuals become damaged and die when deer browse during early vegetative growth. Therefore, when deer are abundant on a property, managers are wise to protect summer food plots from browsing until they are adequately established to withstand browsing damage.

Repellents are often used to deter deer damage to orchards, gardens, ornamental plants and agronomic crops. Repellents generally rely on fear, pain, taste or conditioned avoidance to discourage deer browsing. Odor and/or taste-based repellents may be applied to individual plants (systematic and contact deliveries) or spread throughout an area that contains multiple plants (area delivery). New repellents continue to enter the commercial market, but their efficacy varies depending on several factors including deer density, available food resources and seasonal changes in plant palatability. Milorganite® has been suggested as an area delivery repellent for use in the spring and summer in Georgia to control deer damage to multiple plantings.

We tested the efficacy of Milorganite® as an area delivered repellent to temporarily reduce deer damage to soybeans (Glycine max) planted as supplemental summer forage for wildlife. The specific objective of this study was to determine if Milorganite® treatments would provide newly germinated soybean plants with protection from deer browsing until they were sufficiently established to survive damage.

About Milorganite®

In 1913, the Wisconsin legislature passed an act to create a sewage commission responsible for cleaning up the waterways. During the same year, a chemist in Birmingham, England, conducted the first experiments to focus on purifying wastewater containing biosludge from human sewage. The Milwaukee Sewage Commission adopted this new process for use on December 31, 1919. The world’s first large scale wastewater treatment plant was constructed on Jones Island, near the shore of Lake Michigan.

The purpose of the Jones Island facility was to produce clean water from water containing human sewage. Although they achieved this task, they soon realized the difficulty of disposing of large amounts of biosolids, a product of the water purification process. To help solve the problem of biosolid disposal, the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District established a fellowship at the University of Wisconsin College of Agriculture to study the value of biosolid sludge as a fertilizer product. Professor O. J. Noer was the primary investigator. After experimenting with field crops and vegetables, Dr. Noer focused on the value of this organic fertilizer to residential lawns. Based on his research, Dr. Noer concluded that processed biosolid sludge was an effective organic, slow release fertilizer that could be safely applied to a variety of plants.

The trade name, Milorganite®, was chosen for the product. The name was derived from MILwaukee ORGAnic NITrogEn. Today, this product is often used for soil amendment purposes rather than a fertilizer because of the low Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium (6-2-0) components. Milorganite® is relatively inexpensive when compared to other commercially available fertilizers and is distributed by fertilizer dealers throughout the United States.

Methods

Our research was conducted on five properties in the Piedmont Physiographic Region of north Georgia. We did not estimate deer population density but believed deer density on each property ranged from 30-50+ deer per square mile. We did not measure composition of native plant communities or abundance of individual plant species but did recognize that differences might have existed. On each property, we selected two 0.2- hectare plots (control/treatment) separated by 15-300 meters of natural vegetation based on various site characteristics. Before planting soybeans, we applied fertilizer and lime to each plot according to the soil test recommendations provided by the University of Georgia Soil Test Laboratory, Athens, Ga.

Each plot was plowed and smoothed before we used a no-till drill to plant 60 pounds/acre of soybean seeds. When soybean plants began to emerge from the seedbed, we used the seed spreader on a tractor to broadcast 240 pounds per acre of Milorganite® to each plot. Once soybean plants were sufficiently emerged (about 1 inch tall) in a plot, we randomly selected 100 plants from each of five rows (500 plants) as a sub-sample to include in bi-weekly monitoring. We monitored the estimated amount of deer browsing damage to the subsample of soybean plants at each plot. We observed each of the 500 plants on each plot. If the plant had any evidence of browsing or if the plant was completely gone, we scored it as “browsed.” Otherwise, we scored it as “unbrowsed.” We collected data for up to 37 days after first plant emergence.

Results

We observed location related (i.e., property) differences in percentage of soybean plants browsed during the 37-day monitoring period. The mean percentage of plants browsed among the five treatment and control sites 3 days after emergence was 23.9 percent and 54.4 percent, respectively. The treatment sites on days 6, 12, 20 and 30 had an average percentage of plants browsed of 33.3 percent, 40.2 percent, 59.2 percent and 80.2 percent, respectively. On the same days, the control sites (no Milorganite®) had an average percentage of browsed plants of 81.7 percent, 96.6 percent, 99.6 percent and 100 percent, respectively.

Conclusions

We concluded that Milorganite®, when broadcast over newly emerging soybeans, is an effective temporary deer repellent, which reduces negative effects of deer browsing and benefits wildlife food plot establishment. The repellent does not eliminate deer damage, however, and efficacy varies by location. Although we did not measure environmental differences among locations, we believe weather, deer density and alternative food source availability likely influence locationspecific efficacy. Extreme weather conditions coupled with high deer densities and low resource availability may reduce the efficacy of Milorganite® as a repellent. Reduction of deer damage may further increase if Milorganite® is reapplied at day 14, as suggested by the figures 3 and 4. Further research involving different application rates will prove useful in determining the deers’ tolerance level to Milorganite®. Our results suggest that landowners, farmers and sportsmen may be able to establish large-seeded legumes like soybeans in a food plot if Milorganite® is applied at planting but before damage begins. Once the plants are established, further treatment with a repellent is not necessary and soybeans are an excellent food for deer.

Individuals needing more information are encouraged to contact the author by email at mmengak@warnell.uga.edu or by phone (706-583-8096).


Resource(s):
Deer Tolerant Ornamental Plants
Center Publication Number: 199

Using Wood Chips

Source(s): Gary R Peiffer


Powerful tornadoes and thunderstorms often rake across Georgia in the spring. Trees fall, limbs are snapped and landscapes are devastated. After a storm, homeowners, landscapers and tree companies are faced with mounds of wood chips that must be used on site or taken to a local composting facility.

Using Wood Chips

Homeowners may have questions about using chips in their landscape. Here is a collection of pointers from Dr. Kim Coder, Extension Forest Resources Specialist:

  • The use of chips as mulch for shrubs and trees is absolutely their best use. Chips conserve moisture, prevent weeds and grass growing in the root area and keep the plant roots cool.
  • The appropriate thickness of the layer of chips depends on the proportion of “fuses” in the mix. If you hold a double handful of the chip mix in a breeze and let it sift through your fingers, the fines (small pieces of leaves and needles) blow several feet away. The heavy, coarse chips fall to the ground quickly.
  • If there is a high proportion of fines, the chip layer should be 2 inches thick.
  • If the mix is mostly coarse chips, the layer can be up to 4 inches thick.

Homeowners may be worried about the chips poisoning their plants. In scientific terms, this is called “allelopathy”. You are probably aware that black walnut trees prevent many plants from growing underneath their canopy. But walnut chips exhibit very little allelopathy. In fact there is rarely a reason for a homeowner to be concerned with this problem. Only in unusual circumstances do wood chips inhibit woody plant growth. If a chip pile is rained on a few times before it is spread, all of the tannins from oak trees (which might harm willows and shallow-rooted trees) will be washed out.

Use caution before spreading pine chips under pine trees. The chips are strongly attractive to the black turpentine beetle and moderately attractive to the Southern Pine Beetle. It is best to use pine chips under hardwood trees and shrubs. Use hardwood chips under pine trees.

Suggested uses for wood chips:

  • Mulch
  • Parking areas
  • Nature trails
  • Dog runs
  • Playgrounds
  • Soil amendment (if piled in one place to rot for two years)

Resource(s):

Composting and Mulching

Center Publication Number: 21

Carpenter Bees

Source(s): Maxcy P. Nolan, Former Extension Entomologist, College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.


The carpenter bee, Xylocopa virginica (Linnaeus), normally attracts quite a bit of attention in Georgia in late spring and early summer. Since it closely resembles the bumble bee, is quite large and attacks wood around homes, it can become an important household and structural pest.

APPEARANCE

Adult carpenter bees are large, one inch or slightly longer, robust insects. They are blackish in color and possess yellowish hairs mostly on the thorax. The abdomen is shiny black and is bare of hairs on top. This helps distinguish carpenter bees from bumble bees which are similar in size and coloration but bumble bees have yellowish hairs on top of their abdomen.

Carpenter bee eggs, larvae and pupae are seldom seen since they are out of sight in cells within galleries constructed in wood. When wood containing carpenter bees is opened to expose the immature, larvae are legless, white grubs and pupae resemble adults.

DAMAGE

Carpenter bees burrow into the exposed dry wood of buildings, telephone poles, fence posts, etc. causing an unsightly appearance to the wood and structural weakness. They usually choose wood that is soft and easy to work. They seem to particularly prefer California redwood, cypress, cedar, white pine and southern yellow pine. Other woods, even seasoned hardwoods, may be attacked if they have been softened by being unprotected and exposed to the weather for extended periods of time. Bare wood is preferred. Carpenter bees usually avoid well-painted wood and wood with bark on it. Wood with a stain or light coat of paint can be attacked. Also, wood that has been lightly pressure treated with metallic salts for above ground use, such as for decks, could become infested.

Female carpenter bees use their mandibles to bore 1/2 inch round holes into wood. About one inch of gallery is constructed every 6 days. Galleries normally run with the grain for 4 to 12 inches or even further when old galleries are extended.

Female carpenter bees seldom sting but when disturbed or handled they can inflict a painful sting. Male carpenter bees cannot sting but they often become aggressive and frighten people when they fly about their heads.

BIOLOGY AND HABITS

In the late spring and early summer, adult carpenter bees emerge from protected overwintering sites such as old nest galleries. These fertilized females soon begin boring into susceptible wood. After a gallery has been constructed, an egg is deposited with a mass of pollen and nectar. Then the egg with provisions is sealed off with a plug of wood pulp and saliva. The process is continued at the rate of one cell each day until approximately six cells are constructed. Adults then soon die. The larval period extends 30-45 days and the pupal period 14 days. Development form egg to adult requires 5 to 7 weeks or longer depending on temperatures.

CONTROL

There are at least three methods that could be used to control carpenter bees: 1. Aerosol treatments of insecticides applied directly to adult carpenter bees. 2. Residual surface and gallery treatments with insecticides and 3. Preventive treatments such as painting wood with thick coats of oil based or latex paints.

1. Aerosol insecticide sprays labeled for use to control flying insects and bees can be applied directly to carpenter bees. Care should be taken to prevent being stung. The oil based carrier and the insecticide will kill carpenter bees if applied directly to them. A few aerosols are available which have long range capabilities. These could be effective and safer to use than conventional aerosol sprays.

2. Residual applications of insecticides such as permethrin and cyfluthrin sprays can be applied to outdoor wooden surfaces which are being attacked by carpenter bees. An unsightly insecticide deposit could occur on treated wood so care should be taken. Nests or galleries can be treated directly with these insecticides or with others such as carbaryl or deltamethrin dusts that are labeled for carpenter bee control. Carpenter bees will be controlled when they contact the residual insecticide deposit.

Several days following treatment, after carpenter bee activity has ceased, holes can be plugged with dowel rods, plastic wood or with other suitable materials. If carpenter bees continue to attack the wood, additional residual insecticide treatments may be required at weekly or twice weekly intervals.

3. Wood which has been recently painted with oil based or latex paint will not normally be attacked by carpenter bees. Pressure treated wood is often resistant to attacks until it has weather for several years.

If you are looking for organic controls, there are only a couple of options which you can use. Boric acid can be used to control carpenter bees by placing this powder in the area or in the holes they make. Secondly, spraying pyrethrins can be effective, these chemicals are derived from chrysanthemums and are generally not considered to be dangerous.

Professional pest control operators can be especially helpful when carpenter bees are a problem. They are trained and equipped to handle carpenter bee infestations in even the most difficult to treat areas.


Center Publication Number: 23