Follow herbicide label to avoid killing landscape plants and trees

phenoxy herbicide damage to willow oak trees2 Pugliese
Phenoxy herbicide damage to a willow oak tree. Image credit: Paul Pugliese.

Paul Pugliese is the agriculture & natural resources agent for the University of Georgia Extension office in Bartow County.

An herbicide designed to kill weeds in turfgrass can also kill neighboring trees and shrubs.

Herbicides in the phenoxy chemical class provide broadleaf weed control in lawns, pastures and hay forages. Some of the more common chemicals in this class include 2,4-D; MCPP; dicamba; clopyralid; and triclopyr.

Safe for animals but not always for trees and shrubs

These chemicals are considered very safe and leave very few toxicity concerns for animals. In fact, many of these herbicides are labeled for pasture use and allow for livestock to continue grazing without any restrictions.

Phenoxy herbicide damage to a willow oak tree. Image credit: Paul Pugliese.
Phenoxy herbicide damage to a willow oak tree. Image credit: Paul Pugliese.

However, pesticide labels should always be read and followed to determine if any special precautions should be taken for specific site uses.

Phenoxy herbicides provide selective weed control, which means they control many broadleaf weeds without causing damage to grass. Of course, each product is a little different and some are labeled for very specific turfgrass types, depending on their tolerance.

The label should be checked for application to a specific lawn type (tall fescue, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, etc.). If the turfgrass isn’t on the label, don’t assume the herbicide can be applied to all lawns.

Unfortunately, phenoxy herbicides don’t discriminate between dandelion weeds or any other broadleaf plants, including many trees and shrubs. So, it’s very important to take extra precautions when applying these herbicides near landscaped areas with ornamental plants.

Wind and rain can spread herbicides

Consider the potential for drift damage to nearby plants and avoid spraying herbicides on a windy day. There is also the potential for movement of these herbicides through runoff and leaching in the soil. This is why the product label usually warns against spraying within the root zone of trees and shrubs and never exceeding the maximum application rates listed on the label.

Many homeowners and landscapers often overlook these label precautions. The information that is contained on the label can seem somewhat vague to inexperienced applicators.

The biggest misconception concerns where the root zone of a tree or shrub exists. The roots of mature trees and shrubs actually extend well beyond the drip line of the canopy. Research shows that absorption roots may extend as much as two to three times the canopy width.

Consider spot-spraying to target individual weeds rather than broadcasting applications across the entire lawn. And never exceed the labeled rate.

In landscapes that contain mature trees and shrubs, phenoxy herbicides may not be the best choice for weed control. These herbicides may be best reserved for wide-open spaces such as athletic fields, parks and pastures where tree roots are at a safe distance.

The high potential for herbicide damage to trees is another great reason to protect tree roots by providing a mulch zone that extends well beyond the drip line of the canopy. If you’re not trying to grow a manicured lawn underneath a tree, then there is no reason to apply phenoxy herbicides there for weed control.

Use the right herbicide for the job

Another way to avoid potential damage is to rely less on phenoxy herbicides. Other classes of herbicides have less potential to affect the roots of nearby trees and shrubs. Take the time to identify your weeds and choose a more selective herbicide rather than combination products that usually contain multiple chemicals in the phenoxy class.

Many pre-emergent herbicides can prevent weed problems in lawns. The key is to apply them at the correct time in spring and fall. Applying too early or too late often provides inadequate weed control and requires additional herbicide applications. Rotating pre-emergent herbicide classes will avoid the potential for resistant weeds. Also, be sure to apply water to the area according to the pre-emergent herbicide’s label to activate it in the soil.

For more information about the effects of phenoxy herbicides on landscape trees and shrubs, view the UGA Center for Urban Agriculture webinar at ugaurbanag.com/webinars. For assistance with weed identification and specific herbicide recommendations, contact your local UGA Extension office at 1-800-ASK-UGA1 or visit www.Georgiaturf.com.

You can also watch an online webinar on Effects of Phenoxy Herbicides on Landscape Trees and Shrubs by Paul Pugliese.

Is it okay to apply herbicides to lawns during green up?

Tim R. Murphy. Retired UGA Weed Scientist

Rank growth of winter annual weeds occurs at the same time that warm-season turfgrasses begin to green-up, or emerge from winter dormancy. These weeds compete with the turfgrass for soil moisture, nutrients, growing space, but most importantly for sunlight. Warm- season turfgrasses, with the exception of St. Augustinegrass, are not highly shade tolerant. Thick mats of winter weeds will shade the turfgrass at a time that root carbohydrates are being exhausted by the green-up process. Additionally, thick mats of winter weeds shade the turfgrass and decrease photosynthesis. The net result is a weakened, or less dense stand of turfgrass, that is readily infested by summer annuals such as crabgrass.

Purple Deadnettle, Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft. Bugwood.org
Purple Deadnettle, Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft. Bugwood.org

Preemergence herbicides

Research has shown that the preemergence herbicides, such as Balan, TeamPro, Surflan, XL, Ronstar and many others, that are used for summer annual grass control do not significantly affect the spring green-up of labeled warm-season turfgrasses. A possible exception is Pennant (metolachlor). There have been some significant delays in the green-up of hybrid bermudagrass with Pennant applications to dormant turf.

Postemergence herbicides

The situation with postemergence herbicides is dramatically different. Most postemergence herbicides will slightly delay the early spring growth of warm-season turfgrasses. These delays can range from a few days to a few weeks.

In the event of an overdose (an extremely high rate), delays in spring green-up can occur for a longer period of time. Usually, the turfgrass will completely recover within two to six weeks with proper cultural management.

With the exception of Image, most postemergence herbicides can safely be used during green-up. Some slight delay in green-up may be noted; however, this effect can be lessened by:

  1. Using the lowest recommended rate
  2. Insuring that the application equipment is properly calibrated
  3. Using spot treatments
  4. Following all recommended cultural practices, fertility, irrigation, etc. to promote rapid spring growth.

The use of postemergence herbicides should be avoided during the spring green-up of turfgrasses that have been poorly managed, or that are experiencing winter injury problems. Properly maintained, healthy, vigorous turfgrasses are more tolerant to postemergence herbicides than turfgrasses that have not been properly maintained or are suffering from winter injury.

Some postemergence herbicides state on the label “Do not apply during spring green-up.” Obviously, these products should not be used at this time of year. However, the use of other postemergence herbicides is warranted if there is a severe weed infestation on properly maintained turfgrasses. The slight delay in green-up from the use of these herbicides is more than compensated for by the removal of competition that dense mats of weeds exert on the turfgrass.

As always – read and follow all pesticide labeling directions!

Get updated on fire ant baiting

Get updated on fire ant baiting

Article written by Mike Merchant, Texas A&M Agrilife Extension Entomologist, in his blog Insects in the City

Fire ants remain the most prevalent outdoor ant pest in most areas of the southern U.S.  Throughout the U.S. we estimate the annual cost of fire ant control at over $6 billion.  But the cost of this pest goes far beyond measurable dollars.  Fire ants reduce the recreational value of our parks and backyards, disrupt wildlife populations, and send thousands to emergency rooms each year from their painful stings.

So as we get ready to enter fire ant season, it may be a good time to bring yourself and your staff up to speed on fire ant control. Many people are surprised to learn that fire ants are not an especially difficult pest to manage, once the biology and control tools are understood.

One of the best places to learn about fire ant management is the eXtension fire ant website, a place where the best information about fire ant is assembled by Extension agencies throughout the South. This information was recently summarized and presented in an informative webinar by Dr. Fudd Graham, fire ant specialist with Auburn University.   Dr. Graham focuses on fire ant biology and use of baits for fire ant control.

It’s worth knowing something about how fire ant baits work because they are the most economical, ecologically friendly, and effective control methods for fire ants. The webinar will provide you or your technician with an hour of training that should pay for itself many times over.


 

Mike Merchant is an entomology specialist for Texas AgriLife Extension. He works with pest management professionals, school facilities managers, extension volunteers, researchers and other extension professionals. His areas of specialty center on research on insects affecting man including spiders, scorpions, fire ants, termites and others. His program also focuses on training school maintenance professionals in principles of integrated pest management (IPM). His goal is to make schools healthier, cleaner places to study and live.

Sidney B Meadows scholarship application now available

Meadows Scholarship 1

For more info visit the Sidney B Meadows Scholarship website

We invite you to apply or advise a horticultural student of the benefits of this scholarship. Scholarships are awarded, through a competitive process, administered by a selection committee based on academics, character, determination, probability of a career in horticulture, and financial need.

In 2014, twelve $1,500 scholarships were awarded, totaling $18,000. The number and amount of scholarships awarded each year is determined by the board of directors based on the fund’s income (interest and dividends) from the previous year.

Scholarship applications for the 2015 year a now available. Deadline for application is May 29th. Selections will be made by July 1, and recipients will be notified soon thereafter. Awards will be made July 22 in Atlanta during SNA2015.

Please refer to the eligibility requirements, and download the 2015 Application below, or call the Fund office at 678.813.1880 to receive an application via email attachment, fax or regular USPS mail.

Visit the Sidney B Meadows Scholarship website

Severe weather chances increase as we move into spring

Taken from the CASE website

Now that spring is here and warmer, more humid air is entering the US, severe weather and tornado chances are increasing across the country.  There is an excellent animation that shows how the region of severe weather occurrence moves around the country at the NOAA Storm Prediction Center.   The area of most likely severe weather moves north and south with the area of greatest temperature contrast and most active storm track as the sun’s angle changes over time.

The Weather Channel has also provided a series of bar graphs which show the monthly probability of tornadoes for over 40 cities around the country (link).  From the graphs you can see that the Southeast has a split severe weather season, with the major peak in spring and a secondary peak in late fall.

For answers to every question you can ask about tornadoes, check out the tornado FAQ from the Storm Prediction Center.

And make sure you have access to real-time severe weather warnings via smartphone app or NOAA weather radio, especially if you are working outside on high-risk days.

 

severe-prob-3-16-2015-from-spcATL-tornado-by-month-TWC 

Cooking with Georgia Kale and Seth Freedman

Chef Seth Freedman at work.
Chef Seth Freedman at work.

Chef Seth Freedman is a Southern man with New York chef training.  That can be the best of both worlds!   He still cooks with his grandmother’s cast iron skillet but using advanced culinary techniques.

Owner of Forage and Flame, Seth specializes in catering for groups large and small.  He enjoys educating people about cooking locally grown food.  In addition to Forage and Flame, Seth is a partner at Peach Dish where you can order fresh ingredients with recipes and have them delivered to your home for preparation.  And, Seth loves his greens!

Recently he shared a kale recipe at the Georgia Organics conference.  For those of us who are not kale lovers, we were impressed.  I asked Seth if I could share the recipe and tips and he happily said “YES!”.

Kale and Apple Salad

1 bunch of kale

2 TBSP apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tsp honey

2 apples (crisp and sweet)

salt and pepper to taste

1.  Remove stalks from the kale and discard them.  Wash leaves and slice them thinly.

Massaging the kale is the most important step in the recipe.
Massaging the kale is the most important step in the recipe.

2. Dice apples into 1/4 inch cubes.

3. In a large bowl, mix vinegar with honey and ground pepper.  Drizzle in the 1/4 cup of olive oil while whisking.  Pour dressing into another container.

4.  Add kale and a small sprinkle of salt to the large bowl.   Using your clean, bare hands massage the kale with the dressing left on the sides of the bowl. Seth says to squeeze them so that you are actually bruising or breaking the greens a bit.  Squeeze, mash, massage – really get in there.  This helps take some of the bitterness out of the greens and is the secret to this recipe!

5. Pour the rest of the dressing over the kale and add the apple dices.  Adjust seasoning, toss and serve.

Seth says that really any Georgia grown green will work in this recipe – mustard greens, collards – whatever you have growing in your garden plot.  Remember the squeezing, mashing, massaging is the key!

image copyLet us know if you prepare this recipe and what you think of it.  If you would like to contact Seth you can reach him at seth@peachdish.com.  Thanks again, Seth, for sharing your expertise!

Happy eating!

 

 

 

When do we expect the last frost?

Taken from the CASE website and written by Pam Knox, University of Georgia Agricultural Climatologist

Now that March is upon us and the atmospheric pattern has shifted into something that is bringing more spring-like weather to the Southeast, it’s time to think about planting.  And that means thinking about the last frost of the winter.

AgroClimate has a tool which shows the last frost date by county for the Southeast.  The 50 percent map shows the average date for the last frost, while the 10 percent map shows the date that one in ten years will see a frost, and the 90 percent map shows the date for which in just one out of ten years the last frost will come early (or in other words, in 9 out of 10 years the last frost will come later than this date).  The maps below show the dates for 32 F.  You can find the tool athttp://agroclimate.org/tools/Freeze-Risk-Probabilities/.



   

If you need the information for a different temperature threshold, then a good source of information is the Southeast Regional Climate Center.  You can go to their web page www.sercc.com and pick “Historical Climate Summaries” from the “Climate Data” menu at the top.  Pick your station and then look for “Spring Freeze Probabilities” on the left menu.  Here is the graphical output for Tifton, GA.

tifton-spring-freeze-probabilities-sercc

What this shows is that for Tifton, for a temperature of 32 F (orange line) at the 50th percentile (for the average date), the date is about March 10.  You can click on the link for tabular data to get a table of numbers instead of the graph shown here.  Keep in mind that this is for the period of record for the station, and that last dates for spring freeze have been trending earlier in the season in recent warm years.  If you have a different source of freeze information that you like to use, please let us know!

Late Season Annual Bluegrass Control in Residential Turfgrass

Clint Waltz and Patrick McCullough, Turfgrass Specialist and Weed Specialist, University of Georgia

Annual bluegrass - Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft., Bugwood.org
Annual bluegrass – Robert Vidéki, Doronicum Kft., Bugwood.org

Annual bluegrass (Poa annua L.) is a troublesome winter annual weed in residential turf. Compared to most turfgrasses, annual bluegrass has a lighter green color, coarser leaf texture, and produces unsightly seedheads.

Annual bluegrass seed germinates throughout the late-summer and early-fall once soil temperatures drop below 70° F. Seedlings grow and mature in fall, overwinter in a vegetative state, and produce seed in spring. A second germination can occur in late-winter as soil temperatures rise and the days become longer.

Annual bluegrass is a prolific seed producer and individual plants may produce hundreds of viable seed, even when closely mowed. Annual bluegrass flowers over several months in spring and produces seed that may remain dormant in soil for years before germinating. Annual bluegrass often dies from summer stresses but may survive in protected sites that receive irrigation. Controlling annual bluegrass in mid- to late-spring in residential lawns can be difficult.

Annual bluegrass can produce seeds even when closely mowed. Image - John Kaminiski
Annual bluegrass can produce seeds even when closely mowed. Image – John Kaminiski

Control in bermudagrass and zoysiagrass

Up until mid-February (when the bermudagrass was fully dormant) applying a glyphosate containing product (e.g. Roundup) was an option for postemergence annual bluegrass control. Even then, care must be taken not to “overdose” the weed and harm the bermudagrass. Applicators commonly over-spray the weed with glyphosate and some herbicide moves deep into the bermudagrass canopy where it contacts green bermudagrass stolons near the ground. Any green part of the plant in the bermudagrass can absorb the glyphosate which can damage the plant.

It is now too late and risky to consider spraying glyphosate to control annual bluegrass in dormant bermudagrass. While bermudagrass may still look “completely” dormant it is starting to greenup and the application of glyphosate during greenup can damage the turf. Do not apply glyphosate to dormant grass of any type other than bermudagrass since other grasses never really go completely dormant and may be damaged by the herbicide.

There are a few selective herbicidal options to control annual bluegrass at this point in the season. In bermudagrass and zoysiagrass, if the annual bluegrass population is bad enough the best option is treating with either Revolver (foramsulfuron) or Monument (trifloxysulfuron).

Control in centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass

Neither of these herbicides is labeled for use on centipedegrass or St. Augustinegrass. In centipedegrass and St. Augustinegrass, atrazine containing products are an option but large annual bluegrass grass plants are difficult to control with a single application.

The weed is an annual cool-season grassy weed that will die-out in a couple months as temperatures warm. For now, having patience and tolerance maybe the best option. Plan for next winter and spring. Begin with good turfgrass cultivation this summer. For example:

  • Deep and infrequent irrigation encourages turfgrass root development which improves the ability of the lawngrass to compete with weeds.
    • Identify and alleviate soil compaction since annual bluegrass prefers compacted soils. For rapid recovery and improved vigor, core aerifications should be performed during the active growth period of warm-season turfgrasses.
    • Mow the lawn at the appropriate height for the grass species. Lower mowing heights may stress turf and reduce its ability to compete with annual bluegrass. For proper mowing height recommendations, visit www.GeorgiaTurf.com
    • Lastly, begin a preemergence herbicide program in late-summer to help control the seed that were deposited this season.

Landscapers can help homeowners with controlling annual bluegrass now and planning a healthier lawn to prevent annual bluegrass next year.

Ambrosia Beetles begin flying in Jan and Feb!

Will Hudson, UGA Extension Entomologist

 Asian or granulate ambrosia beetles are tiny (<1/8″) wood-boring insects that attack the trunks of young and weakened trees and shrubs. Ambrosia beetles tunnel into stems and construct galleries where they raise their young. Beetles carry on their bodies a fungus that grows in these galleries producing ambrosia which feeds both adults and larvae. Ambrosia beetles can also carry the spores of disease pathogens that infect the tree. The growth of these fungi can lead to weakening or death of the tree.

Ambrosia beetle sawdust 'toothpicks' - Byron Rhodes, UGA, Bugwood.org
Ambrosia beetle sawdust ‘toothpicks’ – Byron Rhodes, UGA, Bugwood.org

As ambrosia beetles tunnel, they push sawdust out through their entry hole. This sawdust can cling together forming short ‘toothpicks’ sticking from the infested stem. These toothpicks make it easy to identify ambrosia beetle attacks.

Wind or rain may destroy these toothpicks leaving just the small holes and scattered sawdust from the beetle. Since the entry holes are only about the size of a #2 pencil lead, close inspection is necessary to detect these attacks in time to treat. Ambrosia beetles attack many types of trees and shrubs including crape myrtles, cherries, oaks, sweet gums, pecans, peaches and others.

The ambrosia beetle’s first flight occurs with mild weather typically in February but possibly as early as January. Cold weather will put them off for a while, but we usually see a big emergence of the granulate ambrosia beetle ranging from February in south Georgia to early March in north Georgia.

Young trees in nurseries and trees that have been in landscapes for less than three years old are vulnerable to attack even if they are not obviously stressed. This is especially true during the green-up period. Prompt action can save these trees if the number of attacks (“toothpicks”) is less than 4 – 5 per tree.

Growers of nursery trees and shrubs, as well as landscapers with new trees, can apply a spray to protect vulnerable trees. The spray should be repeated every 10 – 14 days until the plants are completely leafed out.

If applied in time, pyrethroid insecticides can repel the beetles even after plants are attacked. Pyrethroids like permethrin (Pounce, Astro), Talstar, Decathlon, or others will work. Once the trees have leafed out completely, they are less attractive to the beetles unless the trees are under stress. Prevent stress to shrubs and trees to lower chance of ambrosia beetle injury.

Spray affected trees, being careful to cover the trunk completely. Monitor the trees for signs of wilting of the new leaves, a sign that a pathogen has been introduced. Once the wilting starts, the tree will probably die. Do not assume the attack will be fatal, since trees may recover. Also watch treated trees to see if new toothpicks develop – a sign that the ambrosia beetles are still active.

Nursery trees that are attacked should be sprayed and separated from the rest of the block (if possible), and watched closely for signs of wilting. Nursery trees that are attacked but don’t wilt may not need to be destroyed. If they leaf out and seem healthy and no further toothpick formation is noted, then the small holes will heal quickly and leave no permanent damage.

If you see toothpicks on larger trees, the tree is probably severely stressed. If attacks are confined to one limb, pruning is an option. If the attacks are on the main stem, prepare to remove the tree if it dies.

Considering the history of this pest in Georgia, there is a good chance that any given nursery or landscape will suffer little or no damage and spraying will not be necessary. Watch susceptible trees or shrubs closely for beetle attacks.

Traps can be used to monitor the activity of this pest. For more information on constructing Ambrosia beetle traps see Activity Monitoring in this publication.

Prune liriope and pampus grass in late winter

liriope MSWTwo ornamental plants in the landscape that are commonly sheared are liriope and ornamental grasses such as pampas grass. Shearing in late winter removes old growth and makes way for new shoots.

Liriope

Annual removal of liriope foliage is not a necessity; however, cutting back is desirable if severe winter injury to the foliage has occurred. Running a lawn mower over the plants is a practical means of removal. Hedge shears may be a more practical means for large individual clumps.

In Georgia, new growth often begins to emerge in February and March; therefore, prune earlier or plan to cut back high to prevent injury to the new shoots.

Severely pruning mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) is not recommended.
Severely pruning mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus) is not recommended.

Mondo grass (also called monkeygrass or Ophiopogon) redevelops slowly after severe pruning. Do not shear these plants.

Homeowners and maintenance personnel often neglect fertilizing lilyturf and thus do not obtain maximum vigor. A broadcast application of a general lawn or shrub fertilizer in early spring and again in mid-summer should be adequate to maintain the desired vigor.

Dwarf pampas grass Image - Jeff Webb
Dwarf pampas grass Image – Jeff Webb

Pampus grass

Prune pampas grass annually to remove the previous year’s foliage and make way for new growth.  Pruning is best done in late winter, prior to the new growing season. Use hedge shears, lopping shears or power pruners to cut the plant back close to ground level. Be sure to wear a long-sleeve shirt and gloves when pruning to protect yourself from the sharp leaf blades.

After pruning pampas grass, apply a light, broadcast application of a complete fertilizer, like 8-8-8 or 10-10-10, to help stimulate new growth.

This is edited from these publications – where you can find more information.

Liriope Culture in Georgia 

Pampas Grass

Care of Ornamental Plants in the Landscape