Over the last several year Mexican bean beetles have been a real problem in the community garden. To complicate matters the mature beetle looks similar to our beneficial lady beetles. This short video gives you the information you need to battle this pest:
Did you know that Japanese Beetles (Popillia japonica) feed on over 300 plant species? Plants in the rose or cherry families seem to be a favorite targets. The first one in my North Georgia garden appeared on June 1st.
In the past gardeners reached for an insecticide to handle the problem. Sevin spray, Carbaryl (1-naphthyl N-methylcarbamate), was a popular choice. However, Sevin is a broad spectrum insectide that kills other beneficial insects! Sevin kills over 100 different insect species, including bees.
If you want to attract the beetles to your garden, add a pheromone trap. You will attract them from all over your area. Seriously, they will bring more beetles to your garden. Maybe you can talk a neighbor into purchasing one!
There is an easier way to handle a Japanese Beetle infestation.
To control the beetles simply pick them off of your plants and drop them in a jar of soapy water. Be aware that they will fly away so act quickly. So practice your technique of grabbing or forcefully knocking the insects into the jar. They will drown quickly.
When I was younger my family planted a fruit orchard. When the orchard was young one of my jobs was to pick off Japanese Beetles and deposit them into a jar of gasoline I carried around the orchard. Wow, the gasoline was not needed. Soapy water works just as well.
Worst case scenario, hang in there. They won’t be around for long!
It is Pollinator Week 2017! Since last year the rusty patched bumble bee has been put on the Endangered Species List and honey bee keepers in the United States reported hive losses of 33% over 2016-17. How can the average Georgia gardener help our pollinators? These steps are easy and will make a real difference to our pollinating insects:
Read Georgia’s Pollinator Protection Plan
University of Georgia entomologists collaborated with stakeholders across the state to develop Protecting Georgia’s Pollinators. There is a role for every Georgia citizen whether you are a farmer, a landscaper, or a homeowner.
Plant Flowering Plants
Adding flowering plants to your food garden attracts pollinators and as a bonus can also attract other beneficial insects. To attract butterflies, adding plants that sustain the caterpillar stage of the butterfly is important. The University of Georgia has done research on pollinator plants and has suggestions for plants that do well in our climate.
Plan for a Succession of Bloom
Strive to have plants flowering as much of the year as possible. Even during the winter months if temperatures rise above 50 F, bumble bees and honey bees are flying and looking for nectar and pollen.
Create a Water Source
Adding pebbles or stones to your birdbath makes a wonderful water source for small insects with delicate legs. By cleaning the birdbath once a week you will avoid any mosquito problems. If you don’t have a birdbath the drainage pans used to catch the water running out of potted plants can be used.
Wisely Use Any Pesticide
Examine your use of any pesticide. Is the pesticide really necessary? Your UGA Extension agent can assist you with any pest situation and guide you in deciding if a pesticide is the best answer. Make sure you thoroughly read and follow any pesticide label. The label is the law.
Have Your Garden Certified as a Georgia Pollinator Space
The Georgia Pollinator Spaces program is an initiative designed to recognize gardeners that consciously make an effort to improve pollinator health by creating pollinator habitat. To get inspiration take a look at some of the gardens that are part of the program.
However you decide to celebrate Pollinator Week be sure to check our daily pollinator posts on the UGA Community and School Garden Facebook page.
Happy Pollinator Week!
Insect scouting is an important part of integrated pest management, whether you are a large scale farmer or just “farm” a 4′ X 8′ raised bed. Here are some hints to help you scout successfully so that you can manage garden insect pests:
Hint #1 Look under plant leaves
Damaging insects often stay on the underside of leaves or in leaf crevices and plant whorls. Check those areas carefully.
Hint #2 Look for insect eggs
Insect eggs are small and by spotting and removing them you limit future damage. Squash bug eggs are a good example.
Hint #3 Confirm insect identification
The majority of insects are not harmful to your plants. Many are actually beneficial and can help you manage pests. If you are unsure of an insect identification contact your local UGA Cooperative Extension office for confirmation. Oftentimes you can send your agent a photo and that is all he/she needs to assist you.
Hint #4 Scout at night
Some insects do their damage at night. Grabbing a flashlight and scouting after dark could yield some interesting results.
With the recent cold damage to the commercial blueberry crop in South Georgia, the blueberries in our community, school, or home gardens are all the more precious this year. As a result, it seems like gardeners are paying more attention to their blueberry flowers. I have gotten several emails asking about slits appearing in the sides of blueberry flowers. This is not unusual and it probably happens every year, gardeners just don’t notice it.
The slits are made by carpenter bees who are “robbing” the flower. They chew slits in the sides of the flowers and get the nectar without having to go into the flower. A result of robbing is that the bees don’t leave or pick up any pollen. Pretty sly bees, right? Research shows that this action still results in some pollination, it is just not ideal. Other bees may use these slits as well to retrieve whatever nectar is left.
Blueberry Pollen is Heavy
Blueberry pollen is heavy and sticky. It does not move around easily and isn’t wind blown. The blueberry flower shape does not lend itself to adequate self-pollination so pollinators are needed even with the self-pollinating types of blueberry plants.
Several native bee species pollinate blueberries including the Southeastern blueberry bee. This bee also pollinates several flower types that bloom at the same time. The male Southeastern blueberry bee has a yellow face.
The smaller native bees are shown to be superior pollinators in these plants. You will also see bumble bees in the blueberry patch. They vibrate their flight muscles inside the flower aiding in pollen exchange, flower sonication. Also, honey bees are often brought into blueberries fields to aid in pollination. To learn more about bees in the blueberry patch visit North Carolina State’s Blueberry Pollinators .
I enjoy pulling up a chair near my blueberry plants to watch the pollinators at work. Try it and you will be amazed at the different insects you see.
If you don’t have blueberries in your community or school garden, why not? They are a fantastic addition to the garden. Being perennial shrubs they add a nice permanent shape to the space. School gardeners should look at later season varieties.
Happy Gardening and I wish you all a very large blueberry harvest this year!
Many community gardeners don’t take advantage of our Georgia winters and finish their garden as the temperatures get cool. As you get ready for the garden break, don’t leave a weedy mess!
A garden plot left full of weeds is not just an eyesore that is unfair to your fellow community gardeners, it can be detrimental to your future crops.
The Weed Seed Bank – don’t make deposits
Weed scientists have a saying:
One year’s seeding means ten years weeding!
If a weed is allowed to produce seed those seeds will happily deposit in your plot to germinate at another time. In weed science terms, you have added to the dreaded weed seed bank. Plant seeds are tough and are a plant’s mechanism for long-term survival.
Some seeds from a legume collected beneath permafrost in the Yukon germinated. The estimated age of those seeds? 10,000 years old!
A sample of seeds dated 237 years old from a British museum herbarium germinated.
Garden Debris Can Create a Welcome Over-Wintering Spot for Pests
Pests like Mexican bean beetles can overwinter in garden debris waiting for your spring planting of bush beans. Don’t give them that extra edge.
What are some alternatives? If you aren’t growing cool-season vegetables, try growing a cover crop. Or, cover your plot with plastic and do some winter solarization. At the very least, clean your plot and add a cover of mulch.
Give next year’s warm-season crops a good start while being a good community garden neighbor.
What is the number one way to combat an insect problem in the garden? Know your pest. The answer is that simple. Correct identification of the pest is essential in any type of garden management.
Step #1 Correct identification
Sadly, I have often seen gardeners find signs of a pest and immediately reach for an overall insecticide without properly identifying the problematic insect. This can be detrimental to your garden. Insecticides can kill insects that are beneficial to your garden, like pollinators and insect predators.
Step #2 Learn about the lifecycle and biology of the pest
Once the pest is correctly identified, a major part of growing organically or using integrated pest management (IPM) is learning about the insect to develop a plan of control. Learn about the life cycle and biology of your pest. Knowing all you can about a pest so you can manage that pest is just common sense.
For example, Mexican bean beetles lay their eggs in garden debris. Knowing that, you can help lessen your bean beetle problems by cleaning up your garden at the end of the summer.
Planting early, using netting, and choosing resistant varieties are all effective strategies that work in pest management IF the pest is known. Too much science for you? Your local UGA Extension agent is the resource to help you. Use his/her entomological skills to make your garden better!
And, remember that when using any insecticide the label instructions are the law!
Happy, pest-free gardening!
This week’s garden mission – eliminate squash bug eggs before they become squash bugs!
Scouting for pests in your garden on a regular basis is a MUST. Scouting alerts you to problems before they get out of hand. This time of the year as you scout among your squash plants you may see squash bug eggs. They are not too hard to spot and should be in a cluster:
If you find an egg cluster congratulate yourself because you can now stop this pest cycle. There are several ways to do this. You could remove this leaf. Or, flick the eggs off the leaf with your fingernail but you run the risk of just moving a viable egg that could eventually become a squash bug. There is an easy way to get rid of these eggs and keep the squash leaf intact.
First, cut a short length of tape. Clear packing tape seems to work very well:
Next, press the tape on top of the eggs. Press firmly and move the tape around a bit. The eggs stick to the tape:
Finally, remove the tape and fold it. Crush the eggs within the folded tape and your potential pest problem is removed. Notice the squash leaf is intact.
If you miss scouting and missed finding the squash eggs, the eggs hatch and these squash nymphs become squash bugs:
An easy chemical-free way to take care of your garden! For more information on growing squash successfully see UGA’s Home Garden Series: Homegrown Summer and Winter Squash.
Wishing you a squash bug-free garden.
They are indeed back. You have probably already seen Japanese Beetles (Popillia japonica) in your landscape. They enjoy munching the leaves of roses, maple trees, cherry trees, peaches and grapes. They actually are a pest to over 300 plant species. A single beetle doesn’t do much damage. Unfortunately once a beetle finds a food source other beetles soon follow. It is the groups of beetles that do real damage.
Japanese beetles first arrived in the United States around 1917. As with many non-native species, in their home country of Japan they are not a major problem. This pest causes damage in the adult beetle stage as well as the larval stage. The larvae, or grubs, live in the soil and can do damage to plant roots.
We often get questions from gardeners about these pests and thought it might be helpful to share them with you:
Do you need to worry about this pest?
The Japanese Beetle season lasts 4-6 weeks, so realize they won’t be around for very long. They are not a major pest of vegetable gardens and generally eat the leave margins leaving a lacy-type leaf. They sometimes also eat petals and can damage fruit.
Do the Beetle Traps Work?
Yes, the beetle traps do work by attracting beetles from all over your area and bringing them to your yard! The traps contain a pheromone, a sex attractant, that can attract beetles that may not have visited your garden on their own.
If you decide to use traps, do not put them in the middle of your garden as you would just be bringing in additional numbers of the pests. Also, the traps will need to be emptied often. The dead beetles give off an ammonia scent that will repel other beetles.
Wouldn’t it be nice if your neighbors put out traps to attract your beetles to their yards?
Is Their a Non-Chemical Control?
Most home or community gardeners can control Japanese Beetles by simply picking the insects off the plants and dropping them in a container of soapy water. By regularly scouting for these insects and removing them, you will prevent any real damage. This is a great job for kids.
What if I Decide I Need an Insecticide?
There are insecticides available to kill Japanese Beetles but realize that the chemicals don’t affect just those beetles but possibly beneficial insects as well. Contact your local UGA Extension Agent for a specific chemical recommendation. As with all pesticides you will want to follow the label directions to the letter.
Wishing you a Japanese Beetle free garden!
Are you especially concerned about mosquitoes this summer as you work in your garden? Do you wonder how to care for your bird baths so that your birds are happy but you are not creating a breeding pond for mosquitoes? We had the opportunity to talk with University of Georgia’s mosquito specialist, Elmer Gray, and asked him for some research-based mosquito information.