Gil Landry

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

Proper cultivation of turfgrasses is essential in order to produce an attractive, healthy lawn.

Cultivation of turfgrasses includes vertical mowing, core aeration and topdressing. These operations reduce surface compaction and thatch accumulation, improve soil aeration and water infiltration, and promote root growth. All these benefits are essential to producing vigorous, healthy turf.

Vertical mowing or dethatching helps keep turfgrasses healthy by removing the dead vegetation from the thatch layer. This dead vegetation is lifted to the surface by the blades of the vertical mower. Vertical mowing can be done in early spring just before green-up occurs or when the grass is growing rapidly, yet not so hot that water requirements are high. Take care not to remove too much of St. Augustine and centipede grass lawns because they do not have underground runners.

Core aeration relieves soil compaction and increases air and water movement into the soil. It also stimulates thatch decomposition. Proper aeration is best accomplished by a power aerator, which has hollow tines or spoons so that it removes a soil core 2 to 3 inches deep and 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter. Aeration is best accomplished during period of active plant growth and when the soil is moist enough to allow deep penetration. Aeration, which is also called coring, should only be used to correct soil problems and not as a routine practice.

Topdressing is a management practice used to aid in the decomposition of thatch, to reduce surface compaction, and to smooth the surface. Topdressing involves spreading a thin layer of topsoil or other soil mix on the soil surface. It is often used to cover the planted material in planting operations. The topdressing material should be of similar texture and composition as the underlying soil. Topdressing rates may range from ½ to 2 cubic yards of material per 1000 square feet. This will produce a layer from 1/8 to 5/8 inch thick. However, it is important that distinct layers are not formed. The topdressing is usually worked into the turf by dragging, raking or brushing.

Fertilization after cultivation operations stimulates rapid turfgrass recovery and promotes a healthy, vigorous turf. These operations can be done at the same time if needed. However, neither dethatching nor aeration should be done during a period of heavy weed germination or appropriate weed control measures will be necessary.

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 134

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

Perhaps the most important factor in developing and maintaining an attractive and problem-free lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area and has the qualities you desire. Cool-season species are better suited to northern areas of the state.

Cool-season grasses grow well during the cool months (60 degrees-75 degrees F) of the year. They may become dormant or injured during the hot months of summer.

Tall Fescue(Festuca arundinacea). Perhaps the most popular grass in the mountain and upper piedmont areas of Georgia is tall fescue. This is a perennial bunch-type grass that grows rapidly and requires frequent mowing in the spring and fall. Tall fescue needs more water than the warm-season grasses to stay green during the summer. It is quickly established from seed and grows well in full sun as well as moderate shade. Tall fescue will tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, but like most turfgrasses grows best with a soil pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Lawns planted in tall fescue tend to thin out and become “clumpy” thus requiring reseeding every three or more years.

Kentucky-31(K-31). Kentucky 31 is the old, common cultivar or variety of tall fescue grown in Georgia. Most of the new cultivars referred to as “turf-type” tall fescues have slightly narrower leaf blades, slower vertical growth rates, greater density and shade tolerance than K-31. As a result, if properly managed, most turf-types will produce a better turf than K-31. More information can be obtained from Cooperative Extension Service Leaflet No. 354, Tall Fescue Lawn Management.

Kentucky Bluegrass(Poa pratensis). Kentucky bluegrass has a medium leaf texture and a bright, pleasing color. There are many varieties which grow well in and north of the upper piedmont areas of Georgia. Kentucky bluegrass can become semi-dormant during hot weather, and grows best in a fertile soil with a pH of 6 to 7. While it does best in partial shade, it will grow in open sun if adequate moisture is present.

Ryegrasses. Perennial ryegrass (Lolium perenne) and annual ryegrass (Lolium multiflorum) are suited for temporary cool-season turfgrasses throughout Georgia. They can be used as a temporary winter cove on new lawns that have not been permanently established. Ryegrasses are also used for overseeding, that is, to provide a green cover on a warm-season grass during the winter. However, overseeding may damage the warm-season grass unless managed correctly in the spring because the ryegrass competes for moisture, sunlight and nutrients.

There are many varieties of perennial ryegrass, and depending upon the environmental conditions, they may behave as an annual or perennial. As its name suggests, annual ryegrass dies as summer approaches. It is also known as common, winter, domestic, Oregon, and Italian ryegrass.

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 128

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

Perhaps the most important factor in developing and maintaining an attractive and problem-free lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area and has the qualities you desire. Centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass are grown primarily in central, south, and coastal areas of Georgia.

Centipede

Centipede Grass(Eremochloa ophiuroides). This is a low, medium textured, slow growing but aggressive grass that can produce a dense, attractive, weed-free turf. It is more shade tolerant than bermudagrass but less shade tolerant than St. Augustine and zoysiagrass. Since centipede produces only surface runners, it is easily controlled around borders of flower beds and walks. It is well adapted as far north as Atlanta and Athens.

Centipede is the ideal grass for the homeowner who wants a fairly attractive lawn that needs little care. Centipede does not require much fertilizer or mowing, and compared to other lawn grasses, is generally resistant to most insects and diseases. It will, however, respond to good management and provide a very attractive turf. Centipede can be established from either seeds or sprigs. Since it is slow growing, it takes longer than bermuda and St. Augustine to completely cover.

Centipede is subject to “decline” problems that can be prevented by proper management. This includes care not to over fertilize, prevention of thatch accumulation, irrigation during drought stress, particularly in the fall, and maintaining a mowing height of 1-1 1/2 inches. Centipede is well adapted to soils of low fertility with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0 but grows best — like most grasses — at a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. For additional information see Cooperative Extension Service Leaflets No. 313, Centipede Lawns, and No. 177, Prevent Centipede Decline.

St. Augustine

St. Augustinegrass(Stenotaphrum secundatum). Compared to finer textured grasses like the bermudas, St. Augustine has large flat stems and broad coarse leaves. It has an attractive blue-green color and forms a deep, fairly dense turf. It spreads by long above-ground runners or stolons. While it is aggressive, it is easily controlled around borders. It produces only a few viable seed and is commonly planted by vegetative means.

St. Augustine is the most shade tolerant warm-season grass in Georgia. It is very susceptible to winter injury and should only be planted with caution as far north as Atlanta and Athens. Perhaps the greatest disadvantage of this grass is its sensitivity to the chinch bug. While insecticides can control this insect, frequent applications are required.

The more common St. Augustinegrass varieties are Bitter Blue, Floratine and Floratam. Bitter Blue has the best shade tolerance but is sensitive to chinch bugs and St. Augustine Decline Virus (SADV). Floratine has the finest leaf texture but is also susceptible to chinch bugs and SADV. Floratam has the coarsest leaf texture, is resistant to chinch bug and SADV, but is not as shade tolerant as the others.

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 126

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

Proper watering of turfgrasses is essential to producing an attractive, healthy lawn.

Many factors influence the amount and frequency of water needed for a home lawn. Soil type, type of grass, management level, frequency of rain, temperatures, wind and humidity all affect the amount of water needed. High level maintenance and hot, windy days tend to increase the demand for water, while low level maintenance and cool, cloudy days tend to decrease the demand for water.

The best time to apply water is just before wilt occurs. Most grasses appear a dull bluish green, the leaf blades begin to fold or roll, and footprints remain after walking over the area when the grass is under water stress. If dry conditions continue, the grass wilts. Begin irrigation on that portion of the lawn which first exhibits these signs.

Apply enough water to soak the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This is usually equivalent to about one inch of rainfall. For most sprinklers, this means leaving the sprinkler in one spot for 2 to 3 hours. Do not apply until runoff occurs. If water is being applied faster than the soil can absorb it, either move the sprinkler to a new location or turn it off and allow the existing moisture to soak into the soil. To test your sprinkler output, place seven open-top tin cans under the sprinkler.

Prior to sunrise is considered the best time to water because of less wind and lower temperature. Research indicates water losses at night through irrigation are 50 percent less than during midday irrigation. Studies also indicate that irrigating after dew develops on a turf will not increase disease problems. However, irrigating prior to dew formation or after the dew has dried from the morning sun and/or wind extends the period of free surface moisture and may enhance disease development.

Irrigation is one maintenance practice often done wrong. Light, frequent waterings produce shallow, weak root systems. The shallow root system prevents efficient use of plant nutrients and soil moisture. Roots grow only where the soil is moist; they do not seek out water.

The key to success in irrigating home lawns is to condition the grass to get by on as little extra water as possible. The best way to do this is to develop a deep rooted grass. Listed below are several simple rules which will help develop a deep rooted turfgrass which is more able to withstand drought conditions.

• Select a grass which is well adapted to your locations.
• Water as infrequently as possible. At the first sign of wilt, irrigate, not before.
• Apply enough moisture to drench the soil 6 to 8 inches deep.
• If the soil becomes compacted or crusted, loosen it so that water can penetrate to the proper depth.
• Raise the height of cut during stress periods, and mow more frequently.
• Use a sprinkler that gives a good even distribution of water at about 1/4 to 1/3 inch per hour.
• Fertilize lightly in the summer months.

For more information refer to Cooperative Extension Leaflet No. 399, Turfgrass Water Management.

Resource(s):
Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 133

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia.

Perhaps the most important factor in developing and maintaining an attractive and problem-free lawn is to choose a grass that is adapted to your area and has the qualities you desire. Zoysiagrasses are grown throughout Georgia.

Zoysiagrass (Zoysia Spp)

Several species and/or cultivars of zoysiagrasses are available in Georgia. Most are adapted to the entire state and form an excellent turf when properly established and managed. For the best appearance, most zoysias require cutting with a reel mower, periodic dethatching, and more frequent irrigation than other warm season turfgrasses. The zoysias form a dense, attractive turf in full sun and partial shade, but may thin out in dense shade. Most zoysias grow very slowly when compared to other grasses. They usually are established by sodding, plugging, or sprigging.

The zoysiagrasses are (1) slow to cover completely, thus more costly to establish; (2) less drought-tolerant than Common bermudagrass; and (3) recommended for lawn use only when the homeowner is willing to provide the required maintenance.

, also called “Z-52,” is an improved selection of Zoysia japonica. It has medium leaf texture, good cold tolerance, and spreads more rapidly than the other zoysiagrasses.

This is the zoysia often advertised as the “super” grass in newspapers and magazines. These advertising claims are true in part, but do not tell the entire story.

Emerald zoysia is a hybrid between Zoysia japonica and Zoysia tenuifolia that was developed in Tifton, Georgia. It has a dark green color, a very fine leaf texture, good shade tolerance, high shoot density, and a low growth habit. Emerald will develop excess thatch rather quickly if over fertilized and its cold tolerance makes it more susceptible to winter injury from the Atlanta area and north.

El Toro is a relatively new zoysia that was developed in California and looks like Meyer. El Toro is the fastest growing zoysia, tolerates mowing with a rotary mower, and produces less thatch than Meyer.

Newer cultivars grown in Georgia:

• Cavalier zoysia is a vegetatively reproduced and is suitable for sports fields, golf course fairways, tee boxes and home lawns. The variety is patented and must be sold as certified grass by licensed growers.
• Companion zoysia is one of the newer zoysiagrasses that can be planted by seed. It is intermediate in growth habit between Meyer and the more open-growing, coarse leaf types of common zoysia.
• Empire zoysia has broaderleaves, is more aggressive than Meyer or El Toro and is available through licensed growers only.
• Empress zoysia is finer bladed than Meyer but not as fine as Emerald Zoysia, is suited for use in home lawns, golf courses, parks and sports fields and is available through licensed growers.
• Palisades zoysia is a vegetatively reproduced zoysia that is suitable for home lawns, golf fairways and roughs. The variety is patented and must be sold as certified grass by licensed growers.
• Zenith zoysia is one of the few seeded cultivars and has a leaf texture slightly coarser than Meyer. It is intermediate in growth habit, taller than Meyer and shorter than the common types. It is adapted for golf course, athletic field and residential use.
• Zeon zoysia is a vegetatively produced zoysia that is fine textured like Emerald Zoysia but produces less thatch. Zeon was ranked higher in turf quality than Emerald or Meyer in a national study and is available through licensed growers.
• For more information see Cooperative Extension Service Leaflet No. 395, Zoysiagrass Lawns.

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Center Publication Number: 127

Source(s): Gil Landry, PhD., Coordinator – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia

Bermudagrass lawns are grown throughout Georgia. Bermudagrasses (also called Bermudas) grow vigorously during the warm months (80 degrees-95 degrees F) of spring, summer and early fall and become brown and dormant in winter.

Bermudagrasses(Cynodon Spp). All bermudas thrive in hot weather but perform poorly in shade. Bermudas spread so rapidly by both above-and-below-ground runners that they are difficult to control around flower beds, walks and borders. If fertilized adequately, they require frequent mowing. The bermudagrasses are adapted to the entire state and tolerate a wide soil pH.

Common Bermudagrass(Cynodon dactylon). Common bermudagrass,commonly planted by seed, is drought resistant, grows on many soils, and it makes a good turf if fertilized and mowed right. Common bermudagrass produces many unsightly seedheads, but in spite of this fault, it is frequently used on home lawns due to the ease and economy of establishment. Common bermuda may be planted from either seed or sprigs and with intensive management will provide a high quality turf. However, the newer hybrid bermudas are generally far superior. Newer and improved seeded bermudagrasses include Princess 77, Riviera, Yukon and many others.

Hybrid Bermudagrasses. Compared with common bermuda, these grasses have more disease resistance, greater turf density, better weed resistance, fewer seedheads, finer and softer texture and more favorable color. They also produce no viable seed and must be planted by vegetative means.

The hybrids also require more intensive maintenance for best appearance. Frequent fertilization and close mowing, edging, and dethatching are needed to keep them attractive.

All of the improved bermudas described here have been developed and released cooperatively by the University of Georgia Coastal Plain Experiment Station and U.S. Department of Agriculture. They are products of the grass breeding program of Dr. Glenn W. Burton, Principal Geneticist.

Tifway(Tifton 419) Bermudagrass. Tifway has several outstanding features that make it an ideal turf for lawns and golf fairways and tees. It has a dark green color and stiffer leaves than Tifgreen. Tifway is more frost resistant than other bermudagrasses. Therefore, it will usually remain growing and green longer in the fall and will develop color earlier in the spring. This trait, along with its ruggedness, has led to its use on football fields.

TifSport is an improved hybrid with similar texture and color of Tifway. However, TifSport has superior cold hardiness when compared to other available hybrids and provides a high-density grass when mowed at 1/2 inch. The variety has shown mole cricket non-preference in side-by-side comparisons to Tifway.

Tifton 10 is a bermudagrass that originated in Shanghai, China. It is vegetatively propagated, sheds pollen but produces few seed. Foliage is coarse texture with a natural dark bluish-green color. It rapidly reproduces from stolons and above ground stems which limits weed invasion. Tifton 10 is suited for roughs, roadsides, athletic fields, commercial landscape areas and lawns.

Other older varieties of bermudagrass include Tifgreen, Tifdwarf, and Tifway II.

Resource(s): Lawns in Georgia

Reviewer(s): Ellen Bauske, PhD., Program Coordinator and Randy Drinkard, Technical Writer – UGA Center for Urban Agriculture, The University of Georgia. April 2008.

Center Publication Number: 125